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Posted: 6/28/2015 9:18:55 AM EDT
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Is is durable?
Shiny? Does it last? Does the gun need to be a certain base color before dipping? I am looking at the grey/black Kryptek Typhon design. Does it need to be sealed with a matte (dull clear) over coat after dipping? |
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Somewhat.
No. Goes along with the durability. No. Yes. Usually clear Cerakote is applied over the transfer. Look for more info here. |
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Quoted:
Somewhat. No. Goes along with the durability. No. Yes. Usually clear Cerakote is applied over the transfer. Look for more info here. TYVM Sir! I did not realize there was a refinishing section here! |
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Somewhat. No. Goes along with the durability. No. Yes. Usually clear Cerakote is applied over the transfer. Look for more info here. It depends what they clear it with. It can be shiny. |
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Quoted:
It depends what they clear it with. It can be shiny. Quoted:
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Somewhat. No. Goes along with the durability. No. Yes. Usually clear Cerakote is applied over the transfer. Look for more info here. It depends what they clear it with. It can be shiny. That's true. I just usually see companies use 157 or 161FQ, which is a low gloss. Looks almost matte. |
| a good hydro dipper will prep and properly use 2 part auto grade paint. the finish will be more durable than any krylon job but its still paint. ive hydro dipped using Duracoat as the base color and its best of both worlds especially finishing it off with the Duracoat Matte clear as a top coat. if you like a certain pattern i say just go for it but expect some scratches and dings over time. i think it adds to character and gives some rust protection to the outside surfaces.you can always touch up minor stuff with a paint pen or sharpie marker. |
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Quoted: It's a process, not a product. So like some have said, it all depends who does it and what products they use. You can use any type of paint, from rattle can, to Cerakote. So durability depends on the paints. Not really. Some paints will not soften up with the activator and make a sturdy bond with the film. It's really a process of trial and error at first to see what works best. The main thing is water temps. If you can't control the water temp to whichever temps works best, you won't go very far. Of course, your paying someone, hopefully you won't have to worry about this. The finish can be matte, satin, or glossy. It depends on what clear coat they use to meet your needs. I find that automotive clear coat works well, as long as you apply a decent coat that won't bind in tight areas. |
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Quoted:
Not really. Some paints will not soften up with the activator and make a sturdy bond with the film. It's really a process of trial and error at first to see what works best. The main thing is water temps. If you can't control the water temp to whichever temps works best, you won't go very far. Of course, your paying someone, hopefully you won't have to worry about this. The finish can be matte, satin, or glossy. It depends on what clear coat they use to meet your needs. I find that automotive clear coat works well, as long as you apply a decent coat that won't bind in tight areas. Quoted:
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It's a process, not a product. So like some have said, it all depends who does it and what products they use. You can use any type of paint, from rattle can, to Cerakote. So durability depends on the paints. It's really a process of trial and error at first to see what works best. The main thing is water temps. If you can't control the water temp to whichever temps works best, you won't go very far. Of course, your paying someone, hopefully you won't have to worry about this. The finish can be matte, satin, or glossy. It depends on what clear coat they use to meet your needs. I find that automotive clear coat works well, as long as you apply a decent coat that won't bind in tight areas. Every paint SHOULD have a window. Some are shorter than others, so they may not be ideal, but it's there. I haven't come across any paint yet that wouldn't take a dip. |
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Quoted: Every paint SHOULD have a window. Some are shorter than others, so they may not be ideal, but it's there. I haven't come across any paint yet that wouldn't take a dip. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: It's a process, not a product. So like some have said, it all depends who does it and what products they use. You can use any type of paint, from rattle can, to Cerakote. So durability depends on the paints. It's really a process of trial and error at first to see what works best. The main thing is water temps. If you can't control the water temp to whichever temps works best, you won't go very far. Of course, your paying someone, hopefully you won't have to worry about this. The finish can be matte, satin, or glossy. It depends on what clear coat they use to meet your needs. I find that automotive clear coat works well, as long as you apply a decent coat that won't bind in tight areas. Every paint SHOULD have a window. Some are shorter than others, so they may not be ideal, but it's there. I haven't come across any paint yet that wouldn't take a dip. |
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