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Posted: 4/23/2005 8:01:32 PM EDT
| I recently purchased a used 870P in great shape except for a problem I'm having with the trigger and slide lock-up. If you slightly pull back on the forearm and pull the trigger the slide stays locked up. The trigger also feels as if it doesn't go all the way to the rear and if you take pressure off the forearm the slide still stays locked if you don't release the trigger. However, there is a noticable "click" in the trigger when pressure is slightly taken off of it and at that point it will move all the way to the rear and then unlocks the slide. I hope someone can understand what I'm talking about here and make a suggestion to correct the problem. This is a serious concern because it causes slide lock-up during shooting. Should I just replace the entire trigger plate assembly? If so, what parts actually comes with the trigger plate assembly? Hammer, springs, etc.? I was going to order one from Midway, but they do not say if I have to purchase the hammer, etc. Thanks for any help or suggestions. |
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In all likelihood, you won't need to spend money on a new trigger plate assembly. Here's some things to do first; First, the 870 WILL remain locked as long as you maintain back pressure on the forearm, BUT should release as soon as you ease off the pressure. First thing to check is for burs or roughness on the bolt's locking lug and the locking lug recess in the barrel extension. If the top rear of the locking lug, or the lug's locking recess in the barrel are rough or burred, the bolt will not unlock smoothly. If you find any roughness, use a fine stone to JUST remove and smooth both parts, but DO NOT remove significant metal. You just want them to be smooth. Second, check out the trigger assembly to be sure it's properly assembled, and the "legs" of the trigger bar are properly positioned ON TOP of the action release bar. These "legs" are on the left side of the trigger assembly. The leg pointing forward is the trigger bar, the leg pointing backward is the action release. Any roughness, breaks, mis-assembly, or other problems, and the action release won't unlock the bolt properly. Next, uncock the hammer by easing it forward. Check the trigger to be sure it's moving freely, and isn't being hung up on either the sear, the action release (as above) or the safety. Often people mis-assemble or alter things which cause trouble. If the safety is altered, or mis-assembled, or the large split bushing at the extreme rear of the plate is missing or damaged, the trigger may hang up. Check the fit and action of the front "nose" of the trigger assembly to the sear. There is a spring joining the two assemblies, and if it's damaged or kinked the trigger may not operate properly. Check the fit and action of the action release. This is the part you press to open a cocked gun, and it interfaces with the trigger, as explained above. It should move freely up and down with no hangups. Cock the hammer, and test the action by pulling the trigger and easing it forward. When the trigger is pulled, the hammer should release, AND the action release should operate. (Note there is a slight "catch" as the hammer moves forward). Pull the trigger and HOLD IT BACK, as you cock the hammer. The hammer should be caught and held by the sear. Release the trigger, and the sear and trigger should reset. IF you can't find the problem, I'd recommend buying a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The Remington Shotguns 870 and 1100: A Shop Manual". Midway and Brownell's carry this, and this will positively allow you to diagnose and fix the gun. Money WELL spent for a Remington owner, if nothing else as a general reference. If you decide to buy a trigger plate assembly, it'll come complete, since the hammer and action release are riveted in place. However, 870 trigger plate assemblies that require complete replacement are RARE. Such is the 870 design strength, I've never seen an assembly that couldn't be repaired by replacing one or two parts, unless the entire assembly was so badly damaged it was simply broken beyond repair. In other words, don't spend money on a new plate assembly unless you just want to "cut to the chase" and save time. First though, I'd look at the things described above, to see if you can't find the problem. The gunsmith's Golden Rule is: NEVER alter or replace ANYTHING, until you know EXACTLY what the problems is". There's a good chance you could buy a new plate assembly, only to find it's not the problem. |
Not my 870P. Dry fire it while pulling back on the forearm and it unlocks immediately upon pulling the trigger. When firing live ammo, the bolt thrust from the fired shell holds the locking lug in the barrel extenstion recess until pressure drops, then any backpressure on the forearm causes the bolt to release. In fact, the forearm on my 870P comes back about halfway after firing without intentionally pulling back on it, but rather, just from the normal tension from your extended arm holding the weapon against your shoulder. |
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