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10/21/2013 4:05:49 PM EDT
I bedded my Mosin's stock last night only to discover that I have created a mechanical lock (at least on the screw).  Although the bottom screw was a bitch to remove, I managed to get it out, but the top screw won't budge.  The original screws were replaced by a set of hex screws from RSI.  After a long struggle attempting to get the screw out, it got stripped and the hole rounded.  Can anyone offer some suggestions how to try to get the screw out?  Will a bolt extractor help?

10/21/2013 5:20:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Use a drill bit the same size as the screw shank and drill the head off the screw. The stripped Allen "hole" will make a nice guide for the drill. Go slowly and not too deep...check your progress often.
10/21/2013 9:25:56 PM EDT
[#2]
You can try a screw extractor, but I'd first try a cheap metric or SAE hex hammered into the slot first.  You might get lucky if you do that.  If the other two fail then do what KB7DX said.
10/22/2013 4:53:36 AM EDT
[#3]
Dremmel a slot in the hex head and remove with an impact screwdriver or similar.
10/22/2013 10:12:46 AM EDT
[#4]
You can drive a torx bit into a rounded Allen head. The teeth on the torx will bite into what's left of the Allen's corners.

10/22/2013 12:56:48 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
You can drive a torx bit into a rounded Allen head. The teeth on the torx will bite into what's left of the Allen's corners.

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this has worked for me more time than i can count
10/22/2013 1:06:04 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:

this has worked for me more time than i can count
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Quoted:
Quoted:
You can drive a torx bit into a rounded Allen head. The teeth on the torx will bite into what's left of the Allen's corners.


this has worked for me more time than i can count


Try this first.  If it doesn't work, cut a slot for a flathead and try that.
10/22/2013 1:55:12 PM EDT
[#7]

Quote History
Quoted:
Try this first.  If it doesn't work, cut a slot for a flathead and try that.
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Quoted:



Quoted:


Quoted:

You can drive a torx bit into a rounded Allen head. The teeth on the torx will bite into what's left of the Allen's corners.





this has worked for me more time than i can count




Try this first.  If it doesn't work, cut a slot for a flathead and try that.




 
Gonna have to keep that in mind for the future.
10/23/2013 9:32:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Totally apart from the screw issue, it appears that the back of the tang is now bedded tightly to the stock mortise.
It should not be. Bedding the bottom of the tang is helpful, but the back of the tang is not designed to function as a recoil lug. Bedding the back of the tang tightly to the stock mortise leads to splitting the stock at the wrist: it acts a wedge every time you fire the rifle.
The Mosin-Nagant's recoil lug is under the receiver ring: the forward action screw threads into it. That is the area that should be bedded tightly, but the back of the tang should have a bit of clearance.

There are some youtube viddys out there telling folks to bed the back of the tang; they are wrong.
10/23/2013 10:11:02 AM EDT
[#9]
If you have bedding compound/epoxy in the screw threads, place a soldering iron on the screw head and heat it up good.

The heat will travel down the screw and will break down the epoxy.

You should then be able to remove the fastener.

Good luck.

BGF
10/23/2013 6:15:51 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Quoted:
If you have bedding compound/epoxy in the screw threads, place a soldering iron on the screw head and heat it up good.

The heat will travel down the screw and will break down the epoxy.

You should then be able to remove the fastener.

Good luck.

BGF
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+100 This

A cigar lighter (butane) works wonders too.
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