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Posted: 1/14/2008 3:52:45 AM EDT
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I have been shooting for as long as I can remember, but never bought a firearm. My 18th is coming up and I plan on doing the deed. I'm really looking at the SIG556's, but also AR15s. The only problem is that there are so many different damn AR15s, modifications and everything, it's a bit over whelming for a newbie. The only thing turning me away from a SIG right now is the short barrel, I would prefer 20". I plan on going and handling one pretty soon, since I have never held a SIG. I know you all have plenty of suggestions, but I'd like to keep it under $1600. Any first timer favorites? |
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Build an AR, stock up on mags, ammo and shoot it a lot. I like the way the sigs look but I feel it’s over rated, but that’s just me. Check out the build it your self forum under ar-15 building is so much cheaper and you can pick and choose what you want on there. Bought a factory built gun for my first AR. Then come to find out, I could have built the same thing for under 600 bucks easily. |
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Get one of those bargain bin rifles for $600 or so - then shoot the hell out of it since the finish is already "broken in" for you. Once you get an idea of what you like or don't like on the rifle, you have use your remaining $1200 for swapping parts and - more importantly - buying a few magazines and plenty of ammo to shoot with. No need for the wiz-bang stuff just yet. FWIW, my first rifle was a RRA HBAR 16". It showed me that I loved the 16" length, but hated the weight of the HBAR and the plastic feel of the standard M4 stock. Now I have two gov. profile barrels with magpul CTR stocks - but this MY preference and not necissarily going to be worth the money for YOU. Start out simple, then experiment over time with what you realistically think will work for your intended purpose. |
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I'll give the opposite advice. Buy a nice factory AR with a full warranty for your first, then dream about building. Rock River Arms has a great selection of 20" guns, check out their website. I'd recomend a flat top with a removable carry handle, because phase two will have you yearning for an optic! Don't know jack about Sigs, don't care for the goofy plastic though. |
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As a first rifle and die hard SIG 556 lover, I suggest getting an AR with a warranty. How much you want to pay, features you desire, and potential use will help you determine what model and features you need. Even if you bought a basic stock flat top AR, after shooting it some you will have an excellent idea of what you want to add to it. You can also do the same with the 556, only the options are typically more expensive and less of them. The piston system is very clean and definitely NOT maintenence dependent. If you are OK with cleaning guns, I think the AR dissassembles more easily than the 556, but is harder to clean. |
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Buy a stripped lower and build your own 20 inch AR. Should be able to do this for <$800 no problem. Buy a good cleaning kit, magazines and ammo. Depending on how many mags and ammo you want you can easily blow the rest of your budget. I would also get a .22 rifle to hone in your marksmanship skills. It will save you alot of money in the long run. |
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I can't imagine doing that! I can only find $600 lowers! What should I look for? I'll do some checking around, and post what I find here for the yea or nay. You guys think you could do that for me? *edit* CMMG SST 18" M18 Rifle Length SPR Thats what I'm looking at for my first buy now. Seems like it has what I want, and like suggested has an A3 top so I can put some nice optics on when I get more money. |
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Congratulations on making the right choice to become a responsible gun owner. Seeking the advice of others instead of making an uninformed decision shows you are a smart person. I would have to concur with those who suggest purchasing a new AR type rifle. You will certainly appreciate it. A basic 16" barrel AR rifle from Bushmaster is what I would personally suggest. However, LMT, RRA, Colt, and others are comparably reliable. Just a basic AR with the removable carry handle would suit you fine. 
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I have 2 ARs RRA 16" carbine w/ collapsable stock. Colt AR15-A2 (green label box) that I got in 1989 when they were cheap. Both are excellent, but the RRA is my favorite. Get a RRA. My colt is a collector I suppose because they dont make em anymore and was mfg before Colt got all screwed up with political correctness. For everyday shooter go with RRA or maybe Bushmaster which I understand is great also. |
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I have 2 ARs RRA 16" carbine w/ collapsable stock. Colt AR15-A2 (green label box) that I got in 1989 when they were cheap. Both are excellent, but the RRA is my favorite. Get a RRA. My colt is a collector I suppose because they dont make em anymore and was mfg before Colt got all screwed up with political correctness. For everyday shooter go with RRA or maybe Bushmaster which I understand is great also.  |
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I can only find $600 lowers! Don't buy any lower that costs that much! You can buy a complete STAG M4 carbine for that...... CMMG and the others mentioned above will not be a disappointment. I do like the magpul CTR stock though and you might as well go with a barrel that has a 1:7 twist rate given the choice. |
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you seem to have already made a good choice, but as far as options go look at: barrel length: contrary to common thought, has no direct effect on accuracy, but the longer the barrel=the higher the velocity=the less time to drop or be influenced by wind. I like 16" barrels for better handling, but you seem set on an 18". which is not a bad compromise between velocity, and handeling barrel profile: thinner barrels will be much easier to shoot when not at a bench, but VERY slightly less accurate, especially when hot. the standard M4 profile is the bastard child of a midweight and a pencil barrel, it can also take bayonets. I prefer pencil barrels (sometimes called a thin or lightweight) for better handling on carbines, but you may want a midweight for a longer range rifle. you can also go with a flutted midweight or heavy bull barrel to try and get the best of both worlds. (it is lighter from the fluting, but retains much of the original stiffness) barrel composition: stainless steel is the most accurate, but least durable. chrome moly is almost as accurate, and very slightly more durable (could be mistaken here). chrome LINED, is going to be the least accurate, but last the longest. barrel twist: 1:7 is going to be better for heavier (77gr) bullets, while 1:9 is going to be better for lighter bullets, and is better with a larger range of bullets. chamber: a .223 chamber is not recomended for use with cheap milsurp 5.56 bullets, but will be more accurate with .223 bullets. a 5.56 chamber can shoot .223 and cheap 5.56. get a 5.56 unless you are shooting competition. receivers: not much difference between receivers, but some guns use milled receievers, which are very slightly weaker, but arguably can have tighter production tolerance. I wouldnt worry to much about this, but being OCD I only like forged receivers (upper and lower) Bolts and carriers: some people preffer colt bolts because they go through more rigourous quality control. some companies try and sell you coated bolt carriers. it is BS. mostly. most coatings will eventually wear off, and dont hold oil as well. if you decide to go chrome, make sure that it has been heat treated to eliminate hydrogen embrittlement. chrome can make cleaning quicker, as carbon doesnt stick to it as well. extended charging handle/bolt release/magazine catch: can be usefull, but can also get in the way. buy normal ones first and then decide if you really want it extended. triggers: many people like the RRA 2 stage triggers (which have a longer take up stage, and then a crisp break stage). I personally like a stock single stage worked over by bill springfield (he does quick work for very affordable prices, and with reduced power springs, it has a very light crisp break). there are also some high dollar aftermarket units available, but I would start with the factory trigger worked over by Bill, or the RRA 2 stage. upper style: I think you made a good choice with a flat top, much better for mounting optics, and you can always add a detachable carry handle front sights: you bassically have 3 options, a standard fixed sight (my preferance for ruggedness). a rail, which allows you to mount a detachable flip up, or a fixed flip up. if you plan on using optics under 3x, you might want a flip up sight, so that you dont see it. honestly it never bothered me, and with magnification above 3x, you wont even see a fixed sight. stock: a fixed stock is much better for long range shooting, and is more comfortable recoiling. a collapsible stock can cut off 5 or so inches when fully collapsed, and can help get a more comfortable length of pull. I really like my CTR collapsible stock, but If you are building a long range target gun I would recommend a fixed stock, especially with a cheek riser to get a more consistent sight picture through a scope. there you go. hope I didnt miss anything. I reccomend you go to several area gun stores and handle some rifles before making the plunge. the length and profile of the barrel can make a HUGE difference in how a rifle feels. the stock and sight set up, can greatly affect the handling charecteristics as well. 10$ in gas is well worth saving yourself from a 800$ mistake. ETA: almost forgot the M4 feed ramps. some shorter guns use less steep feed ramps that extend farther down. this was added to the M4 to improve feeding. some people swear by them, others say they are useless. I personally look for them in my rifles. |
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