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Posted: 2/3/2009 9:40:55 PM EDT
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OOOOh I bet people came in here ready to ride for their custom builds but im not starting a war here Im pretty new to guns (like 2 years in now) and bought my first rifle (10-22T) a few months ago. I have no garage and amn constanstly learning guns so I opted for the hooked up gun instead of gunsmithing myself. Well Now that I know alot more about the 10 22 I feel I can upgrade, Triggers: I know theres drop in kit's. do they only help out the pull? whats the weight for a 10 22T pull as opposed to a Valquartzen upgrade what does the sear do? Does changing the actual trigger help anything?
what about the bolt handle/rod/spring. I know the handle is cosmetic but what about the spring and rod? are they better then the T's? what do they do? Now im hearing about V-blocks and bedding's do I need these? Thank you all in advance im sure alot of this has been asked before but I cant figure out how to search through past articles. I didnt mention the barrel cause im cool with mine and Ive already been schooled on extractors |
| I faced a similar situation when I decided to get a 10/22. I decided to build one myself, instead of getting the 10/22T. I read a lot about the gun and made a list of things I wanted to do. I got a Green Mountain stainless, fluted barrel and a Hogue stock. I tried exchanging trigger parts, but couldn't get the trigger I wanted. I finally got a Kidd trigger. IMO, it is by far the best, but it is expensive. I also got a cleaned up bolt from CPC, modified a 10/22 magnum bolt handle and made a spring guide from a 10/22 magnum spring guide by cutting a groove for a C clip. Perhaps I need to do some bedding, but with only a Weaver 2x7 rimfire scope, it seems accurate enough. I was left with a pile of parts, with no receiver, so I found a place that sells Ruger receivers and put together a stock gun from my parts. |
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Quoted:
OOOOh I bet people came in here ready to ride for their custom builds but im not starting a war here Im pretty new to guns (like 2 years in now) and bought my first rifle (10-22T) a few months ago. I have no garage and amn constanstly learning guns so I opted for the hooked up gun instead of gunsmithing myself. Well Now that I know alot more about the 10 22 I feel I can upgrade, Triggers: I know theres drop in kit's. do they only help out the pull? whats the weight for a 10 22T pull as opposed to a Valquartzen upgrade what does the sear do? Does changing the actual trigger help anything?
Aftermarket triggers generally do two things, reduce trigger weight and improve feel. It is possible to have a light mushy trigger as well as a crisp heavy trigger. Most after market takes the best of both of these and combines them. Changing the actual trigger can help also. If it has a overtravel adjustment it can greatly improve the feel of the trigger although generally it won't affect weight or crispness, that is determined by the sear, disconnect and hammer. The sear is the part that contacts the hammer, it can have some affect on trigger pull. The hammer engagement angle has more of an affect on the trigger pull than the sear. If you buy an after market hammer and sear make sure they are from the same company because some do not work with others. what about the bolt handle/rod/spring. I know the handle is cosmetic but what about the spring and rod? are they better then the T's? what do they do? Generally, aftermarket guide rods are much better quality. Rather than being a simple piece of heavy wire they are machinced and finished to a very smooth finish. This helps with the cycling. I have never bought or used an aftermarket one but I have polished the factory one. Now im hearing about V-blocks and bedding's do I need these? If you install a heavy aftermarket barrel you get a condition called barrel droop. This is cause by a loose fit between the barrel shank and the receiver. The factory V-block only holds the barrel against the receiver and does not support the extra weight of the heavy barrel. An adjustable V-block will correct this oncdition by using a set screw in the block to apply upward pressure on the barrel. So in essence the V-block is providing both rearward and upward pressure on the barrel to make it more stable. Bedding is not required for most but it is a tool to squeeze the last little bit of accuracy out of a target rifle. It may not work with your particular rifle either, I had a very accurate rifle that when bedded lost its accuracy. Something that I have found to work as well as bedding is to use a pressure pad under the barrel. I generally use a foam earplug and place it at the end of the stock and shoot a few groups. I move it back an inch then shoot some more groups. I continue moving it back an inch at a time until I find the spot that gives the best accuracy. If you change ammo you may have to go through this process again to fine tune your rifle. Bolt buffer to me is a must have. It makes the gun feel so much better. I'm not usre if it helps functioning, I doubt it. It removes the clunk you hear at every shot and your rifle seems more refined. Thank you all in advance im sure alot of this has been asked before but I cant figure out how to search through past articles. I didnt mention the barrel cause im cool with mine and Ive already been schooled on extractors |
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DOLO, YOU THE MAN!!! I have never fired one so I don;t know, any aftermarket trigger or parts will be better than the factory. Would the 10 22T have barrel droop or is that something ruger takes care of when they put on the big barrel? Ruger doesn't use an adjustable block so barrel droop is a posibility.. Ive heard alot about different bufers. which is considered the best? Any will work but I use Weaponkraft buffers. Dolomite |
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Nice =) any pix? I dont want to spend too much on the gun as I spent alot by picking the T over the regular 10 22. Whats the trigger pull like on the kidd's? was that just a trigger or the whole trigger assembly? The KIDD trigger can be adjusted to many different weights. I don't know if the newer ones come in different classes (sporter weight, target, etc.) but the one I had could be dialed down to a few ounces. It is in a whole different league than other aftermarket triggers, and I believe it is on par with a trigger from an Anschutz 54, etc. It is also very strong and durable, unlike some custom triggers on certain target rifles. On the other hand, it is damn expensive for a 10/22 trigger. I sold the old rifle and plan on building another, cheaper 10/22. When I do, I'll get the VQ hammer and leave it at that. |
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DOLO, my 22T has a piece right under the barrel (it looks just like the v block stabalizers they sell on rimfire central, its just one piece screwed in with two screws) Ill post pics later but I think thats it. or do they all come with them? they look just like this
http://www.rimfiretechnologies.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AVB001 A-rob. yeah thats alot of money to spend. I mean I paid alot to buy the target one to still cough up a bunch of money on things I thought I wouldnt need. I saw this http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=11&t=267133 ( Not sure if it'll come out as a shortcut need to learn this site) And its pretty expensive too. I might go with the VQ hammer and sear but Id like to know if the one on the 10 22T is supposed to be a better version to begin with. |
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