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Posted: 12/31/2008 5:36:23 PM EDT
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I am used to a Hogue 12" LOP on my 870P (excellent stock by the way) but want to transition to the Benelli system. I purchased an M2 and want to reduce the LOP. I have looked everywhere and have not found anyone who can or will attempt this.
Has anyone done this or knows someone who does it? Any ideas? I have tried Robar and Benny Hill-both say no. Ive Googled so much my wife is now pissed off. I do not want to go back to a straight stock, but would consider it with the right LOP. Still none of these available from what I can find. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks |
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There was a guy on HKpro that posted on how he cut his down to 13.5" LOP (it was in the members lounge, so its not searchable)
Since the rubber grip is basically just screwed in, you will have to modify the rubber pad to fit, AND re measure drill the holes into the plastic stock. Its not an easy fix, but its definatly doable. I wish they offered stocks in shorter lengths, jeeze the things feel like they are meant for giants 
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I was actually pondering this same question the other day.
I'm not a short guy (6'3), but the benelli's lop still isn't even close to ideal. A shorter lop would hugely improve my m2 tactical... eta: anyone know what the lop is on the stocks speedfeed makes for benelli's? |
I just did my stock on my 870 which came out perfect,IMO.I cut it so it would finish out at 12.75" LOP with my MI single point sling plate.I should of took pics as I did it but I didn't.I've tried to explain how I did it below.I used JB Weld and a medium grind-to-fit Houge butt pad.It's really pretty easy.
1.Use wide masking tape to tape around stock where the cut will be made. I used the blue stuff you can find at Lowes. 2.Mark the stock where the cut will be made. 3.Using a miter saw cut the stock ¼” longer then where your mark is. This is not your finish cut. You will have to shim the narrow end of the stock until it raises it enough to be plumb/square to the blade (I just wrapped some 1” masking tape around the neck until it was the appropriate height). With the straight top part of the stock tight to the fence; adjust the blade degree to duplicate the correct angle. Make your cut. 4.Use some 80 grit sand paper to rough the plastic so the JB Weld can “grab” .The gray area in the picture shows approximately where the epoxy will go. 5.Use a toothbrush and some degreaser (I used Simple Green and dish soap) to wash the stock clean. Flush and rinse it good with hot water in a sink. Let it dry. 6.Use some rubbing alcohol or acetone and wipe the area where the epoxy will bond. 7.Using the same wide blue masking tape, tape off the end of the stock about a ½” higher than where your screw hole will be. 8.Mix the epoxy. 9.Using a small putting knife or whatever; apply the epoxy to the area. Have something to prop the stock up on an angle and allow the epoxy to “pool” in the desired area. You will have to allow the one side to harden before being able to flip it over to do the other side. 10.Once the epoxy has hardened remove the two pieces of tape that you used to “dam” up the epoxy. Do not remove the initial tape you put around the stock. 11.Cut the stock to your finished length. A good carbide tip blade like a 10” 40T will give you a good smooth cut. 12.Use a ¼” glass plate or other perfectly flat object with some 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out the cut. You can skip this step but it does make a nicer finished product. I went all the way down to 2000 grit paper. 13.Use the butt pad to mark your holes. I taped the butt pad to the stock and used a trim nail to mark my holes. 14.Drill your holes smaller then the screws you intend to use. 15.Tap the holes by running one of the screws in the hole. 16.Knock off any raised area from drilling and tapping the holes on your flat plate/sandpaper. 17.Screw your butt pad to the stock. 18.Using a belt sander grind the butt pad as close to the stock as possible. Take your time. Do not burn through the tape. I used my Porter Cable belt sander and clamped it to a table. Also be careful because the belt sander will want to grab the rubber pad. 19.Once you have it close, hand sand it the rest of the way. 20.Remove the pad and clean it up some more with the sand paper. I used up to 2000 grit to get the plastic spacer thingy nice and shiny. 21.Clean your stock and pad up in the sink and the install it. 
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If you need help let me know.Good luck.
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