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9/12/2011 10:19:38 AM EDT
Hi I'm not sure if this is where I should post this or not but here goes.

I just finished making a kydex and leather holster but I didn't know how to go about cutting the belt slots. I've worked with kydex but never leather. So how do I cut the slots?

I melted a dotted line in place of the slots so you can see what I mean. The kydex layer is backed by 1/4" leather.

I'm also open to any other suggestions.


Please excuse the really bad crossed rifles I thought I'd give it a shot.
9/12/2011 11:32:19 AM EDT
[#1]
I'm not a leather working expert, but I know for fact I could cut it out nicely with a dremel.   Start the hole with a drill.  



Experiment until you find the right bit and rpm to give you controllability and a clean cut without burning.






9/12/2011 2:51:23 PM EDT
[#2]
As noted, experiment on a spare piece of kydex before proceeding, and one that has the same thickness as the original.

The exact configuration of the belt slit in the kydex, both length of slit and width of the slit opening, are dependant on the belt that will be used for the holster.  If the slit is not long enough, the belt will not fit.  Too narrow a slit width, and the inserted belt will put stress on the kydex.  Too wide a slit, and the belt will be loose, and the holster will slide on the belt.  Again, this is something on which you will have to experiment.

One thing I would definitely do, once you have determined the correct length and width of belt slit, is to drill holes at either end of the slit first, then connect the holes with your chosen tool.  The holes, whose diameter can be maybe twice the width if the selt slit, are important because their being round acts as a stress- relief with respect to the kydex, and the holes will greatly help prevent the kydex from cracking/tearing at the ends of the slit.

So, experiment first on scrap material.  By the time you have things figured out, doing the job itself will be a snap.

Speaking of snaps, depending on the belt, you can fit one or more male snaps to the belt itself, and an appropriate number of female snaps to the holster.  Doing so will anchor the holster on the belt, prevent it from sliding, and the snaps in the belt itself will not prevent the belt from being used without the holster.
9/12/2011 3:22:47 PM EDT
[#3]
DO NOT DRILL LEATHER UNLESS YOU ARE WEARING A FACE MASK AS THE DUST IS CARCINOGENIC

OK

The correct tool is called a slot punch - but as you don't want to spend money on such an item for a one-off use - try to get a round hole punch.
You'll also need a sharp stanley/craft knife & a straight edged steel rule

At the end of each belt loop slot, punch a round hole
Using the steel rule, mark straight lines from the top & bottom holes
Use the craft knife to cut the lines out, therefore making slots

Trim the 90-degree edges a little with the craft knife

You can also moisten the edges of the leather & then apply pressure with a hardwood dowel or piece of bone/antler - this compresses the fibres & makes the item more durable

Get back to me if you need more info

9/12/2011 3:36:59 PM EDT
[#4]
Thank you for all of the replies.

In respect to stressing the kydex, should I move the front slot to the rear (towards the pistol) more?

That snap idea is a good one thank you. I think I might sew velcro onto the back of the leather since I wear an older model blackhawk riggers belt and its covered in velcro already.

Also should I stitch around the beltloop holes or will it be ok? The Easter and kydex are bonded with cement along with the stitching.

Quoted:



You can also moisten the edges of the leather & then apply pressure with a hardwood dowel or piece of bone/antler - this compresses the fibres & makes the item more durable




Can you explain this a little more?

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