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Posted: 12/13/2014 12:33:59 PM EDT
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Hi,
How do you actually collimate an Anvis like it is being shown here?: http://wilcoxeng-res.com/Specials/ANVIS9_72lp_UpArmor%20Nov14.html Like if you sometimes look through an uncollimated anvis you can feel how your eyes need to match both tubes and overlay them correctly witch can cause a headache. I am not referring to the diopter focus. Thanks, NV-guy |
I use a TS-3895 with a Collimation bridge and eyepiece. Basically it superimposes both tubes images over each other and allows you to turn the eyepiece lens to place the targets directly on top of each other, achieving collimation. That is a rather expensive way to collimate one goggle though 
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Quoted:
I use a TS-3895 with a Collimation bridge and eyepiece. Basically it superimposes both tubes images over each other and allows you to turn the eyepiece lens to place the targets directly on top of each other, achieving collimation. That is a rather expensive way to collimate one goggle though Hmm ok interesting, so you actually turn all of the eyepiece unit and not just the diopter adjustment? |
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Quoted:
Hmm ok interesting, so you actually turn all of the eyepiece unit and not just the diopter adjustment? Quoted:
Quoted:
I use a TS-3895 with a Collimation bridge and eyepiece. Basically it superimposes both tubes images over each other and allows you to turn the eyepiece lens to place the targets directly on top of each other, achieving collimation. That is a rather expensive way to collimate one goggle though Hmm ok interesting, so you actually turn all of the eyepiece unit and not just the diopter adjustment? Correct, diopter should be set at 0 and not turned, then turn the entire eyepiece assembly to collimate. |
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Quoted: Hi, How do you actually collimate an Anvis like it is being shown here?: http://wilcoxeng-res.com/Specials/ANVIS9_72lp_UpArmor%20Nov14.html Like if you sometimes look through an uncollimated anvis you can feel how your eyes need to match both tubes and overlay them correctly witch can cause a headache. I am not referring to the diopter focus. Thanks, NV-guy There are two issues here - Collimation and boresighting. Collimation is about setting the ocular lens so that the "zero" diopter sets focus correctly for someone with perfect vision or who wears glasses. An experienced person can generally set it within about 0.25 to 0.5 diopters by hand - but with two monoculars ( eg, ANVIS ) you need both set the same... A "poor man's way" of doing it is to alternately shut and open your eyes and look through one/both of the sides while looking at the same object in the distance ( eg, stars ) which will let you get it pretty close - again, requires experience. The issue of boresighting is another - and is how close the optical axis of the unit is to the un-intensified optical axis - This can't be so easily corrected - and is related to factors such as tube off-axis alignment error. ANVIS tubes are closely matched and have either very similar errors, as well as much tighter tolerances around that specification - Five times tighter tolerances than the PVS-14. But they aren't perfect - They can usually be up to 1 degree out - ref: http://www.usaarl.army.mil/TechReports/96-13.PDF (Page 13, under collimation ). If you just want to do a home-made collimation though, and have something like a camera with a very wide lens, you can manually set the camera for "Infinity focus" then look at the monocular screen with it, and bring the image to focus by rotating the entire ocular lens with the diopter set for "0" - This should do it fairly accurately. However, just call Ed Wilcox and ask him if you want more information - he's usually pretty reasonably with his prices from what I have heard over the years, and if you're curious, I can't recommend anyone better to go to, and you can have a chat with him about what he does even if you're not sure about getting a professional to do it - Besides, he can comment on the boresighting of your unit as well - an important factor - Regards David
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Quoted:
However, just call Ed Wilcox and ask him if you want more information - he's usually pretty reasonably with his prices from what I have heard over the years, and if you're curious, I can't recommend anyone better to go to, and you can have a chat with him about what he does even if you're not sure about getting a professional to do it - Besides, he can comment on the boresighting of your unit as well - an important factor - Ed will coddle, handhold, spoon, and baby feed you -- I know, because he's done it for me. That pair of NVBS-15 I have were bought directly from Ed, with full multi-year warranty, for $4500 -- and yes, they were brand new with all original accessories, etc. Not only did I get a great deal, I got to burden him with hours of dialog and he never once called me a moron. I've never once talked to someone for so long without being called a moron.
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