Posted: 1/22/2009 9:33:20 AM EDT
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I'm looking to get a 1911. I like the ones that come with a rail on the bottom so i can attach my light. My question is, can I order the railed lower as a separate part? I'm thinking not, and that it has to come with the gun because the bottom is the portion of the gun that is stamped with the serial number. need some guidance. thanks!
Here is what I'm wondering if I can buy online or at a dealer?? 
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You could buy a railed receiver from one of the sources that RangerJoe listed, and they'll ship it to your FFL Dealer, typically your local gunshop. They will probably charge you a nominal transfer fee of around $25.
In purchasing a new receiver your best bet is to have a competent smith fit it to your slide. Your other option may be to purchase an aftermarket rail, such as a Novak, and have a smith attach it if you have already have a non-railed 1911. If you don't have a 1911 yet why not just buy one with it, such as a Springfield MC Operator? Hope that answers it for you. ETA: to answer your question about whether or not you can attach the receiver to any gun, the receiver is the gun, hence the need for a transfer via ffl, new slides, barrels, etc. are aftermarket parts that aren't regulated....yet. |
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I don't have a 1911 yet, and the Springfield MC Operator is way out of my budget. so I was hoping to get the gun i wanted, than simply attach a railed lower when i can afford it. I wont pay more that 700 for the gun alone though, i just cant afford it.
So I can have it shipped to me and have a smith install it? what about the serial number on my previous gun? will they punch a new one? will they punch the same number, does the railed lowers have numbers on them that they will id to me? |
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I don't know how much 1911 experience you have, but 1911 parts don't generally just drop in and work happily with one another. They generally require some good fitting to function properly.
If you have a 1911 and just want a rail you can have a rail added. This does require drilling the frame which many 1911 owners are reluctant to do. Others have already mentioned that buying a frame is basically buying a firearm, so you could buy a frame and slide that are already fitted and gradually build yourself a new pistol. The frame must be sold to you like a gun. It must go through a dealer, and be shipped to a lisenced dealer. The other simpler (expensive) option is buy a whole new pistol that is railed. |
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Quoted:
I don't have a 1911 yet, and the Springfield MC Operator is way out of my budget. so I was hoping to get the gun i wanted, than simply attach a railed lower when i can afford it. I wont pay more that 700 for the gun alone though, i just cant afford it. So I can have it shipped to me and have a smith install it? what about the serial number on my previous gun? will they punch a new one? will they punch the same number, does the railed lowers have numbers on them that they will id to me? Personally, I'd save up for the MC operator, or get one of the SW1911s with the rail. |
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Here's a link to a thread where a member had a Dawson rail installed on his 1911 as an after market option.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=5&f=49&t=69900 Your cost to go with your current plan would be to: 1. Buy a complete pistol (around $700 budget) 2. Buy railed frame (at least $150) 3. Transfer fee from FFL ( at least $25) 4. Gunsmith fitting of slide and barrel and internals to new frame ( at least $200) $1075 Cost to add rail to $700 pistol would be about $100-$150 $850 Cost to buy a Railed pistol to begin with $1000-$1200 ( Or more if you want) |
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Quoted:
I don't have a 1911 yet, and the Springfield MC Operator is way out of my budget. so I was hoping to get the gun i wanted, than simply attach a railed lower when i can afford it. I wont pay more that 700 for the gun alone though, i just cant afford it. So I can have it shipped to me and have a smith install it? what about the serial number on my previous gun? will they punch a new one? will they punch the same number, does the railed lowers have numbers on them that they will id to me? There's no need to alter the s/n on your slide. It's illegal last time I checked to alter the s/n on the frame, and yes, it should have one on there for the transfer. +1 to saving up for it and just buying it that way. If PreBanPatry is around he might tell whether or not he likes his railed PT1911 (I'm pretty sure he has one). They don't cost much last I heard, and while I'm not a Taurus fan, it may be what you're looking for in a first 1911. But with everything I've heard or experienced with Taurus - Caveat Emptor |
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If I was in your situation I would buy this: SA GI
Then add this: Dawson Rail Then send it to a good Smith to have upgraded as needed. This will give you a decent railed 1911 you can shoot and it will be on the cheap and also allow you to upgrade as you see fit. I dont know how well versed you are in smithing a 1911 but I dont have near enough knowledge to build a good reliable 1911, so for me this would be the best option. If you know how to build a 1911 and fit the right parts correctly, then buy the frame/slide combo and have at it. Just my $.02 |
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All the input is great! thanks for all of the advise. One thing though, what parts are generally common among 1911s? do colts pretty well match up with Springfield? do most parts fit on Springfield, colt, S&W, Kimber, Taurus etc??? whats the generalizations? Most parts can be made to work from any of the manufactureres you mention. Smith and Wessons have an external extractor. Kimber has a unique firing pin safety on all of their "II" series guns. Colt series 80 pistols also have a firing pin safety. Springfield rear tang is a .220 radius for most beavertail safeties while Colt uses a .250 radius tang. All parts may require some degree of hand fitting on any of these. This is part of the reason it may be worth while to save and get what you want. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
All the input is great! thanks for all of the advise. One thing though, what parts are generally common among 1911s? do colts pretty well match up with Springfield? do most parts fit on Springfield, colt, S&W, Kimber, Taurus etc??? whats the generalizations? Most parts can be made to work from any of the manufactureres you mention. Smith and Wessons have an external extractor. Kimber has a unique firing pin safety on all of their "II" series guns.As does Smith and Wesson Colt series 80 pistols also have a firing pin safety.Along with Para-Ordnance and Taurus Springfield rear tang is a .220 radius for most beavertail safeties while Colt uses a .250 radius tang.Only on the GI and MilSpec, the Loaded and up have the Wilson/Clark compound radius All parts may require some degree of hand fitting on any of these. This is part of the reason it may be worth while to save and get what you want. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
All the input is great! thanks for all of the advise. One thing though, what parts are generally common among 1911s? do colts pretty well match up with Springfield? do most parts fit on Springfield, colt, S&W, Kimber, Taurus etc??? whats the generalizations? Most parts can be made to work from any of the manufactureres you mention. Smith and Wessons have an external extractor. Kimber has a unique firing pin safety on all of their "II" series guns.As does Smith and Wesson Colt series 80 pistols also have a firing pin safety.Along with Para-Ordnance and Taurus Springfield rear tang is a .220 radius for most beavertail safeties while Colt uses a .250 radius tang.Only on the GI and MilSpec, the Loaded and up have the Wilson/Clark compound radius All parts may require some degree of hand fitting on any of these. This is part of the reason it may be worth while to save and get what you want. Thanks for the expansion on the info. I knew there were some other commonalities and differences. I just couldn't think of all of them. |