Posted: 9/18/2008 11:11:56 AM EDT
| so i have the GI with the little screw lock thing on the bottom piece right under the beavertail, problem being i want to switch this out along with the beavertail and hammer in my project plans. is this going to be any problem that i cant do myself? what im saying is "do i need a certain part, or do drop in replacements work fine?" |
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You can replace it yourself, you'll need a punch to drive out the pin at the bottom and the hammer needs to be cocked back with the grip safety taped or rubber banded down. Be aware though that you can't just replace the housing. The OEM Springfield spring and pin that are inside of the mainspring housing only work correctly with the ILS (Internal Lock) parts. You need to order all three parts. |
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Sorry about that, I missed part of the question. The hammer and beavertail (if it's blended to the frame, not one with the gap between back of frame & sides of beavertail) are not drop in parts. Both need to be fitted. To do so the frame on the Sprinfield needs to be cut down and rounded with a jig. The .220 radius is recommended for Springers. The inside "leg" of the grip safety also needs to be fitted in relation to the sear spring. Grip safety & jig Fitting of the hammer to the sear is not a matter to be taken lightly as an incorrect fit can result in unintended hammer strikes - obviously not a good thing. If you're not skilled in gunsmithing (WECSOG go home) or very comfortable in minute metal working, I might recommend you stay away from the hammer & grip safety. Quite frankly these are critical fire control components and as such carry the greatest risks of anything on the gun if you don't get it right. |
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You can remove the ILS yourself. It's all contained in the mainspring housing below the grip safety / beavertail. All it does is apply pressure to the sear spring that prevents it from moving. Read my first post. There are three drop in parts. A spring, a guide / plunger and the housing. It's like a slide, there are no precision contact parts involved, no critical fire control parts. All it does is houses the spring that pushes on the sear arrangement above. You only need to replace the spring and guide because the length of the ILS arrangement is different. If you use them in a standard mainspring housing the force exerted by the spring is out of whack. Point being, do that yourself first and then you can save a few bucks on the gunsmithing. Do it before you send it out for work because then the smith knows what he's dealing with on the finished piece. All of the working parts in a 1911 are synchronized, it's the Achilles heel of the design. Get a spring or two out of whack and things start to go south. |
Could have saved me so much typing. 
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