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Posted: 1/10/2014 11:43:02 AM EDT
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Yes im sure these issues had been brought up ad nauseum. Please humor me.
The first issue is sighting in. I have a Simmons 22 magnum scope mounted on it and it seems like once I get close to having it dialed in all of a sudden it goes way off again. Now the scope is on there tight and it didnt loosen up but all of a sudden my shots went a few inches out. Does the barrel get out of whack after it gets warm? And I dont think its me because I did manage to dial in my AR in 9 shots. My second issue is stovepipeing/feeding issues. Is this a common problem? It seemed like every 3-4 shots it would stovepipe and it got annoying. This is the 2nd 10/22 I have owned and sure enough the other one had the same stovepiping issues, thats why I got rid of it. This happens with the factory 10-round as well as my butler creek steel lipped 25-round mags. Maybe its just a Ruger problem because my mini-14 wouldnt hold a zero after 15 shots or so either, another reason I traded it away. Thanks. |
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Is the action screw tight (did it loosen up)?
What ammo are you shooting? Have you tried different brands? Did you clean the action before you started shooting it for the first time? It could have some dried preservative or need lube. Are you sure the base and the rings are tight? |
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A. It's cold right now, even here in VA. .22 autos run like shit under 40degsF, and almost all 22s are inaccurate once it hits 35F or so. Want epic .22 cycling fail? Run a new 10/22 really wet with heavyweight lube and shit ammo like Thunderbolts on a 30deg day. That's pretty much like having a straight pull bolt action.
B. Simmons .22 Mag scopes are iffy. My dad had one with a reticle that canted 20deg clockwise from the turrets at some point for unknown reasons. I had one on a Marlin that reasonably held zero, but adjusting it after 2-3 rounds was folly. It needed to have 20-30rds shot after each adjustment before the erector would seat properly. Short answer...I'm betting it's your scope, not your 10/22. Run it with irons to see if POI shifts over an entire magazine (even if your group is larger). If it stays consistent...you have your answer narrowed down some: either loose rings/base, or a bad scope or both. |
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Quoted:
Is the action screw tight (did it loosen up)? What ammo are you shooting? Have you tried different brands? Did you clean the action before you started shooting it for the first time? It could have some dried preservative or need lube. Are you sure the base and the rings are tight? Quoted:
Is the action screw tight (did it loosen up)? What ammo are you shooting? Have you tried different brands? Did you clean the action before you started shooting it for the first time? It could have some dried preservative or need lube. Are you sure the base and the rings are tight? Everything is tight, It was clean when I shot it. I though it might be the ammo too. The stuff im shooting is old but its not cheap stuff like golden bullets. Quoted:
A. It's cold right now, even here in VA. .22 autos run like shit under 40degsF, and almost all 22s are inaccurate once it hits 35F or so. Want epic .22 cycling fail? Run a new 10/22 really wet with heavyweight lube and shit ammo like Thunderbolts on a 30deg day. That's pretty much like having a straight pull bolt action. B. Simmons .22 Mag scopes are iffy. My dad had one with a reticle that canted 20deg clockwise from the turrets at some point for unknown reasons. I had one on a Marlin that reasonably held zero, but adjusting it after 2-3 rounds was folly. It needed to have 20-30rds shot after each adjustment before the erector would seat properly. Short answer...I'm betting it's your scope, not your 10/22. Run it with irons to see if POI shifts over an entire magazine (even if your group is larger). If it stays consistent...you have your answer narrowed down some: either loose rings/base, or a bad scope or both. Ill try it without the scope. It seemed like it was pretty loopy like that as well. |
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Do your 10 rounders drop free on their own. What ammo? How's the chamber and the paint in the action? Only time i have trouble with cold ammo is when the temps drop to 0F and colder.  I run with a very light coating of TWB25 grease on all my .22 autos. My simmons .22 mag that rides on a marlin 60 and gets beat to death on the snogo is holding up. |
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Quoted:
Do your 10 rounders drop free on their own. What ammo? How's the chamber and the paint in the action? Only time i have trouble with cold ammo is when the temps drop to 0F and colder.
I run with a very light coating of TWB25 grease on all my .22 autos. My simmons .22 mag that rides on a marlin 60 and gets beat to death on the snogo is holding up. I have to push the button but ya they drop out. Ammo was some old stuff but not low quality. When I got it the chamber was gritty, I cleaned it out with a toothbrush and some of the paint came off as well. Mos tof it is there though. |
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A radius on the rear of the bolt helps ejection. |
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Quoted: I have to push the button but ya they drop out. Ammo was some old stuff but not low quality. When I got it the chamber was gritty, I cleaned it out with a toothbrush and some of the paint came off as well. Mos tof it is there though. Quoted: Quoted: Do your 10 rounders drop free on their own. What ammo? How's the chamber and the paint in the action? Only time i have trouble with cold ammo is when the temps drop to 0F and colder. I run with a very light coating of TWB25 grease on all my .22 autos. My simmons .22 mag that rides on a marlin 60 and gets beat to death on the snogo is holding up. I have to push the button but ya they drop out. Ammo was some old stuff but not low quality. When I got it the chamber was gritty, I cleaned it out with a toothbrush and some of the paint came off as well. Mos tof it is there though. Try some new and hotter ammo. I have had trouble with older ammo with the primers. |
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Quoted:
A. It's cold right now, even here in VA. .22 autos run like shit under 40degsF, and almost all 22s are inaccurate once it hits 35F or so. Want epic .22 cycling fail? Run a new 10/22 really wet with heavyweight lube and shit ammo like Thunderbolts on a 30deg day. That's pretty much like having a straight pull bolt action. B. Simmons .22 Mag scopes are iffy. My dad had one with a reticle that canted 20deg clockwise from the turrets at some point for unknown reasons. I had one on a Marlin that reasonably held zero, but adjusting it after 2-3 rounds was folly. It needed to have 20-30rds shot after each adjustment before the erector would seat properly. Short answer...I'm betting it's your scope, not your 10/22. Run it with irons to see if POI shifts over an entire magazine (even if your group is larger). If it stays consistent...you have your answer narrowed down some: either loose rings/base, or a bad scope or both. I just shot my 10/22 when it was 1*F and I didn't have any reliability or accuracy issues... |
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Quoted:
I just shot my 10/22 when it was 1*F and I didn't have any reliability or accuracy issues... Quoted:
Quoted:
A. It's cold right now, even here in VA. .22 autos run like shit under 40degsF, and almost all 22s are inaccurate once it hits 35F or so. Want epic .22 cycling fail? Run a new 10/22 really wet with heavyweight lube and shit ammo like Thunderbolts on a 30deg day. That's pretty much like having a straight pull bolt action. B. Simmons .22 Mag scopes are iffy. My dad had one with a reticle that canted 20deg clockwise from the turrets at some point for unknown reasons. I had one on a Marlin that reasonably held zero, but adjusting it after 2-3 rounds was folly. It needed to have 20-30rds shot after each adjustment before the erector would seat properly. Short answer...I'm betting it's your scope, not your 10/22. Run it with irons to see if POI shifts over an entire magazine (even if your group is larger). If it stays consistent...you have your answer narrowed down some: either loose rings/base, or a bad scope or both. I just shot my 10/22 when it was 1*F and I didn't have any reliability or accuracy issues... x2... I shot last week with our -17 *F windchill and had 0 malfunctions, except for a magazine malfunction. |
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Pull the bolt and see if it has any burrs that could retard bolt movement. Did you disassemble it yourself already? The V block is definitely tight? I have taken it apart and cleaned it, except for the trigger group. Thats a little scary to me. Where is this v-block? Let me guess in the trigger group? |
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Quoted:
I have taken it apart and cleaned it, except for the trigger group. Thats a little scary to me. Where is this v-block? Let me guess in the trigger group? Quoted:
Quoted:
Pull the bolt and see if it has any burrs that could retard bolt movement. Did you disassemble it yourself already? The V block is definitely tight? I have taken it apart and cleaned it, except for the trigger group. Thats a little scary to me. Where is this v-block? Let me guess in the trigger group? Where the barrel meets the receiver. Two cap screws. |
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Quoted:
Where the barrel meets the receiver. Two cap screws. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Pull the bolt and see if it has any burrs that could retard bolt movement. Did you disassemble it yourself already? The V block is definitely tight? I have taken it apart and cleaned it, except for the trigger group. Thats a little scary to me. Where is this v-block? Let me guess in the trigger group? Where the barrel meets the receiver. Two cap screws. Oh that thing ( ), yes that is tight also.
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Learn to remove your bolt so you can check it for burrs and make sure there is not excessive paint or garbage in the receiver. If there is lots of paint and garbage slowing things down try steel wool to slick it up a bit, but don't try and remove all paint and don't use sand paper. A little oil helps keep things smoother.
Sluggish bolt speed is the most common cause of extraction issues in a 10/22. I polish up the top and back side of the bolt on 400 grit wet dry sandpaper and thick oil. Then I might move to 600 grit and oil. I change the rear radius too, but that is a little advanced for this discussion. Check the extractor to see if it moves freely in far enough to bottom out. After market extractors are usually unnecessary. Mine can run fairly well without an extractor at all, but they must be well broken in to do that. I had not seen any of my 10/22's malfunction in years until I lost my extractor in a competition last summer. I think it bobbled 2 rounds out of 40 that day running without it. The next time it stopped twice as well. Check to make sure your hammer strut retainer slot is facing up. You can do this by letting you're hammer forward slowly and them removing your hammer strut/spring. The slot in the retainer should be facing up. |
| Is the ammo a subsonic, standard or HV? Makes a difference. Ruger made these fast and they tend to run better with speedier rounds. I always use a little aircraft paint remover and a small wire brush to remove all paint on the inside of the receiver and very lightly sand and debur the inside. Alsoa $10 Volquartsen extractor will finish up fixing your issues. As far as it wondering after a few shots I will blame the scope. Only way to know is to try a "good" scope. Good luck and watch out for the upgrade bug. Very catchy it is. |
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