Posted: 1/25/2011 3:05:04 PM EDT
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Anyone have a link to that do-it-yourself Buckmark trigger job that entails swapping a spring around? I can't seem to find it & I just got a used Buckmark I want to try it on.
Thanks! |
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It's in this thread and this thread may help also. I hope to do this tomorrow, as my buckmark needs a good take-down cleaning after about 2k rounds.
ETA: For those that have done it, how hard is it? I have an extra trigger with overtravel screw to install also. |
easy, just drift out the sear spring pin and flip the sear spring over upsides down and shove the pin back in. You may want to bend the spring some to get some resistance on the normal contact parts to ensure the trigger rests with a degree of authority. My factory 5lb trigger has dropped to a crisp clean 2.75lb with the simple flip .
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Quoted:
You may want to bend the spring some to get some resistance on the normal contact parts to ensure the trigger rests with a degree of authority. Since I haven't seen the spring, what exactly does this mean? Do you mean to bend the spring back out or what? Thanks! |
| bob, first do the flip without bending. Observe whether or not theres any tension like the original factory configuration. Generally theres very little spring compression when you do the flip so you want some springiness otherwise the trigger (sear)wont reset after firing or will reset slowly, especially in cold weather or when the area gets crudded up after many shots. You dont need to do much other than bend the spring legs back some so when you put it back in place(flipped) it has a little tension. Otherwise without bending the legs the sear spring will be loose and not very effective at resetting the sear. |
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Quoted:
bob, first do the flip without bending. Observe whether or not theres any tension like the original factory configuration. Generally theres very little spring compression when you do the flip so you want some springiness otherwise the trigger (sear)wont reset after firing or will reset slowly, especially in cold weather or when the area gets crudded up after many shots. You dont need to do much other than bend the spring legs back some so when you put it back in place(flipped) it has a little tension. Otherwise without bending the legs the sear spring will be loose and not very effective at resetting the sear. Clear as mud now. 
Anyone got a pic? 
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Quoted: It's in this thread and this thread may help also. I hope to do this tomorrow, as my buckmark needs a good take-down cleaning after about 2k rounds. ETA: For those that have done it, how hard is it? I have an extra trigger with overtravel screw to install also. Be careful with that setup, I was getting some double and triples out of it.  I ended up switching back to the normal trigger, although I honestly can't remember if my spring is still backwards or not. I will say the trigger feels great. |
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Well, I can detail strip a 1911 (& have) for cleaning. I often fix killthewabbit's issues with his guns & so on & so forth. I also installed all new springs in my Beretta 92's with no real issues. But as they say, a pic is worth a thousand words...........
I'll work on it tonight, I think. |
| bob, I dont have a camera nor would I know how to post pics as I'm a computer dummy, but I recall there was a thread with illustrations of the sear spring flip on rimfirecentral.com. That site is a bit more helpful and professional when it comes to 22 rimfires. |
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Well, I broke down & did it tonight. I did a semi-detailed strip (first time ever for me with a Buckmark) & only left the hammer & safety in the frame. Took everything else out & holy shit!! was it dirty!!!!!!
I did get this one used & the previous owner must've NEVER cleaned the thing at all! 
I did have to refer to the rimfire central thread about which way to turn the sear spring but other than that, I didn't have too much of a problem. I'd say the trigger pull dropped to about half or maybe better than what it was before. Some of the drop is no doubt due to the cleaning/lubing the internals. I had to dump & refresh my solvent three times as it was so filthy. A pox on those who sell a gun when it's filthy............. 
Can't wait to shoot it next week! |
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We love our Buck Marks. We shoot Speed Steel with them. I had to buy my girlfriend one so I could get mine back! Hers with the comp we are designing... A couple of questions, if I may? Why a comp on a .22? Seems like the recoil/muzzle flip is pretty close to next to nothing, IMO. Why swap bbl's from the OEM version? I can't imagine TacSol being any more accurate than the Browning bull bbl? |
To the OP. The Tac Sol barrels are SO much lighter than the stock Buckmark barrels. Here is my Buckmark. I did the trigger job. It's almost too light now. I may have to adjust it a little in the future. I have also taken the fiber optic front sight off in favor of the regular Tac Sol front sight.
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Well, went to the range today to test fire the Buckmark. Had repeated failures to cock the hammer for some odd reason. A fresh rd would chamber & I could rack the slide manually & cock it (but ejecting a rd, obviously) but it wouldn't go more than 2-3rds before I have to rack the slide. Pissed me off.
Did I reassemble the recoil spring incorrectly with the triangular plastic end upside down & causing it to drag on the slide, thus causing a short stroke? Or did my flipping the sear spring upside down cause it to have too little pressure on the hammer now? I'm confused & irked. |
| bob, you seem on the right track. Check to see if the recoil spring with triangle plastic is set correct and ensure the top sight strap is completely level and snug to the slide and frame. If the trigger isnt resetting then you need to bend the legs of the sear spring for a bit more pressure on the contact points that reset the parts after each shot. Cold weather and built up crud can affect this trigger job more easily due to the lower spring pressure when flipped. |
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Quoted:
bob, you seem on the right track. Check to see if the recoil spring with triangle plastic is set correct and ensure the top sight strap is completely level and snug to the slide and frame. If the trigger isnt resetting then you need to bend the legs of the sear spring for a bit more pressure on the contact points that reset the parts after each shot. Cold weather and built up crud can affect this trigger job more easily due to the lower spring pressure when flipped. Which way does the triangle go? Up or down with the sharp point? As for crud, I know I cleaning this thing like a mofo & went thru 3 pans of solvent before I was done. I then sprayed out the inside with brake cleaner to get where I couldn't scrub. I may just end up flipping the spring back around instead of bending the leg(s) any. I'm really not comfortable with that particular process. 
Thanks for the advice! |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
We love our Buck Marks. We shoot Speed Steel with them. I had to buy my girlfriend one so I could get mine back! Hers with the comp we are designing... A couple of questions, if I may? Why a comp on a .22? Seems like the recoil/muzzle flip is pretty close to next to nothing, IMO. Why swap bbl's from the OEM version? I can't imagine TacSol being any more accurate than the Browning bull bbl? The light barrel does cause a little muzzle flip. I noticed that when I was watching my girlfriend was shooting. We shoot Speed Steel with them, so the quicker you can get to the next target the better. I have tried both barrels, and the lighter barrel is faster. |
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Sounds like the sear spring isn't providing sufficient pressure on the sear. This is not unusual when the sear spring is flipped. I had one that worked fine for quite a while, then the hammer began following the slide forward. Some shooters have stated they thought their slide wasn't going back far enough to cock the pistol. Fact is the slide has gone far enough if there's a fresh round in the chamber. It takes much less slide movement than that to cock the pistol.
I have been wrenching and shooting Brownings for many years. I have experienced malfunctions of the sear from a few different causes: 1. Mentioned above (spring flip when the spring got "tired") 2. Worn disconnector. The top of the disconnector wore down due to a rough underside of a slide. This pistol had 12-14,000 rounds through it at the time.. This in effect disabled it because the slide no longer pushed it down. Since then I check the slides and work off any roughness where the disconnector rides. 3. Loose slide. Caused by a loose screw at the rear of the rail. The slide was able to move upward enough so it wouldn't work the disconnector. In my experience, none of my Brownings have ever doubled when these malfunctions occurred. The hammer following the slide forward doesn't have enough energy to make the next round fire. The only scenario I can conceive where the pistol would double would be if somehow the sear bounced out of engagement as the slide impacts the breech. |
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Sounds like the sear spring isn't providing sufficient pressure on the sear. This is not unusual when the sear spring is flipped. I had one that worked fine for quite a while, then the hammer began following the slide forward. This too has me wondering if this isn't the case as well. I hope not, as after the spring flip, the trigger pull is just SO much improved & pleasant.
I did buy the gun used, so there's no telling how many rds have been thru the gun. I do know it was really filthy when I popped off the grip panels to clean it & flip the spring. I also know the slide isn't loose as I checked that after I snugged the top strap screws. Worse case scenerio is I flip the spring back around to the OEM position................ |