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9/13/2007 1:50:25 AM EDT
There appears to be a problem with my K98's safety engagement. When I engage the safety and pull the trigger, the cocking piece sear slips past the trigger sear and I hear a click. The trigger sear then appears to be under the cocking piece because pulling the trigger will move the cocking piece up and down slightly. When I turn the safety to the fire position, the safety is noticeably harder to flip but the trigger snaps back into its forward position and the rifle doesn't fire by itself.

Is this normal? My concern is that it can lead to a potentially dangerous problem when the safety is flipped off. This is my first German K98 but I am familiar with the Mauser safety design since I already own a Yugo M48 Mauser.

My understanding of the proper function of the safety mechanism: when the safety is engaged, the cocking piece should be held back far enough so that regardless of whether or not the trigger is pulled while on safe, the cocking piece sear cannot slip past the trigger sear. If it does slip past, it is possible that the gun may fire as soon as the safety is flipped off (even if the trigger isn't pulled).

My guess is that the problem with the K98 is most likely due to wear on the cocking piece (specifically the safety engagement shoulder) or the safety.

Any gun smiths or experienced folks willing to shed some light on this? Have I identified a real problem or is this just all in my head?

Thanks ahead of time.
9/13/2007 4:05:49 AM EDT
[#1]
You're using the term, "trigger sear", as if it were one object when it is in fact two separate parts. There's a trigger and there's a sear. They are not one item.

When you engage a Mauser safety it lifts the cocking piece away from the sear and holds it there. When you disengage the safety it sets the cocking piece back down on the sear.

"When I engage the safety and pull the trigger, the cocking piece sear slips past the trigger sear and I hear a click."

What I'm reading here is your safety doesn't work at all. There's no way the cocking piece can get past the sear unless the trigger is pulled when the safety is OFF. It kinda sounds like your trigger is getting stuck in the "pulled" position when you have the safety engaged and you pull the trigger. Does the trigger work ok otherwise?

Instead of all this explaining what its doing and how it sounds, you need to take the barreled action out of the wood. Remove the bolt and disassemble it to inspect the top edge of the cocking piece. Some back country gun fixers (that would include vodka swilling Russians) grind an angle so the safety lever camming surface picks up the cocking piece better. This happens when number-matching original parts are mixed around, usually.

While the barreled action is out of the wood, inspect the trigger and sear. The sear has a spring that keeps it in the UP position until the camming action of the trigger pulls it down to release the cocking piece to fire. Its pretty simple. Look at each part and look for damage or wear patterns that don't look right. The trigger should move freely but with spring tension. If there's stickiness it needs to be removed and cleaned and "worked" until it moves freely. Sometimes lapping compound can be introduced into the workings of the trigger and sear and sear-to-receiver pivot pin to work it smoother. You don't mess with the sear to cocking piece engagement surfaces, but do note their condition. They should be smooth. You can check those contact sufaces by using some marking method like layout dye to see the contact wear engagement area.

The sear attaches to the receiver with one pin and has one spring to keep it under tension.

The trigger is pinned to the sear. The trigger has two bumps on it to create a two-stage triggerpull.

Since you have another 98 Mauser rifle, you can take the bolt apart and compare them with the K98k bolt parts and note anything that doesn't look nice. Grind marks or broken pieces of something or other would be un-nice.

Get back to us when you do the above. Its late I'm tired.

Dutch
9/13/2007 4:38:25 AM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
You're using the term, "trigger sear", as if it were one object when it is in fact two separate parts. There's a trigger and there's a sear. They are not one item.


I'm referring to the sear which interfaces with the cocking piece.


When you engage a Mauser safety it lifts the cocking piece away from the sear and holds it there. When you disengage the safety it sets the cocking piece back down on the sear.

"When I engage the safety and pull the trigger, the cocking piece sear slips past the trigger sear and I hear a click."

What I'm reading here is your safety doesn't work at all. There's no way the cocking piece can get past the sear unless the trigger is pulled when the safety is OFF. It kinda sounds like your trigger is getting stuck in the "pulled" position when you have the safety engaged and you pull the trigger. Does the trigger work ok otherwise?


The trigger is somehow interacting with the cocking piece even when the safety is on. I think that the cocking piece is resting against the trigger. When the trigger is pulled, it "clicks" and goes past the cocking piece and the cocking piece moves slightly, now only being held from going forward by the safety. At this point, the trigger feels like it is under the cocking piece and pulling the trigger pushes the cocking piece up and down (but no more "click").


Instead of all this explaining what its doing and how it sounds, you need to take the barreled action out of the wood. Remove the bolt and disassemble it to inspect the top edge of the cocking piece. Some back country gun fixers (that would include vodka swilling Russians) grind an angle so the safety lever camming surface picks up the cocking piece better. This happens when number-matching original parts are mixed around, usually.

While the barreled action is out of the wood, inspect the trigger and sear. The sear has a spring that keeps it in the UP position until the camming action of the trigger pulls it down to release the cocking piece to fire. Its pretty simple. Look at each part and look for damage or wear patterns that don't look right. The trigger should move freely but with spring tension. If there's stickiness it needs to be removed and cleaned and "worked" until it moves freely. Sometimes lapping compound can be introduced into the workings of the trigger and sear and sear-to-receiver pivot pin to work it smoother. You don't mess with the sear to cocking piece engagement surfaces, but do note their condition. They should be smooth. You can check those contact sufaces by using some marking method like layout dye to see the contact wear engagement area.


I've inspected all of the mentioned parts numerous times and compared with my other Yugo Mauser. Everything looks fine. The trigger works perfectly when the safety is off. It only acts weird when the safety is on.

9/14/2007 4:38:40 AM EDT
[#3]
Anyone else? Is this normal or should I replace the parts?
9/20/2007 2:07:02 AM EDT
[#4]
bump
9/20/2007 11:39:50 AM EDT
[#5]
If you have any other K98s, try switching out the bolts (assuming we are talking RCs here).

You could also try this:

www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=1026880
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