Posted: 1/16/2010 11:34:33 AM EDT
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So I have one and a Kimber Custom. The SA really bothers the web of my hand at the thumb because the rear ridge of the darned safety mechanism bites it when I grip the pistol.
It's a parked version and runs like a clock (after SA adjusted/replaed the extractor). I really need to lear a lot more about 1911s. In any case - how hard is it to get this part off so I can smooth the high ridge and round the edge so it "blends" into the frame. I'd use a dremel/small grinder - bad part is once I remove the park - I doubt anyone will do such a small part. May be better to but a parked piece tat is already moodified? Any advice you can offer is greatly appreciated |
| Have a Wilson Combat safety fitted instead. It is almost a perfect match in color and is very well dehorned out of the package. I have used them on nearly every 1911 I have ever owned with good results. Or you could break the edges on the factory parts and use some cold bluing to touch the metal. A safety is a high wear part anyhow and it is good to have bluing around for touch ups. |
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Have a Wilson Combat safety fitted instead. It is almost a perfect match in color and is very well dehorned out of the package. I have used them on nearly every 1911 I have ever owned with good results. Or you could break the edges on the factory parts and use some cold bluing to touch the metal. A safety is a high wear part anyhow and it is good to have bluing around t for touch ups. Hrad to get them off? II never did anything but strip them to clean |
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If you "de-horn" the way you want it, send the part to me and I will refinish it in Norrell's flat black for the price of return postage.
IM if you want to do that. To take the thumb safety off- Check and make sure the gun is unloaded. Take the slide off. Make sure the hammer is down. Drive out the pin holding the Main Spring Housing, remove the MSH. Cock the hammer. Grasp the safety and lift it up, like you were engaging it and pull it free. If is sticks a little, wiggle it up and down and it free it's self. Make sure the Plunger Spring, safety and slide stop plunger does not go shooting out of the plunger tube. Hope that helps. |
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Sweet - I have taken the pistol down, but can not figure out how to get the thing off the frame. Looks like it pivots on a metal post extending through the frame, but beating on it with the brass hammer hasn't moved it. I'm stumped See my edited post, above yours. Don't go beating on it... 
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No luck - the thing is tight like it is held in by something.
When I twist it back and forth, I can feel the pin on the other side moving - but tapping with a brass punch doesn't do a thing. 
ETA: Nah - no way in hell it is just setting in there. It's being held by something. |
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Cock the hammer. Then lift up and pull to the left. Ok - I put the hammer away - cock the hammer? It's flopping around. I am guessing it's not supposed to. I pulled on the sumbitch till my fingers bled - Ixnay - no soap. DID you remove the MSH? Cock the hammer, leave it cocked and lift the safety and pull. |
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Cock the hammer, leave it cocked and lift the safety and pull. Yep, the safety will only come out if the hammer is in the "cocked" position. The hammer is not engaged - it moves back and forth freely. It won't engage, but the hammer needs to be in the cocked position. It will move freely, but the safety will not come out with the hammer in the down position. Jim |
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Cock the hammer, leave it cocked and lift the safety and pull. Yep, the safety will only come out if the hammer is in the "cocked" position. The hammer is not engaged - it moves back and forth freely. All the hammer needs to be is cocked back. Then the safety will be able to be removed. Cock the hammer. Leave in the full cocked position. Then grasp the safety, lift it fully up. You move it past the safe position. Pull the safety to the left. If it will not move, wiggle it up and down, while pulling it out to the left. If it still is hard to push, try moving the grip safety in and out, while pulling the safety out. |
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Cock the hammer, leave it cocked and lift the safety and pull. Yep, the safety will only come out if the hammer is in the "cocked" position. The hammer is not engaged - it moves back and forth freely. All the hammer needs to be is cocked back. Then the safety will be able to be removed. Cock the hammer. Leave in the full cocked position. Then grasp the safety, lift it fully up. You move it past the safe position. Pull the safety to the left. If it will not move, wiggle it up and down, while pulling it out to the left. If it still is hard to push, try moving the grip safety in and out, while pulling the safety out. +1. Please listen to the good advice being given. It's flopping around because the MSH has been removed and the hammer strut has nothing to make contact with. Either way, this method is the correct method for removing the safety. No tools are needed, especially not a hammer. |
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Got it - loud and clear.
Now - the hammer strut dropped out when taking it down and I am cluseless on how to get it back to where it goes. All the diagrams I have seen, a pin holds it on the hammer. No so this SA. The hammer was never removed. I have looked at videos, diagrams and the parts in my hand. I'd LOVE to get it back together toningt and test it Monday. So - more help for a newb if you have any ideas. |
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Now - the hammer strut dropped out when taking it down and I am cluseless on how to get it back to where it goes.
All the diagrams I have seen, a pin holds it on the hammer. No so this SA. The hammer was never removed. I have looked at videos, diagrams and the parts in my hand. I'd LOVE to get it back together toningt and test it Monday. So - more help for a newb if you have any ideas. |
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Nope - mine is not like that - I think I mentioned I never removed the hammer - so mine couldn't possibly be pinned like every diagram and video I have watched indicates.
All the diagrams I have seen, a pin holds it on the hammer. No so this SA. The hammer was never removed. I have looked at videos, diagrams and the parts in my hand. I'd LOVE to get it back together toningt and test it Monday. So - some help for a newb if you have any ideas. |
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Nope - mine is not like that - I think I mentioned I never removed the hammer - so mine couldn't possibly be pinned like every diagram and video I have watched indicates. All the diagrams I have seen, a pin holds it on the hammer. No so this SA. The hammer was never removed. I have looked at videos, diagrams and the parts in my hand. I'd LOVE to get it back together toningt and test it Monday. So - some help for a newb if you have any ideas. Unless you have a hammer pin laying on your desk, you will need a new one. I don't see how it fell out, unless there either was no pin or it was very loose and fell out when you took it apart. Hell just order a pin set from Brownell's-Ed Brown Blued Pin Kit |
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You know - the trigger has not been removed- I swear it hasn't by me. I am starting to think someone else took it apart and didn't re-assemble it correctly - which is what's throwing me. I can look at the trigger and see the pin it should be attached to.
 OK - if I have not removed the hammer
The hammer strut fell out without me doing anything but removing the sear spring and grip safety. I can see the pin it should ride on pushed right through the hammer. Someone who owned it before me didn't put it together correctly. I remove the hammer, remove the pin attach the strut and put the rest back together - should be GTG I know I'm a newb - but I never even touched the hammer except to work it back and forth to remove the thumb safety. ETA: Yup - that was it - some bone head didn't put it together correctly. 
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And it had no MSH pin either. Anyone have one - or can I use a roll pin from an AR? Kinda glad I took it apart. Mis assemled and a part missing. Your best bet is to buy a Ed Brown Pin Kit and replace all of the pins. You are saying the MSH pin is missing....Which pin? The one that holds the seat and spring in the housing or the one that holds the housing in the frame? |
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And it had no MSH pin either. Anyone have one - or can I use a roll pin from an AR? Kinda glad I took it apart. Mis assemled and a part missing. Your best bet is to buy a Ed Brown Pin Kit and replace all of the pins. You are saying the MSH pin is missing....Which pin? The one that holds the seat and spring in the housing or the one that holds the housing in the frame? The one that holds the spring in the MSH. I used an AR roll pin - seems to be OK. Now (wouldn't you know) I am really having a problem getting the sear spring to set so the hammer operates correctly - any tricks? I was up till 3 a.m. last night trying everything I could think of. Crash 1911 course I guess. ETA: OK - I think I am seeing things a bit clearer. The sear spring goes in so the hammer has half cock and full cock clicks and then the hammer strut bar end sets atop the MSH spring, to give the hammer enough spring pressure to hit the firing pin, correct. 
I know this is all old hat to you folks, but I am just starting to (try) to learn how the 1911 works. Once I get the hammer tension correct - the rest is easy (I hope  )
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I put the foot of it in the slot first, then lower it onto the Disconnector, etc. Then slide the MSH up enough to hold it in place and still let me get the grip safety on. Works pretty well for me. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Does the hammer strut bar (the bottom) rest inside the MSH atop the spring to give the hammer the required tension to hit the firing pin? |
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Yes, it rides on the mainspring housing "cap" (the thing between the spring and the strut). Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Sweet = I think I now understand how it works - 15 minutes and it should be together. I'm not trying to harp on this, but you really need to get a 1911 pin kit. The roll pin you used in the MSH does not have a flanged end on it. It will walk out. Pin kits are very low cost for the piece of mind that they bring. |
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Yes, it rides on the mainspring housing "cap" (the thing between the spring and the strut). Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Sweet = I think I now understand how it works - 15 minutes and it should be together. I'm not trying to harp on this, but you really need to get a 1911 pin kit. The roll pin you used in the MSH does not have a flanged end on it. It will walk out. Pin kits are very low cost for the piece of mind that they bring. Will do Dog - I'll go put it in my Midway wish list for my next order. Any particular kit or sets I should buy? Thanks again! I had zero idea how a 1911 works and now I'm an expert
Well at least I know what goes where and does what and that a hammer is NOT a usefull 1911 tool. Besides the MSH pin, it's not needed. Now I have to decide whether to put in a geissele trigger on an AR lower, start rust bluing a .22 barrel or go shooting for a while. |
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Just noticed this at Midway
Springfield Armory uses a locking system in the mainspring housing and that system does not require a mainspring cap pin.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=148263 |
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Just noticed this at Midway Springfield Armory uses a locking system in the mainspring housing and that system does not require a mainspring cap pin.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=148263 You didn't say you have the ILS...that explains that. Pick a MSH, replace that crappy ILS one, and get a pin kit. |