Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
Armory Sponsor
6/28/2011 5:24:48 PM EDT
I finally got around to cleaning my used Benelli M1014 (early M4) the other day and I have experience a problem that I have never encountered on any other Benelli.

When I removed the bolt the spring inside the back of the receiver / stock sprung some how that plunger that kept the spring inside the receiver worked loose and I do not know how to re-install it.

Any help
6/28/2011 9:02:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Post this on the Benelli forum. Many people there will be able to help.
6/28/2011 9:43:53 PM EDT
[#2]


If I understand you, you disassembled the recoil tube which is part number 120.

Part #44 is a snap ring. Part #45 is a threaded screw that retains the spring. Part #119 is the spring. Part #47 is the plunger. If the plunger is pushing through the recoil tube and into the receiver, there is a problem. My guess is #49 is damaged or missing.

Inspect this part of the recoil tube, you don't need to remove the tube to see if it is present.


6/29/2011 5:27:23 AM EDT
[#3]
Fixing it has already been discussed.

I will discuss prevention.

Blast that area out with WD40 or synthetic safe gun scrubber, and then hit it with some CLP. Contrary to what people say, WD40 is not some evil thing. It's a light mineral oil and Stoddard solvent mixed with propellant. It will fully evaporate in a few days. That is the reason for the CLP.

There is no need to take this assy. apart unless you dropped it in a trench full of muck or something extreme.
6/29/2011 11:57:48 AM EDT
[#4]
Flushing out the recoil tube from time to time is a good idea. Re-lubricating the internals can be difficult to do without disassembling though. I recommend that the recoil tube be disassembled every 5000 rounds. At this time, the main spring should be replaced. A weak spring often exhibits itself when the bolt will cycle to the rear, then get hung up on the hammer. The user is then required to hit the bolt handle forward to push the next shell into the chamber.

The recoil tube is pretty easy to disassemble. Remove the stock. Remove the snap ring from the bottom of the recoil tube. Insert a punch through the drainage holes of the bottom of the recoil tube to remove the spring tension from the plug. The plug can be difficult to unscrew since it isn't a normal flat-head screw driver. I've used a tool for removing paint lids, and the prongs from the snap ring pliers in the past. A specialized tool would be ideal, I've heard Kip from carriercomp has actually been considering making one.

Once the plug is removed, capture the spring as you remove the punch. The plunger will then slide out.

I find that a lot of debris collects in the recoil tube. The tail of the bolt carrier tends to drag debris in while cycling. Flush everything out with BreakFree or something equivalent. Re-lubricate the assembly lightly with a quality lubricant. You want a lubricant that has some consistency so it will stay where you put it. I wouldn't use thick grease since it might slow down the action. I've been pleased with Machinegunner's lubricant that LaRue sells.

Reassembly is pretty straight forward. Just follow the dis-assembly steps in reverse.
6/29/2011 11:41:11 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Flushing out the recoil tube from time to time is a good idea. Re-lubricating the internals can be difficult to do without disassembling though. I recommend that the recoil tube be disassembled every 5000 rounds. At this time, the main spring should be replaced. A weak spring often exhibits itself when the bolt will cycle to the rear, then get hung up on the hammer. The user is then required to hit the bolt handle forward to push the next shell into the chamber.

The recoil tube is pretty easy to disassemble. Remove the stock. Remove the snap ring from the bottom of the recoil tube. Insert a punch through the drainage holes of the bottom of the recoil tube to remove the spring tension from the plug. The plug can be difficult to unscrew since it isn't a normal flat-head screw driver. I've used a tool for removing paint lids, and the prongs from the snap ring pliers in the past. A specialized tool would be ideal, I've heard Kip from carriercomp has actually been considering making one.

Once the plug is removed, capture the spring as you remove the punch. The plunger will then slide out.

I find that a lot of debris collects in the recoil tube. The tail of the bolt carrier tends to drag debris in while cycling. Flush everything out with BreakFree or something equivalent. Re-lubricate the assembly lightly with a quality lubricant. You want a lubricant that has some consistency so it will stay where you put it. I wouldn't use thick grease since it might slow down the action. I've been pleased with Machinegunner's lubricant that LaRue sells.

Reassembly is pretty straight forward. Just follow the dis-assembly steps in reverse.


I agree with all of the above except that CLP foams from a spray can and will fully lubricate the internals of the recoil tube assy.
Armory Sponsor