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Posted: 5/21/2013 9:49:20 PM EDT
| I want to build a 10.5" SBR for use with a suppressor. Is the Noveske Switchblock worth getting or should I just use a standard gas block? |
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My 10.3 SBR runs fine with a normal low-pro gas block suppressed and unsuppressed (SDN-6). That's because (I assume) you're running a .308 can on a .223 rifle. There is so much room around the smaller bullet as it exits that you're not going to get any gas blown back in your face. Switch to a proper .223/5.56 can on a .223/5.56 rifle and you can have some problems which the switchblock is supposed to prevent. To the OP, I still haven't decided myself if I'm going the switchblock route, but if you have the money why not get it? If you don't need it simply turn it to regular gas flow position and it's like it's not even there...but if you ever need it, it's there to use and regulate the excess gas. |
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My 10.3 SBR runs fine with a normal low-pro gas block suppressed and unsuppressed (SDN-6). That's because (I assume) you're running a .308 can on a .223 rifle. There is so much room around the smaller bullet as it exits that you're not going to get any gas blown back in your face. Switch to a proper .223/5.56 can on a .223/5.56 rifle and you can have some problems which the switchblock is supposed to prevent. To the OP, I still haven't decided myself if I'm going the switchblock route, but if you have the money why not get it? If you don't need it simply turn it to regular gas flow position and it's like it's not even there...but if you ever need it, it's there to use and regulate the excess gas. Good point. Yet another point in favor of running my sdn6 on my 556 guns. |
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From my own experience, the socom cans are just as gassy an experience as my other cans. The ROF with the socom cans is right about the same as my other cans.
* I tested this on my 416 (10.4") with a transferable lower. So I have no experience with DI uppers and the socom cans |
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My 10.3 SBR runs fine with a normal low-pro gas block suppressed and unsuppressed (SDN-6). That's because (I assume) you're running a .308 can on a .223 rifle. There is so much room around the smaller bullet as it exits that you're not going to get any gas blown back in your face. Switch to a proper .223/5.56 can on a .223/5.56 rifle and you can have some problems which the switchblock is supposed to prevent. To the OP, I still haven't decided myself if I'm going the switchblock route, but if you have the money why not get it? If you don't need it simply turn it to regular gas flow position and it's like it's not even there...but if you ever need it, it's there to use and regulate the excess gas. I've run a Surefire on a 10.5" barrel and didn't meet any problems. Mag dumps with M193 or MK318 didn't gas me out, burn my eyes, etc. and it functioned just fine. |
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From my own experience, the socom cans are just as gassy an experience as my other cans. The ROF with the socom cans is right about the same as my other cans. * I tested this on my 416 (10.4") with a transferable lower. So I have no experience with DI uppers and the socom cans Very interesting, and great info! I run a Surefire 556-212, and the SB is not something I would want on a can with even 1% less backpressure. |
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To the OP, I still haven't decided myself if I'm going the switchblock route, but if you have the money why not get it? If you don't need it simply turn it to regular gas flow position and it's like it's not even there...but if you ever need it, it's there to use and regulate the excess gas. Money is not the problem, it is the lack of rail choices. I want to be able to have an extended carbine length or mid length modular rail and since the switchblock will not fit under a mid length, my choices are limited to extended length carbine rails with FSB cutouts. Modular rails made like this are even more rare. I was thinking about either the Samson Evolution 7" EX or the YHM TJ Competition Carbine. Not sure if the switchblock will fit in either of these cutouts though. |
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Also look at the Innovative Arms W.A.R. uppers. Same concept, more handguard options. Noticeably cuts recoil and gassing on my 11.5. Very interesting. Thank you for pointing this out. My biggest question would be ammo usage- It says only quality 5.56 ammo should be used. Is quality .223 ammo o.k.? What is the concern? Dirty, cheap ammo clogging up the valve? |
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Please check out my patent pending adjustable gas block at http://micromoa.com
Use a bullet to adjust the regulator. Works with most rails. Uses an un-modified standard gas tube, unlike the Noveske swithblock or the WAR receiver both of which use proprietary gas tubes. Modular so you change regulator plates for various gas systems, barrel lengths, calibers. 
It has been adopted by Legion Firearms. Below is a pic taken at the 2013 Shot Show. 4 out of 6 of the rifles in that picture are using the MicroMOA adjustable gas block. All rails were un-modified. Knights URX, Geissele Noveske NSR. Setup in the top left corner is their new .308 using the Govnah modular adjustable gas block. 
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My 10.3 SBR runs fine with a normal low-pro gas block suppressed and unsuppressed (SDN-6). That's because (I assume) you're running a .308 can on a .223 rifle. There is so much room around the smaller bullet as it exits that you're not going to get any gas blown back in your face. Switch to a proper .223/5.56 can on a .223/5.56 rifle and you can have some problems which the switchblock is supposed to prevent. To the OP, I still haven't decided myself if I'm going the switchblock route, but if you have the money why not get it? If you don't need it simply turn it to regular gas flow position and it's like it's not even there...but if you ever need it, it's there to use and regulate the excess gas. Probably true. I don't get any gas in my face on my 8.5" 300blk upper either. |
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Probably true. I don't get any gas in my face on my 8.5" 300blk upper either. With 556/223, there is big difference in back pressure when going from un-suppressed to suppressed. For 300BLK, there isn't as much a difference when switching from un-suppressed to suppressed. The big difference is when switching from subsonic to supersonic. See the link below for testing we did with four different BLK configurations: http://micromoa.com/?page_id=496 
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Thanks Amphibian. This also gives me something to think about. If installed under a rail, would rail removal be required to take the regulator plate out for clean/lube? Yes, you would have to remove the rail to swap plates but I honestly don't see a need to do that from a maintenance perspective. See the video's on my site. Heavy full auto fire was performed with corrosive 5.45 and it doesn't get stuck since a small amount of gas is allowed to escape. When you don't let the gas go anywhere then carbon build up will occur. We do recommend that if you are not going to be moving back and forth from suppressed to un-suppressed to occasionally move it. Drop a little oil in there just like any other moving part. Thanks! |
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I posted a range report about my recent build with a Micro MOA Govnah here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_20/400109_Micro_MOA_Govnah_and_Huntertown_Arms_Kestral_556_Combo.html
I am running a 16" Midlength barrel and a 15" Seekins SPR3 rail. No issues with clearance between the Govnah and the SPR3 and I can access the regulator plate from either side. 
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Thanks Amphibian. This also gives me something to think about. If installed under a rail, would rail removal be required to take the regulator plate out for clean/lube? Yes, you would have to remove the rail to swap plates but I honestly don't see a need to do that from a maintenance perspective. See the video's on my site. Heavy full auto fire was performed with corrosive 5.45 and it doesn't get stuck since a small amount of gas is allowed to escape. When you don't let the gas go anywhere then carbon build up will occur. We do recommend that if you are not going to be moving back and forth from suppressed to un-suppressed to occasionally move it. Drop a little oil in there just like any other moving part. Thanks! My results with a Noveske SB are that you DO NOT LUBE IT or you WILL glue it in place and need the wrench. Further, yes, it does get glued in place, BTDT, had to use FireClean and the wrench and twist on it a good bit to free it up. Lube bad. Should have followed directions. That said, your product is indeed totally different. Just throwing this out there mainly for SB owners, and also because your advise is the same as Noveske's in that "It won't get stuck...but move it so it won't get stuck". Yes. By all means. Move it often! |
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I have two Noveke Switchblocks on their 12.5 and 11. 5 inch stainless barrels. It's effect is more pronounced with these shorter barrels.
When using an AAC M4-2008 you slow the bolt velocity vs. un suppressed, thereby eliminating those bolt over base FTF from overrunning the follower. You also get less gas thru the gas tube, resulting in cleaner innards. Of course the amount of fouling coming from the chamber is allways going to be greater with the can on, but overall the suppressed gun runs cleaner with the SB engaged. I find that the Vltor A5 system deals with the bolt velocity issues nicely even without a SB, but the system runs nicer with the SB. Cleaner too. The downside is that a SB setup costs about $180, and unless you shoot suppressed most of the time it may not be worth it. Jorge |
| That's a pretty nice setup, sbr-kam. It looks like the Noveske 10.5" upper I was looking at. I don't have any quality machine shops around me though, that's why I was looking at rails with the FSB cutout. I don't know if the switchblock will fit in a FSB cutout though, it looks a bit wider. |
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