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Posted: 9/24/2006 12:41:04 PM EDT
from this thread... just asing here because people might not be monitoring the MD HTF for this sort of thing. Please don't DUPE police this until after I start getting some responsed in one of the threads.  Just went to a local indoor range. Used up some Wolf 147grain (not in the suppressor) before switching to the Federal American Eagle 147grain subsonic... I wanted to use that Wolf trash up. I attached the suppressor to my Glock 17 first. Put about 60+ rounds through it before taking it off to put on my Cx4 Storm. Yes it was hot. I sprayed some water on it to cool it down before using my shirt to screw it off. I meant to bring an oven mit but I forgot about it. Won't mae that mistake again. When it was cool enough to handle I unscrewed/removed the rear cap, pulled out the piston and driving spring and replaced the drive spring with the fixed barrel weapon spacer. I put the rear cap back on the silencer body and attached the can to my Cx4 Storm and went to town... probably about 200 rounds. Let it cool down and then tried to take it off, and .... THE BITCH AN COMING OFF!!! I did everything it could to get it off but it ain't moving. At first I thought it was the heat. Now I'm wondering something else since it's completely cooled down. I had no problem threading it on and off either weapon prior to shooting. When I took the rear cap off to swap out the drive spring for the fixed barrel weapon spacer I didn't notice any (removable) pins of any sort, but some guy came over while I was reloading mags and asked if I lost something. It was some sort of pin, but it looked more like a pin for a Glock. I didn't think anything of that until just now. When I try to screw the can off it looks like the piston (the part that threads on) doesn't budge, but the tube and rear cap moves slightly leading me to believe I fucked up bad when I put everything back together. I'm guessing I'm going to have to wrench it off right at the base/thread point. Any suggestions that might help me avoid totally messing this thing up? ETA: Update 1: I looked at the boolet and don't see anything about any pins so I'm ruling that out for now. Since the rear cap was somewhat looe I managed to unscrew that while the piston remained attached to the barrel. By doing this I was able to completely remove the silencer body from the piston. The rear cap is still around the piston. I don't now if it normally should but it doesn't slide any more than maybe an 1/8 inch or so down on the piston before it stops. I don't now if it should be able to slide completely off past it or not while on a barrel. If it did I might be able to put a rod or something through the holes in the piston and try grr'ing it off that way. But the space is in the way right now. Looking into the silencer body to see the "alignment tab" that thing looks shorter than in the picture... like it's worn down or stripped. Don' t know how this could have happened, but it might be part of the problem. Still not sure WTF to do. What a flipping mess.  
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| The nubbin that locks into the detents into the threaded bit if not very pronounced. I suspect you got it hot, it expanded you tighten it up, it cools and shrinks not sticking. I would use some kroil and torque, then some heat from a torch and more torque. Worst case now if you break something is only a cheap booster part. |
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I would try heating the assembly that remains on your barrel -- then trying again to remove it. I have had to heat suppressor threaded parts before to get them off the barrel and I have used a blow dryer. If that does not work, I would call AAC on Monday or post the question on another board that they access to respond to your question. One other unpleasant possibility is cross-threading -- but if you screwed it on carefully this seems unlikely. Dave Brown |
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Would a heat gun work if I don't have a torch? I am pretty certain I didn't cross-thread it. It screwed all the way down, it doesn't look canted and there wasn't any baffle strike or anything scary like that. I'll try the heat thing tomorrow. I'm afraid to put anything with teeth on it, but that's about all I have. I don't think a strap wrench would get enough of a grip on the end of the piston. There's only about 1/2-3/4 of an inch to get on. |
Are you saying when I shot it on the Glock, then took it apart, reassembled it, then shot it again that when I reassembled it the "nubbin" might have expanded enough that it didn't fir between the notches in the piston? I'm not sure about that. The rear cap wouldn't have screwed all the way down if it wasn't seated properly... I'm assuming. And it seems like that it what it grabs on in order to keep the body from spinning independant of the piston... Madness... |
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that "nubbin" fits in the scallops on the end of the piston. You can see that it is not a perfect air tight fit. Some radial play is normal, in fact it is quite noticeable. You didn't mess anything up. Just clean both of your hands of any grease or oil, then muscle the can off. If it doesn't go then you can go to the vice for the barrel. You really shouldn't need a strap wrench, but it won't hurt if you use it in an educated manner. |
It is still probably ok to swap hot, just remember to remove the can from the barrel while everything is still hot. Dave Brown |
The booster/chamber on the Evolution 9 is built in solid 1 tube, nothing to screw loose like on a modular system. The booster piston comes out and you change it for different thread pitches to match your gun. Or replace the spring with a solid spacer for fixed barreled guns. And for cleaning of the moving parts. |
The Evo silencers come with a tool used to unscrew the rear booster cap. Once the back is off the can the piston and spring can be removed for cleaning. This also allows a user to very easily change the piston for one with a different thread pitch. Swap the spring for a fixed barrel adapter (FBA) spacer and run the silencer on a fixed barrel weapon. Most people think this modularity is of great benefit. I keep a small container of parts for my ARs in my range bag, so that is also a convenient place to store my extra Evo pistons, FBA and the disassembly tool. For the ability to use the one silencer on a variety of host weapons, I don’t think having a few extra parts in a parts bin is such a big deal.  You make a good point about designs that limit the amount of unintentional/accidental user damage. That is one reason most silencer manufacturers don’t want the user to be able to access the baffles. Short of cross-threading the Evo end cap, there isn’t much the user can do to mess up the can. And if cross-threading the end cap is of concern, the user will probably also have difficulty just mounting the can on the host firearm. Mark |
I think if you saw how it all goes together, you'd realize it's pretty nifty. You have an endcap, a piston, and a spring. They're all fairly big parts, and nothing's prone to flying off the can and getting lost downrange or anything like that. |
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I guess it can't be that hard to get right considering this is the first post I've seen where someone had a problem. I think it's neat to be able to have the flexibility but even moreso for the flexibility to be in the form of a separate piece like with Gemtech's Trinity, no? That seems most ideal. |
And FWIW, I've had to use them on both my Evo45 and my Gemtech MK9K (for different reasons).
How does it work on the trinity? I've shot one but haven't owned one. |
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Soak the threading in oil as much as possible. A thin penetrating oil is best. Let it sit a bit to get into the threads. Then using heat and a vice or strap wrench you should be able to unscrew it. Suppressors sometimes get stuck on thread mounts due to carbon and fouling being forced into the threads. |
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