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Posted: 2/20/2005 12:09:49 PM EDT
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I have a barrel and other assorted parts on my Mossberg 500 shotgun I want to Parkerize. Just received my Brownell's catalog #57. Where do I start? Any sites for help? How do I do a barrel with out damaging the bore? Thanks. |
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When i did my FAL i used corks from the local Aubachon. The front one fit pretty good, the back one took a little cutting/fitting. Of course a 12 guage will neccesitate a larger cork, but i think it should work. Just hammer 'em in there tight and when you're done screw a bottle opener (or anything) in there and yank em out. It doesn't matter even if you destroy 'em, their job is done. |
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Stainless steel tanks. One will need a heater element that will heat up to about 190*. You will need to find manganese phosphate solution, add it at a 8-1 ratio. 8 gallon distilled water-1 gallon parkeizing solution. Add 0000 steel wool till it won't dissolve anymore when the solution is heated to 190*. The steel wool gives the finish its dark color. The more steel wool, the darker the finish. You will need a sand blast cabinet. Do not bead blast, it will clog the pores of the metal and the park won't take. I always use 120 grit aluminum oxide and 120 grit silicon carbide in a 50-50 mix. Gives a really nice even finish. Move the blaster nozzel in a circular motion about 4-6" from the parts. Don't go in straight lines, it will show up as a tiger stripe pattern after the part comes out of the tank. Plug the bore with rubber stoppers. You will find some at Lowes or someplace similar. Remove all grease and oils before blasting, it will contaminate the blaster media and the finish will look like crap. Use hot water to rinse off the park solution after the parts come out. It will nuetralize the park solution real well. Dry and dip in your preferred oil to soak in the pores of the parkerizing. Manganese phosphate crystals act as a sponge and will soak up the oil. Let drip dry and you're done. |
| My buddy and I have done a bunch of stuff in his garage using a couple of the rectangular stainless pans you see in the steam trays at the cafeteria. He whacked the ends off two of the larger pans and had them welded together. We cooked everything on top of an old two burner Coleman camp stove. We always used a glass bead cabinet at another friends body shop to strip the finish and then eventually picked up an old cabinet and compressor. I've never heard of the glass beads being a problem and I've never had any metal not park on anything we blasted with them.(put a magnet on everything you intend to park, you cant park aluminum and some other metals) As for the barrel, we never plugged any of them and never had a problem. We also didnt blast the beads down the barrel either. For small parts like screws and sights, etc., take a small coffee can and put a small slit in the plastic top and poke the nozzle in the slit and shake the can around as you go and it will do a good job. Just watch those small parts as they are real easy to lose. Same goes for things in the blast cabinet, make sure nothing will slip through the screen. Needless to say, wear goggles even with a closed cabinet and DONT TOUCH YOUR HANDS TO YOUR EYES if you have been touching the beads. My buddy had to go to the eye doc after doing just that to get some removed. The only problems we have had with the finish not coming out right has been due to contamination from dirty hands or what the parts were in before they went in the tank. We always clean everything real well, including our hands, with Gun Scrubber right before the stuff goes into tank and havent had any problems since. Welds, and or different metals and even different heat treating can make for some weird looking parked guns and there isnt much you can do about it, at least we havent figured that part out yet. I have an old Colt .45 slide that had just the front of the slide treated an its a different color than the rest of the slide. |
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