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Posted: 2/17/2013 5:52:06 AM EDT
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I have a slaved ir/vis laser mounted on the rails. I aligned the vis laser with the top of the triangle on my Trijicon 3-9x. At night at am shooting 1 inch low at 35 yds (using shoot & see targets). The trijicon is sighted in at 100yds. I don't have enough range time to experiment as much as I would like. My questions are:
1. Should I align the top of the Trijicon triangle reticle with the laser at 3x or at 9x power? 2. If the 3-9x trijicon is zeroed at 100yds, is it normal for the ir laser be shooting 1" low at 35 yds?; would it shoot "normal" @100yds? 3. The laser is a CQBL and and its hard to see the target behind the laser bloom. Is there a way to reduce the bloom? |
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1. It will depend on what magnification / distance you are going to more likely use the laser at. What you really need to do is pick one distance and zero it, then shoot it at different distances/magnifications and see where it hits on target. Come up with a dope chart and then you'll know exactly where it will hit.
2. Yes. Just like with iron sights, you should be hitting 1" low at 25y, and about 1.5-2" low at 7 yards. Your bullet trajectory doesn't change. 3. Reduce the power output of the laser if you're getting bloom. The other option is to put an illuminator on the rifle and the extra light will change how much light the NOD sees and reduce the bloom. The other thing to consider is that depending on where you mount the laser, you should have your POA offset because the laser is not XY axis aligned with the bore. For instance, if you mount the laser on the top rail and the laser diode is on the left side, you should measure the offset from the bore to the laser diode. Then zero the laser offset up and left with your measured offset on the target. In that way, your laser will be aligned with the bore out to infinity. You will still have to contend with the bullet's trajectory, but your aim point will always be aligned. If you zero at the POA/POI at a certain distance, once you go past that your aim point will be a diagonal line which no longer will align with the bullet's trajectory. |
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Quoted:
1. It will depend on what magnification / distance you are going to more likely use the laser at. What you really need to do is pick one distance and zero it, then shoot it at different distances/magnifications and see where it hits on target. Come up with a dope chart and then you'll know exactly where it will hit. 2. Yes. Just like with iron sights, you should be hitting 1" low at 25y, and about 1.5-2" low at 7 yards. Your bullet trajectory doesn't change. 3. Reduce the power output of the laser if you're getting bloom. The other option is to put an illuminator on the rifle and the extra light will change how much light the NOD sees and reduce the bloom. The other thing to consider is that depending on where you mount the laser, you should have your POA offset because the laser is not XY axis aligned with the bore. For instance, if you mount the laser on the top rail and the laser diode is on the left side, you should measure the offset from the bore to the laser diode. Then zero the laser offset up and left with your measured offset on the target. In that way, your laser will be aligned with the bore out to infinity. You will still have to contend with the bullet's trajectory, but your aim point will always be aligned. If you zero at the POA/POI at a certain distance, once you go past that your aim point will be a diagonal line which no longer will align with the bullet's trajectory. Thanks Doc. I understand everything but adjusting for POA offset. I understand that if I zero at a certain distance, the laser will be a diagonal line. I am not understanding how to adjust the laser for this offset. It just has a windage and elevation adjustments. If you don't mind, could you dumb it down for me? |
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I'm in the same boat as mirage trying to zero the DBAL-I2 without slaved lasers. I just want a hard IR laser zero at 100 yards for pigs, but what sounded easy is proving difficult in practice. Maybe someone has a better idea.
The DBAL-I2 is a pain to zero if you don't have a convenient place to shoot at night, or at least sandbag the gun on target at range. I have a convenient range, but no shooting is permitted after dark. What I did after mounting the DBAL: 1. Remove Eotech and aimpoint TL base temporarily. I cannot resolve the eotech dot as well as I can a scope. 2. Put on instead Leupold target scope on Larue mount (8-25x50 LRT w/ target dot on SPR mount). The Leupold is just high enough to see over the DBAL @ 12 o'clock. 3. Found the red laser very hard to see in scope at 200 in daylight so went with 100. 4. Adjusted scope to hit dead X at 100 5. Adjusted red laser dot to co-witness, making sure to CW into it per directions. 6. Verified the red zero at 100, 50 and 200. GTG. 5. Wait for dark to zero the IR laser. It started raining buckets, great. At dark, with 14 on I could def see the IR on target frame but could not discern the bull or anything thru scope. Went home. So I guess I could now co-witness the IR to the red laser or the scope dot, but the trick is in the doing if you only have a PVS-14, plus you cant turn on both lasers at once, much less see them both. I will try to go back to the range just before dark and get the scope sandbagged with dot on the x, with a small square of bling tape in the center and Torch Pro illuminator so I can see bull real well, and also a strong white spotlight to check scope alignment on target. When dark I will try to adjust IR laser on the X without firing (so I don't get runn-oft by the range nazi), and fire up a strong white light to check that the scope is still on the x. I should be able to verify the laser is on the x when the scope is, and call it good to go. I should be able to get this done - I can't think of any other way to zero it. I wish the Leupold had an illuminated reticle, it would be easier to see after dark and confirm its on the x. I do have a Vortex with illum ret I could swap out, but I'd have to remount it and re-zero. ETA: I could shoot after dark on my hunting property. In this case I will use the EOtech with 14 and 3x mag behind it. With Torch Illuminator on and a piece of glint tape at 100, I should be able to get a good zero. Then I just have to co-witness the IR laser to the Eotech reticle, at range. I should be able to see the IR laser dot and the EOtech reticle, but I def need to confirm this. ETA2 maybe I'm over-thinking this. After fooling around in the dark with the laser and my NOD just now, I think I just need to live-fire at night with 14 mounted on the rifle (+3x magnifier), with IR laser on and EOtech reticle off, on a target with a piece of glint tape to hold on. Simple. |
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If you have the TNVC aimpoint base adapter or could just hold your NVG steady behind your optic, you can turn on your (zeroed) optic to NVG setting while looking at anything 100m away adjust the laser dot to optic dot. That is exactly what I do with my DBAL-I2. Aimpoint T1 is zeroed and verified each range visit. I have a twistmount from TNVC for the PVS14 to line it up behind the red dot. Turn on the IR laser in my backyard at night. Pick a XX range target for whatever range I want to zero it. Make the IR laser dot match the T1 red dot. Course zero acheived without firing a shot. I do follow up on my next night live fire outing by tweaking my zero and marking the rail spot and the windage/elevation wheels as with any sighting device. |
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Maybe I under thought this, but all I did was mount the PVS-14 behind the comp M aimpoint (zero'd for 100), attached the DBAL I2, waited for dark, and dialed both lasers to the aimpoints dot, then removed the PVS-14.... Seems to work fine, and at double the distance they will only be off as much as they are at point blank, but on opposite sides since they are crossing the bore line at 100 yds.
Joe |
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Good deal. I'm running a vis/invis setup myself and it sure makes it nice to be able to set things up during the day and test it easily, then confirm at night. Enjoy.. I sure wish the DBAL-i2 was this way  Just sell it to me for cheap and buy what you want 
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Pretty much what the last poster said. If ya'll can find a place where you have 100 yards, you don't need to fire a shot in order to zero. Sometimes it helps to do this in a buddy team.
Set up where you are very very stable. Prone, rifle braced on the ground, whatever. Put the dot of your optic on your aim point. With your NVD on (this is really easy with a PVS14) you can look through the NOD and see where your IR laser is hitting. then adjust it so they meet. You can close one eye than the other to verify. The hardest part is adjusting the laser without breaking your position - that's where a buddy comes in. They can adjust whatever direction you tell them. Once you have it dialed in, make sure you mark the dials so you know if it has moved! |
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I just got my CQBL-1 from TNVC after waiting for a few weeks. As the posters above have mentioned, I just dialed the laser to my Aimpoint's dot. I have not been able to go to the range yet and fine tune the laser yet, but that will happen soon.
I am quite happy with the size of the unit and the slaved lasers definitely make adjustments easier. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2W2KV3-9q8I/USK5N5F1z6I/AAAAAAAABw8/cSaHcugARhE/s640/IMG_0372.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5jxhhT_G6Hw/USK5NkbtuZI/AAAAAAAABw8/7WO_u6aicx0/s640/IMG_0373.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U2kmmPJ4HyU/USK5JHCyrEI/AAAAAAAABw8/xVY4mHzbQzI/s640/IMG_0375.JPG |
| They replaced my board late last year after they told me the boards were updated. I found the battery dead a few weeks ago. Had maybe 10 seconds of use on it. You might want to check if the laser still works after 6-8 weeks with the switch in the off position. 4 weeks shouldn't be a problem. They told me to send my unit back for the second time. I again have to pay shipping out of my own pocket for the second time. |
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