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Posted: 3/2/2003 10:53:12 AM EDT
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Posted this on PerfectUnion, thought it might have some use here as well: "This is a follow-up to a post I made some time ago about using Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II paint on a stainless steel Mini. While I have not re-assembled the Mini (for various reasons) yet, I have some info on the durability of Aluma-Hyde II paint in another connection. I glass bead blasted some stainless-steel mags , degreased them with acetone, and painted them with A-H II matte black paint. They were allowed to dry/cure for 2 weeks at about 75 degF. On re-assembly, the floor plates, which were also painted, were slid into the mags in the usual fashion. Listen up, now. The paint on the floorplates, while scratched by the floorplate retaining tabs on the bottom of the mag body was only scratched. NOT chipped off. NOT scratched through to base metal. The paint was STILL functionally INTACT, except for a minor, surface-only scratch. Some of the credit must be due to a near-perfect painting surface. Also a generous amount of time was allowed for curing. STILL, this is one TOUGH paint. I would not hesitate to recommend this paint for any similar purpose." Disclaimer: No financial connection. |
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I refinish A1 stocks with Alumihyde II paint. It looks great and I would tend to agree that its tough as nails. I am about to "refinish" an entire weapon. Can't decide whether to use the teflon/moly bake on finish (also incredibly tough) or go straight to the alumihyde II. I have not used either on mags though. I have used PermaSlik G for those. Also highly impressive. |
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Red Goat, Why not just paint the foregrip and buttstock on your AR. Both are esily replaced. I painted one of mine a bright yellow and the other purple. Just used an epoxy paint. Painted the pieces white before painting the yellow and purple so I didnt need as many coats of color to cover the black. HdVespa |
Not a bad idea. TRG |
You mean like this?   The base coat on these is Aluma Hyde II in OD. I've also done a set in just OD and they have held up well. I've also done scopes, and knife handles with it, and they have held up as well. If you want to paint your rifle and still be able to remove it completely, use Testors military flats. They can be removed using Hoppes and some work. The paint on top of the OD in the flecktarn above is Testors. It has a couple of coats of clear flat lacquer that heps even it out and makes it resist the solvents better. |
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