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1/23/2015 9:43:28 AM EDT
My son bought a old remington 510 .22.  I would like to re-blue it.
Is their a good cold bluing method?  Or would I be wasting my time?
Or should I duracoat it?
I have done duracoat before but never any cold bluing method.  I have seen several videos on it but not sure what is the best way to go.
1/23/2015 10:00:35 AM EDT
[#1]
Never used cold blue on a whole firearm but have used it to "touch up" one for a friend. Was messy and didn't really match up. We used to do some rust bluing which was very labor intensive but it looked really pretty. DuraCoat or CeraKote "C" series (cures at room temp) would be a little less time consuming if you cant bake it. But the "C" series of CeraKote (bake on) would be more durable. Used some of the H109 Gloss Black earlier this week on an AK. It looks pretty good and is an alternative to GunKote AK Black. In any of the finishes meticulous prep work is the key to a good looking long lasting finish.
1/23/2015 11:35:23 AM EDT
[#2]
I have used this:  http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/paste-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue-creme-prod1108.aspx



to completely blue a CZ82 and a Thompson flint lock, it was easy touse and has held up well.
1/23/2015 12:01:06 PM EDT
[#3]
I watch a video where a guy used the expho blue.  He also used a brown base first.  Cant remember now what it was called.
He said it would help with corrosion protection.
1/23/2015 3:45:30 PM EDT
[#4]
Cold blue will never look as good or be as hard-wearing as a proper hot blue.
That said, I agree with Brownells Oxpho as the best cold blue.
Degrease well, heat the part until it's almost too hot to hold, rub on the Oxpho (you can get fairly aggressive), rinse with hot water, hose it down with WD40 to displace the water, oil it.
Look at it the next day; you'll probably want to repeat the process. Do not be surprised if it takes a half-dozen applications to get the look you want.
1/28/2015 12:25:50 AM EDT
[#5]
I use Vans cold blue and had great results most of it is in the metal prep and degrease also heat your parts and dunk anything that you can in CB solution..For big parts work on/in with toothbrush or fine steel wool rinse with clear water repeat to finish take #0000 steel wool to even up finish look rinse and oil. You can buy the stuff by the gallon from Vans like 80.00/gal probably enough you could make a pan out of aluminum foil and do entire rifle.using heated parts and dunking is by far the best fully decreased
http://www.hunt101.com/data/500/medium/9564Tripod1.jpg
1/28/2015 10:08:27 AM EDT
[#6]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-CDOJF-TmY

What do you think of this?
Does the first step really work?
thanks
1/28/2015 4:07:31 PM EDT
[#7]
Go to this website http://www.vansgunblue.com this is the little Irish guy that sets up at the creek and his products work fantastic. Absolute best method is to totally degrease and buff and polish metal degrease again heat in oven if your wife does not kill you first anywhere from 150-175 degree and dunk parts hit with steel wool and repeat if needed rinse with water and oil finish. No need to brown. The Vans is a very durable finish when done this way... I had done a bunch of 20mm Lahti parts this way and turned out fabulous..
1/30/2015 4:54:21 AM EDT
[#8]
I cold blued a Ruger MK I pistol I bought used for my son and it never really did it justice. It was better than it was, but I will most likely GunKote it next.
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