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Posted: 2/10/2015 6:34:59 AM EDT
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Ok. I want to get a MN at the gun show near me this weekend.
Which would be better a 91/30 or a 44? Why? If you think there is a better MN option, let me know. What is the likelihood of finding either with a good bore that is not counter bored? If I can only find counter bored examples, how do I tell if it has been done right without firing it? I do have some experience with Mosin-Nagants as I did own a 1933 91/30 Izhevsk that shot ok, but the muzzle end of rifling was shot out. Now I want a MN again. Any input is welcome, just keep it civil. I know how the boards get sometimes. |
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If you can find a good example, I'd get the M44 first.
They're getting more expensive all the time and were made in lessor numbers Than the 91/30 was. You'll be able to find 91/30s at decent prices longer, IMO. An arsenal counter bored rifle should be just fine. I wouldn't sweat that. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
There is nothing wrong with counter boring! When will that anti-CB idiocy ever end? I never said I had a problem with a CB Mosin. I just wanted to know how to tell it was done right as I have read accounts of CB Mosins that shoot worse than a non CB of the same model and vice versa. |
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Russian models Id get an m38, then m44, then 91/30 but they are also in order of most expensive to least. I have all of those and I like tohe m38 bc most of the time you dont need a bayo.
My counterbored hex shoots amazing. Look with a light down the bore. It should be a larger diameter hole than the rest of the barrell. Bullet should go all the way in. If it looks dirty and corroded of off center maybe pass. |
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Got the m44.
It's got a 1944 production date and looks like some of the parts were arsenal force matched. Barrel is not counter bored and passes the bullet in the muzzle test. Decent looking stock. The stock I wanted was on a different rifle though. Won't know how it shoots for about a week or so, but I expect it to do well. |
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