Posted: 1/15/2010 5:44:45 PM EDT
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I'm getting an almost uncontrollable urge to order one of these kits. Even though, doing the math, I could buy a decent (cheap) 1911 cheaper when you factor in the frame and every thing else.
There's always the everything else, right? The parts that don't fit, the parts you screw up fitting. Maybe I'll just take the Kimber apart and put it back together, I just want to build, and I want a new gun, who am I kidding? I need therapy. |
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You'll probably have to do some smithin on the SARCO parts. You might also buy some other parts the dress your buyild up a little. The SARCO stuff is your basic no frills kit. My first build. Most off the innards are SARCO. http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac272/edhaney1/Guns/P1040002.jpg Preassembly http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac272/edhaney1/Guns/NewBuild-1.jpg I changed up a few things. slide stop, ambi thumb safety, grip safety, guide rod. |
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Quoted:
I'm getting an almost uncontrollable urge to order one of these kits. Even though, doing the math, I could buy a decent (cheap) 1911 cheaper when you factor in the frame and every thing else. . Yeah, true............ but look at all the fun you would be missing !! |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I'm getting an almost uncontrollable urge to order one of these kits. Even though, doing the math, I could buy a decent (cheap) 1911 cheaper when you factor in the frame and every thing else. . Yeah, true............ but look at all the fun you would be missing !! This is the thing, I love it. |
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The finished product. Most of the internals are SARCO. Slide Stop, Thumb Safety, Grip Safety and Full Length Guide Rod are other makers. http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac272/edhaney1/Guns/th_newbuild8.jpg Here are some results. 15 yards JHP Federals and reloads. http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac272/edhaney1/Guns/th_newbuild7.jpg |
I bought 3 of the GI style kits. Assembled 2 so far. First barrels chamber was hidious, but I was able to pollish it with a dremel. Second barrels look very good. All of the complete upper halves have gone together with no fitting, though I read an article about pollishing and beveling the extractor, wich I did. Almost everyone has said they replaced the sear. I actually used the sear on my first, but used a Wilson on my second. One sear was actually cracked from SARCO. The first build I wasted 300rnds trying to figure out spuratic feeding, failure to feed, failure to go into battery. Found out the Recoil spring was weak. New COLT spring from Midway=runs 100%. Found primer strikes after cycling live ammo  Ed Brown HD firing pin spring= problem solved. I installed a Wold plunger spring to get a stiffer safety. The Sarco safety allowed sear movement, installed Wilson extended.
Parts I personally think should be replaced and will save you a head ache: Recoil spring Firing pin spring Plunger spring Sear spring, maybe Sear thumb safety slide stop (S&W from midway, like $2.50) hammer strut pin (sarco supplies a roll pin) Replace all of these with BRAND NAME stuff, no John Masen, or no name bargains, I buy from midway and it cost about $60 and makes the kit SOOOO much better. I bought all of these right off the bat for build 2 and it functions 100% with the first mag. |
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I'm just fine using SARCO's frame/slide/barrel kits since those are supplied by RIA, and they make good stuff.
I'm somewhat less sanguine about using their builder's kits of small parts. I want high quality internals in my guns. Eh, grip screws and guide rod plugs probably don't need to come from the highest bidder, but I go with Wilson Combat for things like springs, firing pins and stop plates, slide stops, and sears. By the time I'm done with my next build I'll have a pistol I'd probably pay $1500 in store for under $1000, and I'll be able to trust the manufacturer of every part. |