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Posted: 8/20/2006 10:28:22 PM EDT
| Will Duracoat withstand the temps of an semi-auto AR barrel under normal use. The web site says temps of 500-600 degrees. How hot does a barrel get under "normal" use? I'd like to use Norrell's, since I've used it in the past, but not being able to bake grips and stocks makes it harder to match colors. Also the new KG ceramic coating is some slick stuff, just coated a barrel with it and it's some really tuff stuff. |
i dont understand why you didnt read what he typed in the first post
i have no intention of starting anything, i am sure you have used every type of refinish product out there and you are an expert at just about everything. |
Really?  You would never know that from what you just wrote.
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Fred, Less than a week ago, you indicated that you had tried Duracoat. On that, I congratulate you, its not easy for a lot of people to make that jump. In another thread you ask about solvent resistance of Norrells. These comments, as well as a few others would indicate a lack of experience with refinishing. There is nothing wrong with that, as everyone has to start somewhere. However, you are missing large portions of the overall picture. Norrells works quite well on plastics, with very minor exceptions. Unlike DC, it maintains a high level of solvent resistance. We have talked about the differences between coatings in several threads, so there really isn't a need to talk about them again here. The uses of Norrells on plastics/ polymers has also been dicussed numerous times. kb1- I've used Norrells on stocks and grips plenty of times, it works very well. The below pic is off a stock I did roughly 18 months ago. While it doesn't see daily use, its been run around a bit.  |
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Warning Off Topic Question for Stickman: Hey Stickman, what kind of setup do you use for your photos? I'm always looking for for inexpensive in-home studio setups...just wondering what you use for the white background...I'm guessing that you just blow it out with levels and/or curves after you take the pictures like is usually done? nice lighting for the intended purpose of your photos by the way Thanks |
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Warning Off Topic Question for Stickman: Hey Stickman, what kind of setup do you use for your photos? I'm always looking for for inexpensive in-home studio setups...just wondering what you use for the white background...I'm guessing that you just blow it out with levels and/or curves after you take the pictures like is usually done? nice lighting for the intended purpose of your photos by the way Thanks I don't have a studio, not even an in home one. It would be nice, but I spent all my cash on the camera, with the rest in weapon parts.  I wish I had an idea how to use curves, but I suck hard with photoshop. I tend to adjust my exposures to blow out the white through the camera settings. I shoot everything in manual (actually in AP, and override the settings manually). I keep getting told it would be easier by using PS for my results, but for me its more a matter of just needing to get the pics right the first time. One of these days I'll learn PS, I am quite envious of those who are able to use it well. |
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I've never had a problem with Duracoated barrels on any ARs I've refinished. I've never had black turn lighter colors and have never painted barrels lighter colors to see if they turn darker. I did recently reblast my SS WOA barrel and then DC matte clear over it and I smelled a little this weekend after a nice string of rounds. 
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My dura coated stuff does that too I Dura Coated one of my Cans and I've ran atleast 1500 rds throught so far. I've also "tanked" the can in an Ultra Sonic for 3 hours (just did it yesterday after 180rds) w/o any problems with the Dura Coat coming off. The suppressor was used by a police agency and they had some shitty camo job on it, they ruined an entire Colt 9mm SMG with their shitty attempt at urban camo. But Dura Coat saved it Prep is the key. Make sure you degrease and pre heat and heat inbetween coats. I did 3 light coats on the can using a hair dryer inbetween coats to keep it warm. In fact I did the entire gun like that, and it's in great shape Pics taken after the rifle was built. Damn shame it won't run with the Pro Mags though  
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Wow. The finish on that can was how my attempt at KG guncoat was turning out and I personally hate it. I think it's very unprofessional looking on lowers and mags or any rifle part. But I do have to say that if you did that on purpose to get a good heavy coat that won't burn or wear easily, I think you've got it. No offense meant, just an observation. 
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That's more the texture of the can then the Dura Coat. THe can looked like that before I dura coated it. It's a roung texture stainless steel, I put 3 light coats on the can, just enough to cover up the shitty urban camo job the Howard County Police SWAT team did to it. |
maybe you should have sandblasted it before, then resprayed it. maybe it would have come out smooth. |
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