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Posted: 8/17/2012 12:18:09 AM EDT
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I have a Model 94 Legacy 30-30 that has a few spots of rust on the barrel. I have always tried to keep this rifle in a gun sock and inside a zippered sleeve and I have kept a light coat of gun oil on it. My dad mistakenly took it to a friend of his' house instead of a .22 I had traded to the guy. I think while it was there it was left out uncovered in his garage and may have had something scratch the barrel. Anyhow it now has a few rust pits on it. I have doused the spots in gun oil and lightly brushed them and got some of it off, but there it still rusted metal in there. Im afraid to do much more to it without taking it to a gunsmith or some good advice. Right now it is in my gun safe in a sock with a fairly heavy coat of oil (break free preserve) on the spots and all of the metal parts. I took it out of the zippered sleeve because I though it might be part of the problem, it was supposed to be water resistant. The safe has a silica bag in it as well. This was my first rifle, I value it more than any of my other guns.
Any thoughts? Is there anything more I can do to it or should I take it to a gunsmith? TIA |
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Quoted:
use fine steel wool...it will knock it right out. I just used it on a Savage Model 93 and a Win Model 94. I've even used it to take Krylon off of a Leupold scope I purchased, didn't scratch or scuff a thing on it...easy stuff. Absolutely. An SOS pad or fine steel wool will work. If you're worried about the finish of the rifle use a little oil while you lightly scrub the rust spots. |
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I don't like steel wool. I've seen too many guns that had the bluing damaged with it.
Here's what I used in the shop. First, do just what you've already done, which is to apply something like CLP Breakfree or Kroil to the rust and let it soak a few days. This will penetrate the rust and loosen and soften it. After soaking apply more then scrub the rusty areas with a brass "toothbrush". This will remove the rust without any chance of damaging the remaining blue. If you have larger, crusty areas, make a BRASS scraper from sheet brass or by flattening a BRASS cartridge case and filing the edge sharp. Use this chisel type scraper to scrape the area, using plenty of CLP. With the rust off, you'll have some pitting and missing blue where the rust was. There's nothing to be done about this short of a full re-blue job. Keep a coat of CLP on the metal and this will continue to "work" on any remaining rust and will prevent further rusting. Some notes: DON'T use a penny or nickel. These are no longer made of real copper or nickel and will damage the bluing. NEVER, EVER store a gun in any kind of case. These are notorious for causing guns to rust. The best way to store a gun is in a gun case with a dehumidifier or where air is free to circulate around it. Don't store a gun in a closet. When you put clothes in the closet after laundering them they're never totally dry. The moisture will rust guns. |
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Thanks
I was using a brass brush and lots of oil when I tried it the first time. I was scared I was going to mess up the blueing around the rust spots so I stopped. Ill try the fine steel wool and some more brass brush. I guess this is something ill have to work at a little at a time. I keep my guns in gun socks, does enough air pass through those to keep the moisture off of them? My safe has a silica bag in it and they all have at least a light coat of oil on them. I dont want to take them out of the socks because I have ammo and other stuff in my safe and I dont want anything getting scratched while im digging through it. |
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Quoted:
use fine steel wool...it will knock it right out. I just used it on a Savage Model 93 and a Win Model 94. I've even used it to take Krylon off of a Leupold scope I purchased, didn't scratch or scuff a thing on it...easy stuff. I like 0000 steel wool. Just don't do too much rubbing. |
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Quoted:
Thanks I was using a brass brush and lots of oil when I tried it the first time. I was scared I was going to mess up the blueing around the rust spots so I stopped. Ill try the fine steel wool and some more brass brush. I guess this is something ill have to work at a little at a time. I keep my guns in gun socks, does enough air pass through those to keep the moisture off of them? My safe has a silica bag in it and they all have at least a light coat of oil on them. I dont want to take them out of the socks because I have ammo and other stuff in my safe and I dont want anything getting scratched while im digging through it. It doesn't matter if the air passes through the socks, if the air is damp. And the silica bag in your safe needs CONSTANT monitoring to assure it doesn't get damp and stop protecting your guns. You must regularly check the silica to make sure it is protecting your guns. Here's an extreme example of silica gone bad: I had my S&W model 27 sitting on a rag on a metal shelf in my Homak gun cabinet. There was a jar of silicone dessicant next to it. I left it there, unattended, for a few months. When I opened the safe I found that the silicon jar had filled with water, overflowed, and wet the rag my Model 27 was lying on... ruining the finish. It was so badly rusted you could feel the rust with your fingernail, and the cylinder would not turn by pulling the trigger. I had to have it refinished. I now use a gun safe heater. I am now thinking that a 10 watt light bulb would do the job, as well as lighting the safe. |
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