[ARCHIVED THREAD] - RUST PROOFING A 1911 (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/24/2010 7:10:29 AM EDT
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I have a R.I.A. 1911 officer that came parkerized from the factory this is my everyday go to gun, home,truck,work,play and home again. recently in this tropical heat wave i have had to clean off light surface rust and the oil the hell out of it. i would like to put a durable rust resistant black finish on it . ( ran into the duracoat guys out of columbus GA and they said duracoat dip was the answer to my problem but i am not sure about a "paint" type finish)
thanks. F2 |
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Quoted: I have a R.I.A. 1911 officer that came parkerized from the factory this is my everyday go to gun, home,truck,work,play and home again. recently in this tropical heat wave i have had to clean off light surface rust and the oil the hell out of it. i would like to put a durable rust resistant black finish on it . ( ran into the duracoat guys out of columbus GA and they said duracoat dip was the answer to my problem but i am not sure about a "paint" type finish) thanks. F2 Melonite or Ionbond  |
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Paint works. Shop around to see who can do it for a reasonable price. I haven't been awfully impressed with Duracoat, which is not much more than an epoxy-based paint. I'd personally recommend either Norrell's moly resin or Gunkote. Black-T is another possibility.
Melonite and IonBond are more durable alternatives but it's hard to pay as much to refinish a gun as you did to buy it. |
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Paint works. Shop around to see who can do it for a reasonable price. I haven't been awfully impressed with Duracoat, which is not much more than an epoxy-based paint. I'd personally recommend either Norrell's moly resin or Gunkote. Black-T is another possibility. Melonite and IonBond are more durable alternatives but it's hard to pay as much to refinish a gun as you did to buy it. +1 Springfield Armory will kote your gun for $140 if you prefer someone else do it, otherwise you can buy the paint from plenty of places. I like paints that require some curing in the oven. |
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melonite from coal creek is $200 Quoted: Paint works. Shop around to see who can do it for a reasonable price. I haven't been awfully impressed with Duracoat, which is not much more than an epoxy-based paint. I'd personally recommend either Norrell's moly resin or Gunkote. Black-T is another possibility. Melonite and IonBond are more durable alternatives but it's hard to pay as much to refinish a gun as you did to buy it. |
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Exactly ! The "pay as much to refinish a gun as you did to buy it" business is something I have never seen and I certainly didn't pay like that to have my pistol done. Quoted: melonite from coal creek is $200 Quoted: Paint works. Shop around to see who can do it for a reasonable price. I haven't been awfully impressed with Duracoat, which is not much more than an epoxy-based paint. I'd personally recommend either Norrell's moly resin or Gunkote. Black-T is another possibility. Melonite and IonBond are more durable alternatives but it's hard to pay as much to refinish a gun as you did to buy it. |
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Exactly ! The "pay as much to refinish a gun as you did to buy it" business is something I have never seen and I certainly didn't pay like that to have my pistol done. I don't think you're in the habit of buying $350 1911s, either. Melonite = $200 plus shipping costs, and IonBond is quite a bit more. I personally don't see the value in applying a premium finish to a budget 1911, but maybe that's just me. |
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I picked up this 70 series Colt 9mm 1911 from a widow, her husband had it stored in a fleece lined gun rug type zippered case and it had a lot of surface rust and pitting on it. I got it cheap due to it's condition. Anyway, I blasted the rust and original finish off and sprayed it with a $30 rattle can of GunKote from Brownells, then baked the parts in my kitchen oven at 300 degrees for an hour and reassembled. I am very impressed with the smooth semi gloss black finish that seems to be very chip resistant and rust resistant. I have no experience with melonite, so I will allow that it may be "all that and a bag of chips" but I am happy with the results I got with GunKote.   |
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Was given this process by the guys in the Schofield Barracks Rod&Gun Club.
Get the pure silicone oil that is used on sea fishing reels or a high grade silicon car wax. Have a hair dryer handy. Detail strip down as much as you can. Get two big pots of water and be able to bring to a boil. Put Joy soap in one to use as a degreaser. *** The following steps must be done in rapid succession to get the silicon oil/wax on the metal while it is still as hot as possible. ***
You should go from step #2 rinsing to be on step #5 in under one minute. Oh, be careful the metal is going to be hot. Supposedly this process degreases the parts and the clean water washes it clear. The heat on the metal evaporates away the water and opens the pores of the metal. The silicone molecule is smaller than water and goes to the bottom of the pores in the metal. When the metal cools, any water is forced out and the silicon remains trapped in the metal. This prevents rust by preventing the electrolyze started by the ions in water. Nota Bene' You won't ever be able to have the pistol refinished after this treatment. |
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RIAs seem to go for $400-500 (new) so $200 for Melonite would be half of the original cost but over a long time it would still be more cost effective than paint-type (epoxy) finishes in my (never) humble opinion. If you didn't keep it very long then it would be much less cost effective, obviously. My comments relate to my Colts as I have never owned a budget 1911. I have had two bad experiences with Duracoat and the other similar treatments may be better but I can't say as I haven't used them. I have no direct experience with Ionbond.
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I prefer Gun-Kote to Duracoat, though I have used both. Duracoat works well on surfaces that you don't want to heat in the oven.
Gun-Kote can be easily applied at home. I used the factory parkerized finish as the base for the Gun-Kote on my RIA. Not very expensive when you do it yourself, though there are some equipment costs, also. There are prettier finishes, and more durable finishes out there, but not any that beat Gun-Kote's bang for the buck. And, it is reasonably pretty, and reasonably durable. If you do apply a paint finish over the original park, make sure to degrease, degrease, degrease. After that, degrease again. |
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I have CeraKote on a 1911 and it looks pretty good. I agree that spending $200 (melonite) or $300 (ionBond DLC) is pretty silly for a pistol that costs less than $750 or so. I would sooner spend the money on a trigger job and higher quality components for pistols in that price range.
CeraKote: 
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| I'm doing a budget build now and was looking for a cheap durable coating ... I'm using alumahyde ii which I used on a old budget shotgun rebuild that can be seen here ... there was also someone in this thread that had done their 1911. I am getting close to being done with the build and will post the results when it is completed. |
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I picked up this 70 series Colt 9mm 1911 from a widow, her husband had it stored in a fleece lined gun rug type zippered case and it had a lot of surface rust and pitting on it. I got it cheap due to it's condition. Anyway, I blasted the rust and original finish off and sprayed it with a $30 rattle can of GunKote from Brownells, then baked the parts in my kitchen oven at 300 degrees for an hour and reassembled. I am very impressed with the smooth semi gloss black finish that seems to be very chip resistant and rust resistant. I have no experience with melonite, so I will allow that it may be "all that and a bag of chips" but I am happy with the results I got with GunKote. http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af237/14point5/Hardware/colt9mmright.jpg http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af237/14point5/Hardware/colt9mmleft.jpg You've put that in a holster, carried it in varied temps, sweat on it, practiced draws and fired an at least nominal amount of practice shots with it? |
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I'm doing a search for a finish that is "all that and a bag of chips" but I can't find one.  http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u247/turbomike1/PA300003.jpg  I actually like that. A lot. |
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I'm doing a search for a finish that is "all that and a bag of chips" but I can't find one. http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u247/turbomike1/PA300003.jpg I actually like that. A lot. me too what a beauty !!! |
| It's not a finish, but I have had very good luck on my park finished 1911 commander using "Rusty Duck" gun oil from Wal-mart. I used to use Rem-oil, that thing would be rusty after one to two days, with the Rusty Duck, I could get two to three weeks before having to re––oil. |
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Quoted: That looks like the 1911 that Jesus would carry. And there it is !  Quoted: Quoted: I'm doing a search for a finish that is "all that and a bag of chips" but I can't find one. http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u247/turbomike1/PA300003.jpg |
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It's not a finish, but I have had very good luck on my park finished 1911 commander using "Rusty Duck" gun oil from Wal-mart. I used to use Rem-oil, that thing would be rusty after one to two days, with the Rusty Duck, I could get two to three weeks before having to re––oil. from my understanding park is made to suck up oil and hold it. perhaps you can rub some bacon grease all over the gun and season it like a cast iron skillet. |
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Quoted: Quoted: That looks like the 1911 that Jesus would carry. And there it is ! Quoted: Quoted: I'm doing a search for a finish that is "all that and a bag of chips" but I can't find one. http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u247/turbomike1/PA300003.jpg Or............  |
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Hard chrome would be a decent choice. Dura Kote is also good. Black-T is a nice finish and a great rust preventative, but it's pretty soft and wears easily. The finish on my Springfield Pro has a lot of wear on the high points. The Armory Kote on my TRP seems to be holding up better.
I'd probably just have it Duracoted or Cerakoted over the parking. |
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It's not a finish, but I have had very good luck on my park finished 1911 commander using "Rusty Duck" gun oil from Wal-mart. I used to use Rem-oil, that thing would be rusty after one to two days, with the Rusty Duck, I could get two to three weeks before having to re––oil. from my understanding park is made to suck up oil and hold it. perhaps you can rub some bacon grease all over the gun and season it like a cast iron skillet. Makes sense to me. I would oil the crap out of it, let it sit over night then wipe off anything that did not soak in. |
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Quoted: Plus you have the added bonus of the smell of bacon.Quoted: Quoted: It's not a finish, but I have had very good luck on my park finished 1911 commander using "Rusty Duck" gun oil from Wal-mart. I used to use Rem-oil, that thing would be rusty after one to two days, with the Rusty Duck, I could get two to three weeks before having to re––oil. from my understanding park is made to suck up oil and hold it. perhaps you can rub some bacon grease all over the gun and season it like a cast iron skillet. Makes sense to me. I would oil the crap out of it, let it sit over night then wipe off anything that did not soak in. |
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I know that chrome gun was for sale on EE a while back. If I had the money I wouldve bought it. So with that in mind anyone know where I can have that done to a gun. I've always wanted a nickel/chrome gun with pearl grips. That one appears to have been a stainless gun that was high polished. There are a lot of shops that can do this, plus apply a hard chome plating if you don't have a stainless gun. Off the top of my head: http://www.apwcogan.com http://www.originalmetaloy.com http://www.mahovskysmetalife.com I don't know if Virgil Tripp's shop is still chroming at the moment, but I've seen a lot of his work and have been impressed with it. http://www.trippresearch.com |
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Thought I saw some blurb on the net saying that Tripp Research is no longer doing chrome... 
any thoughts on Robar's NP3? I've never had one done, but I've known friends who have. They usually say two things about it: 1) they absolutely love the finish and 2) it made gun more slippery than they had counted on. I haven't heard anything about their new NP3+ finish. |
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Quoted: just to clear the air i do not buy budget 1911's because i am cheap the only reason is that when i do leave it in the truck at work i do not want to be out 1000 bucks when some thug steals it i do own other much nicer 1911's such as a kimber and springfeild. The air is always clear in Central Indiana. (And I NEVER buy budget 1911s.
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That looks like the 1911 that Jesus would carry. And there it is !
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I'm doing a search for a finish that is "all that and a bag of chips" but I can't find one. http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u247/turbomike1/PA300003.jpg
By "Jesus" you mean "Hay-soos" right? |
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just to clear the air i do not buy budget 1911's because i am cheap the only reason is that when i do leave it in the truck at work i do not want to be out 1000 bucks when some thug steals it i do own other much nicer 1911's such as a kimber and springfeild. The air is always clear in Central Indiana. (And I NEVER buy budget 1911s. )ok so you dont buy budget 1911's i wasn't on a budget i bought it out of necessity i do electrical work in downtown atlanta so i would NEVER bring a nice 1911 or any nice gun for that fact i used to carry a glock 26 but it was stolen out of my truck at the federal building (no carry allowed + they use metal detectors and xray) along with some other things tools ect. so that is why i bought it if someone steals it i am only out 350 $ i just dont want it to rust up on me
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: just to clear the air i do not buy budget 1911's because i am cheap the only reason is that when i do leave it in the truck at work i do not want to be out 1000 bucks when some thug steals it i do own other much nicer 1911's such as a kimber and springfeild. The air is always clear in Central Indiana. (And I NEVER buy budget 1911s. )ok so you dont buy budget 1911's i wasn't on a budget i bought it out of necessity i do electrical work in downtown atlanta so i would NEVER bring a nice 1911 or any nice gun for that fact i used to carry a glock 26 but it was stolen out of my truck at the federal building (no carry allowed + they use metal detectors and xray) along with some other things tools ect. so that is why i bought it if someone steals it i am only out 350 $ i just dont want it to rust up on me That's nice ! Did I tell you I never buy budget 1911s ? |
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Paint sucks ! This is my Colt Commander in Melonite. Paint does not begin to compare. This is true but Duracoat will be fine, if you can't afford to send it off now. It will give you time to save for the coating. |
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just to clear the air i do not buy budget 1911's because i am cheap the only reason is that when i do leave it in the truck at work i do not want to be out 1000 bucks when some thug steals it i do own other much nicer 1911's such as a kimber and springfeild. The air is always clear in Central Indiana. (And I NEVER buy budget 1911s. )ok so you dont buy budget 1911's i wasn't on a budget i bought it out of necessity i do electrical work in downtown atlanta so i would NEVER bring a nice 1911 or any nice gun for that fact i used to carry a glock 26 but it was stolen out of my truck at the federal building (no carry allowed + they use metal detectors and xray) along with some other things tools ect. so that is why i bought it if someone steals it i am only out 350 $ i just dont want it to rust up on me
That's nice ! Did I tell you I never buy budget 1911s ? we are not talking about your SAFE QUEENS that are still in the box
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just to clear the air i do not buy budget 1911's because i am cheap the only reason is that when i do leave it in the truck at work i do not want to be out 1000 bucks when some thug steals it i do own other much nicer 1911's such as a kimber and springfeild. The air is always clear in Central Indiana. (And I NEVER buy budget 1911s. )ok so you dont buy budget 1911's i wasn't on a budget i bought it out of necessity i do electrical work in downtown atlanta so i would NEVER bring a nice 1911 or any nice gun for that fact i used to carry a glock 26 but it was stolen out of my truck at the federal building (no carry allowed + they use metal detectors and xray) along with some other things tools ect. so that is why i bought it if someone steals it i am only out 350 $ i just dont want it to rust up on me
That's nice ! Did I tell you I never buy budget 1911s ? we are not talking about your SAFE QUEENS that are still in the box
About a year ago I was of the same mind set you are now foreman2000 .. but after owning a couple of "budget" 1911's that tossed lead like a wet noodle and functioned like a beat up Yugo I gave that mind set up.
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just to clear the air i do not buy budget 1911's because i am cheap the only reason is that when i do leave it in the truck at work i do not want to be out 1000 bucks when some thug steals it i do own other much nicer 1911's such as a kimber and springfeild. The air is always clear in Central Indiana. (And I NEVER buy budget 1911s. )ok so you dont buy budget 1911's i wasn't on a budget i bought it out of necessity i do electrical work in downtown atlanta so i would NEVER bring a nice 1911 or any nice gun for that fact i used to carry a glock 26 but it was stolen out of my truck at the federal building (no carry allowed + they use metal detectors and xray) along with some other things tools ect. so that is why i bought it if someone steals it i am only out 350 $ i just dont want it to rust up on me
That's nice ! Did I tell you I never buy budget 1911s ? we are not talking about your SAFE QUEENS that are still in the box
About a year ago I was of the same mind set you are now foreman2000 .. but after owning a couple of "budget" 1911's that tossed lead like a wet noodle and functioned like a beat up Yugo I gave that mind set up. I hear that it took a little smithing work by bob sims @ bob's custom firearms in palmetto ga. before i trusted my life with it but he did all the tune up basics to it and it functions flawlessly as long as you use the ACT mags it came with .
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just to clear the air i do not buy budget 1911's because i am cheap the only reason is that when i do leave it in the truck at work i do not want to be out 1000 bucks when some thug steals it i do own other much nicer 1911's such as a kimber and springfeild. The air is always clear in Central Indiana. (And I NEVER buy budget 1911s. )ok so you dont buy budget 1911's i wasn't on a budget i bought it out of necessity i do electrical work in downtown atlanta so i would NEVER bring a nice 1911 or any nice gun for that fact i used to carry a glock 26 but it was stolen out of my truck at the federal building (no carry allowed + they use metal detectors and xray) along with some other things tools ect. so that is why i bought it if someone steals it i am only out 350 $ i just dont want it to rust up on me
That's nice ! Did I tell you I never buy budget 1911s ? we are not talking about your SAFE QUEENS that are still in the box
About a year ago I was of the same mind set you are now foreman2000 .. but after owning a couple of "budget" 1911's that tossed lead like a wet noodle and functioned like a beat up Yugo I gave that mind set up. I hear that it took a little smithing work by bob sims @ bob's custom firearms in palmetto ga. before i trusted my life with it but he did all the tune up basics to it and it functions flawlessly as long as you use the ACT mags it came with . I'm working on a "budget" Para now ... had to replace the barrel bushing (it's I.D. was .004 off from the barrels O.D.) causing my shots to wet noodle all over plus the trigger was so gritty and heavy that was pulling my shots left and low from POA. The feedramps had deep tooling marks causing jams with even FMJ and all my mags (Para, Nighthawk, Dan Wesson and Wilson 47D's). My point is that for the money spent for the pistol and then the money and time spent correcting the "problems" of a budget 1911 you could get a Springer or ? ... which is what I wish I had done to begin with ... live and learn I guess. 
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