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Posted: 10/21/2013 4:05:49 PM EDT
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this has worked for me more time than i can count Quoted:
Quoted:
You can drive a torx bit into a rounded Allen head. The teeth on the torx will bite into what's left of the Allen's corners. this has worked for me more time than i can count Try this first. If it doesn't work, cut a slot for a flathead and try that. |
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Quoted: Try this first. If it doesn't work, cut a slot for a flathead and try that. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: You can drive a torx bit into a rounded Allen head. The teeth on the torx will bite into what's left of the Allen's corners. this has worked for me more time than i can count Try this first. If it doesn't work, cut a slot for a flathead and try that. Gonna have to keep that in mind for the future.
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Totally apart from the screw issue, it appears that the back of the tang is now bedded tightly to the stock mortise.
It should not be. Bedding the bottom of the tang is helpful, but the back of the tang is not designed to function as a recoil lug. Bedding the back of the tang tightly to the stock mortise leads to splitting the stock at the wrist: it acts a wedge every time you fire the rifle. The Mosin-Nagant's recoil lug is under the receiver ring: the forward action screw threads into it. That is the area that should be bedded tightly, but the back of the tang should have a bit of clearance. There are some youtube viddys out there telling folks to bed the back of the tang; they are wrong. |
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If you have bedding compound/epoxy in the screw threads, place a soldering iron on the screw head and heat it up good. The heat will travel down the screw and will break down the epoxy. You should then be able to remove the fastener. Good luck. BGF +100 This A cigar lighter (butane) works wonders too. |
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