Posted: 3/21/2010 11:31:08 AM EDT
| I'm new to 1911s and wanted to know how much of a hassle it would be to add a beavertail or mainspring housing to a Springfield milspec. Does the gun have anythin proprietary that would make it less modular than others? |
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Quoted:
the grip safety will need to be fitted and the frame may need to be blended but the MSH for the most part is a drop in part. it may need filing at the top if it contacts the swing/movement of the grip safety. Yep this... They do make drop in one but they do not fit pretty at all and leave gaps. I would suggest if you are not good at fitting take it to a gun smith and they can get you setup. While they are at it have them cut your front sight for a novak cut to get rid of the staked one. |
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The MSH is an easy part to handle on your own but be aware that because of the Springfield ILS mechanism
the mainspring, cap and retainer contained in the MSH also need to be replaced with "standard" 1911 parts. Unless you're fairly experienced at gunsmithing I'd have a pro do the beavertail. Aside from cutting the frame to accomodate it there is also fitting required in relation to the sear spring. BTW, the Milspec is a great gun to build off of. |
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Quoted: Do you guys think it is worth putting parts (beavertail,sights,ect) and paying a smith, into a WW2 Milspec Springer or just buying something with more options? Only you can answer that. Do you like buying a stock car or do you like modding? Is it worth it to me? Yes it is, since I carry it every day and I wanted reliability first, and functionality (YB rear, trijicon front, beavertail, magwell, etc...) second. Before:  A few of the changes...beavertail after:  Dawson rail and flush slide stop crosspin: 
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Here is my SA Mil-Spec I changed and fitted all the parts myself on. The Beavertail is a drop-in part so no frame cut was needed which is what I wanted so I could put it back to Mil-Spec....spec when I wanted to.
Changed everything you see and all the internals minus barrel and 100% reliability with any ammo from day 1 with great accuracy. |
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Quoted: Does the gun have anythin proprietary that would make it less modular than others? the GI and Mil-spec frames have rear tangs that are cut with a .220 radius where as other springfield models and most other manufacturers use a .250 radius if you want to have one fitted you should start with a smith and alexander. they are made for the .220 radius Smith & Alexander |
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From what I've been reading, it seems that the S&A safety is the way to go. Now as far as hammers go, anybody know what hammers work the best with them?
And FNC80- Is that an S&A? Looks like it was fitted very well. What hammer/sear did you use? And does Nakanokalronin's pistol show the "gap" I've been reading about? I'm assuming it's a .250 safety on a .220 tang? |
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Quoted: From what I've been reading, it seems that the S&A safety is the way to go. Now as far as hammers go, anybody know what hammers work the best with them? And FNC80- Is that an S&A? Looks like it was fitted very well. What hammer/sear did you use? And does Nakanokalronin's pistol show the "gap" I've been reading about? I'm assuming it's a .250 safety on a .220 tang? i don't suspect you will have any problems with hammers. i haven't read anything saying hammer 'x' didn't work with my BT 'y' and yes, that is the gap |
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Quoted:
Nakanokaironin, If you are happy with the fit on that grip safety, great, it's your gun. Personally, I think it looks like hell and detracts from the looks of an otherwise good looking pistol. Well I don't own that pistol anymore since I had to sell it for finacial reasons.  I did'nt mind the GAP as I was getting hammer bite with the GI set-up. It was one of the first things I modded and it was my 1st 1911 and I wanted function over looks. Then I started adding other parts in stainless to match up and it came out great looking to me. The gap was there yes, but it worked and thats all I cared about. I was eventually going to get a regular BTGS and a jig to do it right but never got around to it and sold the gun I thought I'd never sell. 
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Quoted: sometimes people dont get this conceptQuoted: Nakanokaironin, If you are happy with the fit on that grip safety, great, it's your gun. Personally, I think it looks like hell and detracts from the looks of an otherwise good looking pistol. Well I don't own that pistol anymore since I had to sell it for finacial reasons. I did'nt mind the GAP as I was getting hammer bite with the GI set-up. It was one of the first things I modded and it was my 1st 1911 and I wanted function over looks. Then I started adding other parts in stainless to match up and it came out great looking to me. The gap was there yes, but it worked and thats all I cared about. I was eventually going to get a regular BTGS and a jig to do it right but never got around to it and sold the gun I thought I'd never sell. |
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Quoted: From what I've been reading, it seems that the S&A safety is the way to go. Quoted: And FNC80- Is that an S&A? Looks like it was fitted very well. What hammer/sear did you use? The grip safety is a S&A. Yes, the gunsmith did an outstanding job. The hammer/sear/disconnector is from Cylinder and Slide. Ultralight hammer. ETA to correct GS. |
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I'd say rather than messing up the GI, sell or trade it and get a Springfield 'Loaded'. This is a very excellent PDW with basically every feature you could want, including Tritium night sights. You can usually find them for $750 at gun shows, maybe less for a nice pre-owned.
http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?version=4 |
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Quoted:
I'd say rather than messing up the GI, sell or trade it and get a Springfield 'Loaded'. This is a very excellent PDW with basically every feature you could want, including Tritium night sights. You can usually find them for $750 at gun shows, maybe less for a nice pre-owned. http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?version=4 Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I looked into having some work done, and it quickly out weighed the cost of just getting something already done. I also think the GI is ment to be just as it is. It would take away from it to switch it up. Does anyone know what used GI's are selling for? |
The Wilson Drop-in will leave a gap.......because the springer frame does not have the true Gov't model ears......you can get a gunsmith to fit one or send it to Wilson.........GI model is a good starting point to go from mild to Wild......they are a great foundation...........This pistol started life as a 45acp GI model I swapped out the top end and had the frame cut for a ramped barrel........It has a host of Wilson and Brown parts......and a Fusion barrel...........my favorite 1911............
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