Posted: 6/28/2008 3:51:28 PM EDT
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I've always taken my Kimbers apart without the tool, just push in on the recoil plug thingy, twist barrel bushing, etc. etc. Was in a gun store looking at a used Colt LW commander a while back, asked if I could take it apart. The guy behind the counter asked if I knew how. I said yes. He said to describe how. So I did. He said "no, watch this" and pulled the slide back a ways, pulled the slide release out, and then just pulled the whole slide/barrel/recoil spring assembly off the frame. He insisted that this was the way to take apart a 1911. I really didn't care about whether I was wrong or not, but I did kinda look like an idiot in front of my girlfriend 'cuz I stood there and said 'huh'. Is this the "proper" way to take down a 1911? I doubt it would be possible with a tighter gun...this one was loose as hell... |
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The problem with taking it down that way is if you're not very, very careful you're unintentionally going to shoot the recoil spring out of the slide. Relieving tension on the recoil spring as you've described is the proper and preferred method. As is quiet common your gun store clerk is a twit. 
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Thanks...I figured he was full of it when he was talking to another customer about Aimpoints with 550,000 hour battery life that were standard USMC issue... I shall continue to take down my 1911s in the slower fashion 
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pistols < 4.25" REQUIRE "gun store guy" method Commanders and Gov'ts strip the way you and most have added. The quote above can be the exception to the 4.25"+ rule. |
No funky wannabe baby 1911s here...Just 5" models 
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The gun store guy method is the proper way to take it appart if it has a FLGR like say a Kimber Ultra or Pro. If it has a bushing, then you should take it apart the way you describe. For the Colt officer it's a little different as the spring plug is modified a bit, but it's esentially the same. |
Ha, he was trying to sell her a .40 cal micro Kahr because it was a great "woman's gun" and it "acted like a revolver." She's not in to shooting all that much, but even she could tell that he was stretching the truth a bit. |
I tried it today and found it to be a good way to keep all the assorted parts in place so as to put it in the foam cutout of my .22 conversion's case. Other than that, though, I think I'll stay with the traditional method. |
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I don't think the gunstore guy was trying to show off or make you feel dumb, I believe he was showing you a different way to do this. I do it the gunstore guy way on all my 1911's. I pop the slide stop out, and walk the slide off while starting with my pinky finger, then ring, then middle, and then index finger to hold the recoil spring from poppin out and the guide in place to keep it from shooting across the shop or more importantly, into the trigger guard or checkering. I find this process 10 times better than trying to push the spring plug and rotating the bushing over the plug - and it keeps from scratching the plug's checkering too This is very important when delivering a brand new, custom built 1911 to very picky customers. I find in my shop it's best to let the customer give the gun it's first scratch or wear mark.Don't hold any angst toword the gunshop guy, he was trying to help. To each their own though. |
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After a smith showed me the "gunstore guy's" method, I prefer that method. It's easier and quicker for me to just pop the slide stop out of my Baer than it is to try to turn the bushing with a tool. I was told by another smith that if you've got a very tight bushing, this is actually preferred as it has less impact on the bushing/barrel fit. Whatever floats your boat, I guess. |
Same reason I usually take mine down that way, but I admit, I have always done it that way anyhow. I see no negative impact from this method. |
Well, he did seem to have a condescending attitude about it. But I'll give him the benefit of the doubt. The part in red - 
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