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Posted: 12/10/2010 7:52:28 AM EDT
So I came across this stock the other day....
And I was wondering if i could do something similar to a 10/22 stock. I was thinking about cutting the shape out I want, then using 2 pieces of aluminum rod to raise the cut-out. I would drill 4 holes into the stock (2 in the bottom and 2 in the top), and would then epoxy the rods in place after I cut them to length. It would be fixed in height, and I would think pretty sturdy. I used my not-so-masterful MS Paint skills to make something that would give you an idea as to what I am looking to do 
So what do you guys think? Good Idea? Bad Idea? I know I can get a comb riser or an aftermarket stock, but I like the factory one. |
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Do you have trouble seeing through a scope on a stock 10/22? There are a zillion ways to raise the cheek rest shown in your sketch. I wouldn't do it if the only reason is "cool look", because you may find yourself needing high rings. If you give this a try, I recommend you drill two holes from the top of the stock before cutting out the cheek rest. Keeping two holes parallel will probably be enough challenge, getting four holes in alignment and parallel will be close to impossible. The holes in the top get plugged afterwards, or I would probably counterbore them and use allen head screws to rig an adjustable set up. |
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Very few rifles, even today, even among those supplied with no iron sights are really stocked for scope use.
On classic sporting rifles, the cheek weld with irons is quite solid, NOTHING like that of even high dollar hunting rifles ( I'm thinking Remington 700s with HS or other premium stocks here). At proper height for scope use, yiou can't get low enough to use irons. A 10/22 can use nearly an inch more comb for even the very lowest mount. This business of a "jaw weld" or "chin weld" is just an expedient to enable a badly suboptimal setup. |
| You should also think through how you are going to make that cut in the 10/22 stock. It's easy to do on MS Paint, but making the turn to the horizontal cut at the bottom of the angled vertical cut isn't going be easy to do without messing something up. If you can make a clean cut of the cheek piece, the rest should be easy. I agree with making it adjustable so you can raise and lower the cheek piece as needed. |
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Looks like more of a hassle than it is worth. +1 There are some options: Ruger adjustable stock But then, its always more fun to do it yourself. |
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You should also think through how you are going to make that cut in the 10/22 stock. It's easy to do on MS Paint, but making the turn to the horizontal cut at the bottom of the angled vertical cut isn't going be easy to do without messing something up. If you can make a clean cut of the cheek piece, the rest should be easy. I agree with making it adjustable so you can raise and lower the cheek piece as needed. my suggestions........draw your cut lines on your stock. at the corners, drill straight through the stock with a fairly small drill, not to small, probably about 1/8 of an inch. then using a scroll saw with a fine blade (and make sure it is a quality blade, ie: flying dutchman) you can cut that out and have enough room to turn in your pre-drilled corners. big thing is making sure it is all level while doing this. |
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To answer some of your question, yes, I am running a scope, and yes, I am getting a "chin weld".
I was thinking about doing this as it would be something different that nobody else has done, and from the issues you guys are addressing. I can see why it has not been done. I could try to round the corners of the "riser" portion to make the cutting easier. I do agree with "ILove2Shoot", in that I should drill the holes through the stock before I cut so I can have them prefectly lined up. I think it would be doable, but I do agree, it's gonna be a pain. If I was just doing this on a 10/22 stock, I would probably go for it, but the stock I would be doing it on is a factory 10/22 Magnum birch stock, and I dont want to FUBAR the stock. I guess it looks and sounds like a good idea, but exicution of it will deffinitly be a bit of a pain. One other thing I was thinking was to have the holes in the lower stock all the way through, and have the "pins" mounted securely on the top portion. Then use some threaded inserts with larger knobs going prependicular to the side of the stock that would lock up the "pins", so adjustment would be done by loosening the side knobs, moving the comb up or down, and then tightening them. |
| why not look at doing some like the Karsten Cheek Rests..... karsten cheek rest.......it is a u shaped Kydex cheek rest with 2 bolts going through the stock to hold it in place. there are adjustment slots to move it up and down. only thing you do is to drill the 2 holes in your stock........while these are not designed for your stock, it is the idea that would get you were you want..... |
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It can be done, Brownells sells parts just for that mod. Search "adjustable comb"
Here is a link to some parts http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6722/Product/ADJUSTABLE_COMB_HARDWARE I did something similar to a M1A stock a few years back, wish I kept a pic as I sold the rifle long ago. The thing about it is at the time stocks were cheap so I got 2 from fred's and used the crappy one to make the comb out of. Becasue of the holes in the stock for the cleaning kit I had to use some dowels and epoxy to plug them, but it turned out real nice. The problem I see is the stupid angle on the 10/22 stock. for the mod to be effective you need a straighter comb. |
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I drilled support rod holes up from the toe line , then band sawed the cheekpiece off a Tyrolean stock in order to use spacers on the rods to get the height right.
A Tyrolean cheekpiece has a big curve and I just followed the curve. The cuts need not be flat for functionality or appearance. |
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