Posted: 2/11/2009 12:44:28 PM EDT
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I am trying to decide on what front strap grip option to get on a upcoming 1911 build. This is going on a Springfield frame and I am try trying to choose between 25 or 30 LPI hand checkering or Serrations similar to the Cameo Pattern from Harrison Custom.
http://www.harrisoncustom.com/LargeImg.aspx?image=http://www.harrisoncustom.com/Images/513b.jpg I love the way the serrations look but like the grip that the checkering offers. What do you guys prefer for an all around (range use, home defense, SHTF) 1911? Thanks |
| Well, fish scales fill up with dirt and are impossible to clean. Golf balls are a very good surface for grip but a little rough on skin. Think hand cut 20LPI. There is also another option, I forget the name of it. Little rectangular divots that are very soft on the hand but actually helps. I've played with it some, I think it was on a Dick Heinie gun. |
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I like 40, 30, or 25 lpi checkering.
I can live with serrations but I prefer them to cover the entire frontstrap. The little patch of serrations I see on so many guns today just doesn't work well for me. I also like stippling but I admit checkering usually looks more professional. |
| I carry a TRP so the 20LPI checkering doesn't bother me at all....Hell I never notice its there with the VMII. As far as looks I think the golf ball this, fish scale that, snake belly thing a ma bob looks kind of unprofessional. To each their own I guess but to me a 1911's frontstrap needs checkering. |
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My 2 cents:
Personally I'm not a fan of checkering. Hand-cut checkering is indeed a rare skill and it looks very nice...but in daily use it sucks. It tends to shred clothing. It gets dirty and is hard to clean. If the checkering is too fine it can be easily damaged. It's OK on the range for a few rounds, but if you show up at a training course that requires firing about 3,000 rounds in a week, by the end of day 2 that checkering is going to feel like it's stripping your fingers to the bone. There are so many grip options on the market these days that I really don't see the need for it...I mean, you can get grip panels that are essentially a slice of wood wrapped in skateboard tape. That's about as much purchase as you can get absent the use of superglue. I think serrations are a better way to go if you want some sort of grip enhancement. They are more durable, easier to clean, and they offer some additional grip without tearing your skin off. Personally I find that a smooth frontstrap and a serrated backstrap work very well with the right grips. Now that's just my opinion. Does everyone share it? 
(Photo courtesy of Lynn Freshley) ...obviously not. |
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I'm a traditional kind of guy so it's checkering for me. I used to prefer 20lpi and used it for years. Then I did a gun in 30lpi and foung it worked just as well as 20 and was a little faster to cut so I started doing all my guns in 30. I still like 20lpi for looks on a classic 1911 build. I just picked up a Kimber Classic in 40S&W and I'm going to do it in 25lpi and see if it's the best of both worlds. I've read for years the 'warnings' people have posted regarding sharp checkering and the problems it will cause if you shoot high numbers of rounds ina short period of time. This was never my experience and I've probobly shot more rounds down range with a handgun than most here. There was a time when I was firing 2,000 - 2,500 rounds per week and checkering never bothered me. |
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Quoted:
My 2 cents: Personally I'm not a fan of checkering. Hand-cut checkering is indeed a rare skill and it looks very nice...but in daily use it sucks. It tends to shred clothing. It gets dirty and is hard to clean. If the checkering is too fine it can be easily damaged. It's OK on the range for a few rounds, but if you show up at a training course that requires firing about 3,000 rounds in a week, by the end of day 2 that checkering is going to feel like it's stripping your fingers to the bone. There are so many grip options on the market these days that I really don't see the need for it...I mean, you can get grip panels that are essentially a slice of wood wrapped in skateboard tape. That's about as much purchase as you can get absent the use of superglue. I think serrations are a better way to go if you want some sort of grip enhancement. They are more durable, easier to clean, and they offer some additional grip without tearing your skin off. Personally I find that a smooth frontstrap and a serrated backstrap work very well with the right grips. Now that's just my opinion. Does everyone share it? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v697/hk24/DSC_3868.jpg (Photo courtesy of Lynn Freshley) ...obviously not. Handcut checkering may suck for a class but it sure is nice when your hands are wet or your grip isn't quite right.. I don't think a normal self defense shooting would involve 3000 rounds 
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Quoted:
Handcut checkering may suck for a class but it sure is nice when your hands are wet or your grip isn't quite right.. I've done that kind of shooting without checkering and with checkering...and the benefits of checkering never really proved to be any more effective for me as far as controlling the weapon than a standard front strap. |
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I've got 30 lpi checkering and serrations on 1911s, both done by Yost, on guns I carry daily.
The checkering is way better, in every way. It's awesome. Nothing feels or works as well for me. I think I could live with 25 lpi checkering. In fact I've though that I'd try that on my next gun. I'd go for that. Serrations are not so good. They allows up and down slip, and don't feel so good. |
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Quoted:
Leave it smooth and go tackle something important. For shame!
I found the time spent learning to checker to be a great experience. For now, I have 25 lpi checkering on the (homebrew high cut) front strap, and 20 lpi serrations on the rear. Great grip - which I find to be QUITE important, and it doesn't snag on any clothing, which I am concerned checkering the rear might do... |
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Quoted:
I'm thinking of ordering my next one with 25LPI on the front and serrations on the back. Best of both worlds. I like this setup a lot. Les Baer does the same, but instead of 25lpi it's 30. I also like the serrations as they are aesthetically pleasing and functional. I personally prefer checkering (25 or 30lpi). I've also noticed that the serrations can be a little sharp and have caused me more irritation than checkering. |
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Quoted:
Any opinions on Ed Brown's chain link texture? I've got an STI Trojan, which has a chain link front strap, that looks to me to be the same as the Brown. It's OK, I understand it to be machine done, so a cost savings over hand checkering, but it doesn't come close to performing as well as checkering. I'd skip chain-link and get checkering If I could at all find the $. |
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Quoted:
Leave it smooth and go tackle something important. What he said. Or just get some grip tape. I have an example of each and I like both. I never saw front strap texturing to be all that necessary but I also like long triggers and I have girl hands and I like Walthers so that should invalidate my opinion. Or figure out what you like best and get that. |
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Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I played with a few guns this past week and seemed to like the 25lpi checkering on a friends build. The 30lpi also felt nice.
My next questions is what is the main difference between machine and hand checkering other then the prices. There is about a $100 difference between both and wondering if the hand checkering is worth the extra $. Does anyone have any pics comparing both? Thanks |
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Quoted: Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I played with a few guns this past week and seemed to like the 25lpi checkering on a friends build. The 30lpi also felt nice. My next questions is what is the main difference between machine and hand checkering other then the prices. There is about a $100 difference between both and wondering if the hand checkering is worth the extra $. Does anyone have any pics comparing both? Thanks Hand checkering in my experiance is sharper, as in a needle like point  |
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That looks like a bag of mashed assholes. How's the function? |