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Posted: 12/27/2011 7:49:18 PM EDT
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Hey all - I'm the latest to try the Beamshot IR conversion, and Couvillion, I am buying you a beer. Someday. Somehow.
Everything is done and I just spent a friggin hour and a half trying to zero it. Finally got RIGHT on the money, but there's a stupid-huge blob (maybe 4"x2") that's appeared about 6-8" southwest of center. If I adjust the windage, it gradually goes away and disappears, but by the time it disappears, the gun is grouping more than 8" left at 10 yards. It's not a dealbreaker - the point of aim is much brighter and the eye is drawn right to it, but it's a shame - so much adjustment that's NOT dead-on is a beautiful, clean dot, and now when it finally is zeroed, this. Any thoughts? Am I doing something wrong? I made sure the lock screw was way out, but even playing with it had no effect. Things I learned in the process: 1. Heat + tape + strap wrench + vise = head unit removed 2. Rotating/removing the old diode is a snap with thin/small enough needlenose 3. JUST CUT A DAMN PIECE OF PLASTIC INTO A V. I tried the allen wrench through the hole thing for what seems like eighteen months. Just do the plastic, it's instant. 4. Adjust the windage/elevation screws to basically center the diode before reassembly. When zeroing, you can sort of "boresight" it. I was using it on my Mosquito with the click tailcap (which I highly recommend). (BTW, the Beamshot M1 picatinny mount fits just fine on a Skeeter or P226 - hecka lot better than any of the other mounting solutions.) I adjusted the focus on my 14 to be between my front and rear sight when held at firing position, enough so I could kinda get a decent though fuzzy sight picture. Then I clicked the laser on, and was able to pretty easily see where the laser was pointing compared to the iron sights despite the laser being a big unfocused blob - still easy to tell. There is a lot of adjustment in these lasers, so getting it roughly in the ballpark will save a LOT of aggravation. 5. When adjusting windage and elevation, think of the allen screw "pulling" the laser dot towards itself. For instance, if you need the laser to move down (gun grouping low) and you've got the laser oriented so there's a screw on the bottom, tighten (clockwise  ) the bottom screw to "pull" the laser down.
6. DON'T GO APESHIT WITH THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS. At one point, both of my adjustment screws only moved the dot at the very end of their adjustment ranges - turns out the springs inside can bind if they're compressed too much. I took the head off, loosened both screws, and it was fine. Just get it roughly centered before reassembly and then make small changes. This thing is amazing - seriously, what a fantastic, feasible alternative. Dammit, now I need to buy more for my other guns... |
These tend to get moved to lights and lasers. I know only night vision will see IR lasers but it still falls under a laser. Just sayin... 
Weird, but it is what it is. Hard for a Mod to determine what is or what is not night vision related so they all usually just get sent to lights and lasers. |
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Quoted:
Hey all - I'm the latest to try the Beamshot IR conversion, and Couvillion, I am buying you a beer. Someday. Somehow. Everything is done and I just spent a friggin hour and a half trying to zero it. Finally got RIGHT on the money, but there's a stupid-huge blob (maybe 4"x2") that's appeared about 6-8" southwest of center. If I adjust the windage, it gradually goes away and disappears, but by the time it disappears, the gun is grouping more than 8" left at 10 yards. It's not a dealbreaker - the point of aim is much brighter and the eye is drawn right to it, but it's a shame - so much adjustment that's NOT dead-on is a beautiful, clean dot, and now when it finally is zeroed, this. Any thoughts? Am I doing something wrong? I made sure the lock screw was way out, but even playing with it had no effect. Things I learned in the process: 1. Heat + tape + strap wrench + vise = head unit removed 2. Rotating/removing the old diode is a snap with thin/small enough needlenose 3. JUST CUT A DAMN PIECE OF PLASTIC INTO A V. I tried the allen wrench through the hole thing for what seems like eighteen months. Just do the plastic, it's instant. 4. Adjust the windage/elevation screws to basically center the diode before reassembly. When zeroing, you can sort of "boresight" it. I was using it on my Mosquito with the click tailcap (which I highly recommend). (BTW, the Beamshot M1 picatinny mount fits just fine on a Skeeter or P226 - hecka lot better than any of the other mounting solutions.) I adjusted the focus on my 14 to be between my front and rear sight when held at firing position, enough so I could kinda get a decent though fuzzy sight picture. Then I clicked the laser on, and was able to pretty easily see where the laser was pointing compared to the iron sights despite the laser being a big unfocused blob - still easy to tell. There is a lot of adjustment in these lasers, so getting it roughly in the ballpark will save a LOT of aggravation. 5. When adjusting windage and elevation, think of the allen screw "pulling" the laser dot towards itself. For instance, if you need the laser to move down (gun grouping low) and you've got the laser oriented so there's a screw on the bottom, tighten (clockwise ) the bottom screw to "pull" the laser down.
6. DON'T GO APESHIT WITH THE ADJUSTMENT SCREWS. At one point, both of my adjustment screws only moved the dot at the very end of their adjustment ranges - turns out the springs inside can bind if they're compressed too much. I took the head off, loosened both screws, and it was fine. Just get it roughly centered before reassembly and then make small changes. This thing is amazing - seriously, what a fantastic, feasible alternative. Dammit, now I need to buy more for my other guns...[/quote] Do a Step by step with pic's next time  |
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If you see a second dot off to the side the diode might not be in the hole perfect I have seen this installing the red diode back in.
Took it out and spun the diode slid it back in a couple times and the second dot went away. My IR diodes never did this but I would think it is the same thing. And for the price they cant be beat only downfall is the allen wrench adjustments. Hope that makes sense to you. Another trick I learned is once it is culminated put a drop of lock tight on the edge where you adjust it. |
| Well I spun it a bit and tried to be sure it was properly seated, still got the blob. Oh well - it really doesn't matter. What I might do is if/when I buy more, I'll hope that zeroing it on another gun will cause it to be in the sweet spot and vice versa. This thing still rules. |
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Go to the hardware store and find a rubber cap that fits over the head of the laser. Make a 1/32 to 1/16 (go bigger if you need it) hole in it by using a hot piece of wire. Place over your laser and see if that cleans up the dot. That is basically making a pinhole aperture, which can be done with a regular red laser to dim it enough to use with NV devices. A larger hole may be needed. You could try this theory with a piece of black plastic and some tape.
Or you could put the adjusters to dead center and try to bend the lasers housing or mount to get you closer to true POI. Hope this helps |
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