Posted: 4/23/2010 7:09:51 PM EDT
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I have a kimber ultra carry, and want a sear spring that will lighten the trigger pull from the 5# factory trigger down to 3.5ish.
Suggestions? i'm looking for a true drop in, as i have no machining tools |
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I would suggest that you look at the trigger upgrade kits offered by Cylinder and Slide.
Be careful, the 1911 is not a friendly pistol for the novice to learn on. Parts fitting is required and learning the skills to do so can be expensive as parts are ruined in the learning process. Buy a book by Kuhnhausen, volume 1, on the 1911. Charles. |
| it sounds like i'm seriously in over my head. I just want a VERY simple method of having the trigger made just a tiny bit lighter. It's already pretty good, but i'd like to see it 1# lighter. what's the cheapest i'm likely to find a basic trigger job for? What do they normally cost |
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Costs for 1911 'improvements' vary tremendously.
As do the skill levels of the 'gunsmiths'. Generally you get what you pay for. What you are asking me is how much is it gonna cost to fix/repair/upgrade a pistol I have never seen. So, without benefit of an inspection I have no idea what the quality of the existing parts may be and how well they are fitted. Also I have no idea how they may be contributing to or degrading your existing trigger pull. Seriously, look at the Cylinder and Slide drop in improvements. Google Cylinder and Slide in Nebraska. They fit most everything and while they are not truly custom they do have a certain level of improvement that is noticeable is most cases. Everyone has to start somewhere to learn and with some guidance you should be OK. Charles. |
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Quoted:
Can you describe this in greater detail please? Is this something I can do myself? This is a good place to start. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=253039 You should be familiar with the procedure to detail strip and reassemble the 1911. |
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I would say that poster is right. It's easy to screw up a 1911 and take it from a very safe weapon with many safety systems to a very unsafe potential disaster waiting to happen.
The left leg of the sear spring and the middle leg can be tweaked slightly to reduce the trigger pull weight when used in conjunction with a 18lb or so mainspring (lighter than stock). Some of the mainsprings come like 3/8" longer than they need to be and need to be shortened. As a rule of thumb if you drop a fresh pencil (eraser down)down the barrel and drop the hammer and the pencil clears the barrel by a foot it's going to pop primers. I recently cut 3/8" off one really long spring from brownells and pencils are still flying like 4-5 feet when I drop the hammer. Put it back together, listen for two nice loud clicks when you cock the hammer, and you can be reasonably certain adequate spring pressure still exists. dry fire and cock the weapon and release the trigger- you should hear the click of the dissconnector resetting. if you don't you have a potentially dangerous weapon. That way at least you know you don't have a fitting problem because you didn't change parts. Now rack the slide and let it fly a few times empty to make sure the hammer doesn't follow. Then when you first fire it load only 2-3 rounds at a time for like 15 rounds before you know it's not going to go full auto or experience hammer follow and then you should be good. If you change parts there is no good way for a not very experienced person to really easily troubleshoot a fitting problem. |