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1/31/2009 12:04:49 PM EDT
I think I want to try cerakote on an AR and 870

I was either going to use ambient cure since I do not have an overn, or build an oven out of an old gun safe and use bake on.

Does anyone have experience with either?

Thanks
1/31/2009 9:29:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Cerakote is a whole different experience.  

They have air and oven cured.  Oven cured you must mix with a hardener like Duracoat.  Air cure is straight from the bottle.  

Cerakote has limited colors.  Some colors only come in oven or air cure, not both.  When they do come in both they will most likely have different gloss rating and won't match in texture or sheen.  There are tricks to getting around this.

Do not even think about touching Cerakote until it has sufficiently cured.  You do you might as well hose it down with brake cleaner and start again.  The stuff will look dry but acts almost like a powder coat until it dries.

Oven cured is rated more durable.
2/1/2009 5:02:01 PM EDT
[#2]
I ended up building a convection oven out of a crappy safe and milwakke heat gun coated in rigid foam insulation.  I have been taking temperature all day and I can't believe how well it works

I ordered cercoat and norrell molly, I have a bunch of guns to coat.
2/3/2009 5:32:40 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
I ended up building a convection oven out of a crappy safe and milwakke heat gun coated in rigid foam insulation.  I have been taking temperature all day and I can't believe how well it works

I ordered cercoat and norrell molly, I have a bunch of guns to coat.



Hey Chips, would you mind posting some pixs of your oven? R.K.
2/4/2009 8:48:25 PM EDT
[#4]
I am a Cerakote applicator and I use both C-Series (ambi. cure) and H-Series (oven cure). Both work just as well as the other. I prefer the C-Series myself, because it takes away an extra step and I  don't want wood or plastic in my oven The only downside to the C-Series is the limit of colors, but most of the popular colors come in C-series anyway. The biggest advise I can give you is make sure your surface is prepped properly. I etch everything with AO, and outgas all metal parts completely before coating. It's been a few years since I've read NIC's instructions, but they used to say use an HVLP to spray your parts. I only use an airbrush for firarms because an HVLP wont get inside handgun frames, slides, and other recievers to give a proper finish. Also, as someone said earlier, if you use C-Series, Do Not reassemble your parts until proper curing time. My policy is 1 week after coating at the earliest. Good Luck.
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