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Posted: 8/10/2013 6:03:57 AM EDT
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I'm looking to improve on the factory trigger in my newish 10/22. It breaks pretty cleanly but is heavier than I'd like. I know the go-to option seems to be Volquartsen, but I'd rather not spend more for a new trigger than I did for the rifle.
Any suggestions on mods or replacements that can help? |
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Quoted:
Here is what I did. Pretty slick 2.5 pound trigger. Only took a few minutes to install. Sorry but I don't know how to make link hot. http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=VQVC10TH&src=tpMfg |
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KIDD, KIDD or KIDD. You could go with their single or two stage if money isn't an option, if it is, their trigger job kit works wonders on polymer housings. Those are the three best options IMO....I have one of each btw. Forget Volquartsen...their triggers and trigger kits are junk compared to KIDDs.
www.coolguyguns.com |
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This kit:http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=VQVC10HP worked well for me.
The overtravel stop on the trigger is surprisingly effective. |
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This kit:http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=VQVC10HP worked well for me. The overtravel stop on the trigger is surprisingly effective. x1 did this on 2 and was happy with the results. clown |
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KIDD, KIDD or KIDD. You could go with their single or two stage if money isn't an option, if it is, their trigger job kit works wonders on polymer housings. Those are the three best options IMO....I have one of each btw. Forget Volquartsen...their triggers and trigger kits are junk compared to KIDDs. www.coolguyguns.com I put the kidd trigger job in mine. Night and day difference. I plan on getting their single stage trigger for my other 10/22 |
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I'm not knocking any of the other posters suggestions but if you're not shooting for extreme accuracy and want a nicer trigger that won't break the bank, you could buy a target hammer.
I've done that to several 1022's. Have used both power custom and Volquartsen. Installing only the hammer made a huge difference in trigger pull. Tried the hammer and sear/trigger package once and didn't like the result, trigger was too light. Should be about 35 bucks. |
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Not a knock on Kidd, but I can't help but wonder if a lot of 10-22 owners are a little bit hesitant about taking apart the somewhat intricate trigger group of their rifles and doing a little smoothing-out and polishing on their own, as opposed to a drop-in package.
Again, nothing against Kidd, but buying a high-quality trigger group parts kit from a known decent mfr for maybe 1/3 the price of a complete Kidd TG assy, and then doing a little internal polishing/smoothing, and final assembly using the vendor-supplied TG components and the tweaked OEM parts, which takes maybe a little common sense and a half-hour's time, might be worth an additional $200 that Kidd charges. Then again, Trigger groups are a tricky place to learn. Not to mention that unless your 10-22 is a dedicated range/paper target rifle, you might think twice about a very light trigger pull weight. It's fine if you, and only you, are using your 10-22 as a hole-puncher, or whatever. OTOH, if you just might be loaning it out, even under close supervision, as a training rifle, then a trigger pull weight that is very light might be asking for a negligent discharge to happen. Not to mention that your training 10-22 should replicate the trigger weight-of-pull on your main rifle. |
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I think about it like brakes on my car. I would rather a person that does it every day do it correctly.
I am an industrial engineer and I have no problem putting stuff together and taking it apart and figuring out how it works. I have built a few AR15s(not just the lower but the full uppers too). But I choose not to mess around with the trigger. I would rather what I feel is a good investment on a quality trigger made by a great company. What is wrong with light trigger pull? My AR has a pull weight of 3.5 lbs. You do know they sell different weight springs for the kidd triggers? I personally think someone that is not properly trained on firearms safety should not hold a gun. There should not be a finger on the trigger unless you are ready to shoot no matter the trigger weight. Quoted:
Not a knock on Kidd, but I can't help but wonder if a lot of 10-22 owners are a little bit hesitant about taking apart the somewhat intricate trigger group of their rifles and doing a little smoothing-out and polishing on their own, as opposed to a drop-in package. Again, nothing against Kidd, but buying a high-quality trigger group parts kit from a known decent mfr for maybe 1/3 the price of a complete Kidd TG assy, and then doing a little internal polishing/smoothing, and final assembly using the vendor-supplied TG components and the tweaked OEM parts, which takes maybe a little common sense and a half-hour's time, might be worth an additional $200 that Kidd charges. Then again, Trigger groups are a tricky place to learn. Not to mention that unless your 10-22 is a dedicated range/paper target rifle, you might think twice about a very light trigger pull weight. It's fine if you, and only you, are using your 10-22 as a hole-puncher, or whatever. OTOH, if you just might be loaning it out, even under close supervision, as a training rifle, then a trigger pull weight that is very light might be asking for a negligent discharge to happen. Not to mention that your training 10-22 should replicate the trigger weight-of-pull on your main rifle. |
| Power Custom has a nice hammer and sear pack that will give you a < 3lb trigger. I installed one on my father-in-law's rifle last week. It is a nice pack. The trigger plunger spring that came with the set was too strong for his rifle and would not let the trigger pull all the way back. This resulted in the inability to release the hammer with the trigger pull. Replaced that spring with the factory spring and it worked like a charm. |
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Quoted:
This kit:http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=VQVC10HP worked well for me. The overtravel stop on the trigger is surprisingly effective. I installed this kit on my sons and mine and we both love it. |
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When you say "newish" is it a plastic trigger housing? Yeah. I've probably had it two years. FWIW, I ended up getting this hammer, sear, and spring set from Cabelas. Not real high-dollar but the trigger is noticeably improved with it installed. |
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Quoted:
I think about it like brakes on my car. I would rather a person that does it every day do it correctly. I am an industrial engineer and I have no problem putting stuff together and taking it apart and figuring out how it works. I have built a few AR15s(not just the lower but the full uppers too). But I choose not to mess around with the trigger. I would rather what I feel is a good investment on a quality trigger made by a great company. What is wrong with light trigger pull? My AR has a pull weight of 3.5 lbs. You do know they sell different weight springs for the kidd triggers? I personally think someone that is not properly trained on firearms safety should not hold a gun. There should not be a finger on the trigger unless you are ready to shoot no matter the trigger weight. Quoted:
I think about it like brakes on my car. I would rather a person that does it every day do it correctly. I am an industrial engineer and I have no problem putting stuff together and taking it apart and figuring out how it works. I have built a few AR15s(not just the lower but the full uppers too). But I choose not to mess around with the trigger. I would rather what I feel is a good investment on a quality trigger made by a great company. What is wrong with light trigger pull? My AR has a pull weight of 3.5 lbs. You do know they sell different weight springs for the kidd triggers? I personally think someone that is not properly trained on firearms safety should not hold a gun. There should not be a finger on the trigger unless you are ready to shoot no matter the trigger weight. Quoted:
Not a knock on Kidd, but I can't help but wonder if a lot of 10-22 owners are a little bit hesitant about taking apart the somewhat intricate trigger group of their rifles and doing a little smoothing-out and polishing on their own, as opposed to a drop-in package. Again, nothing against Kidd, but buying a high-quality trigger group parts kit from a known decent mfr for maybe 1/3 the price of a complete Kidd TG assy, and then doing a little internal polishing/smoothing, and final assembly using the vendor-supplied TG components and the tweaked OEM parts, which takes maybe a little common sense and a half-hour's time, might be worth an additional $200 that Kidd charges. Then again, Trigger groups are a tricky place to learn. Not to mention that unless your 10-22 is a dedicated range/paper target rifle, you might think twice about a very light trigger pull weight. It's fine if you, and only you, are using your 10-22 as a hole-puncher, or whatever. OTOH, if you just might be loaning it out, even under close supervision, as a training rifle, then a trigger pull weight that is very light might be asking for a negligent discharge to happen. Not to mention that your training 10-22 should replicate the trigger weight-of-pull on your main rifle. I wouldn't ask anyone to exceed their own personal comfort level. Personally speaking, I didn't give a second thought to installing a VQ kit, but that's just me. Naturally I safety-tested it before calling the job complete. YMMV. As for too-light trigger pulls, IMHO, there is a (limited) time and place for very light triggers, and that is on the shooting range/bench, and not in the field. How light is too light is determined in part by the overall design of the mechanism, with some designs having lower safe limits than others. The other part of the equation is determined by the use to which the firearm will be put. For example, a firearm used only in the shooting range bench will is not as likely to be carried and perhaps jarred or even dropped than is the same firearm when being used in the field. The main point is that past a certain (variable) point an action that has been modified to be too light can be unsafe, depending on circumstances. While firearms safety-training is of paramount importance, I have witnessed experienced shooters who, when using firearms altered to have very light weight trigger pulls inadvertently fire the weapon. Mostly this was due to unfamiliarity with the firearm. Generally speaking, this business of getting a very light weight of pull is overdone. I have shot glass-smooth 8# triggers that delivered better results than not-so-smooth triggers of much less pull weight. Way back when, there used to be a thriving market for a device called the trigger shoe. This gizmo was simply slipped onto the trigger, and a couple of small allen screws tightened from the side kept it in place. All this thing did was to increase the width of the trigger where the user's finger contacted same. The actual trigger pull weight didn't change, but the user-perceived trigger pull weight seemed considerably less. I could take a standard 10-22 trigger assy in good repair, do maybe 5 minutes of polishing with a dremel tool, clean it, properly lube it, and install a wide trigger with an over-travel screw. No parts changed except the trigger. Total time from start to finish maybe about 20 minutes, tops. Without a trigger pull gauge, most users would think that a very nice full-scale trigger job had been done. |
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