Posted: 3/24/2008 9:54:38 AM EDT
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I basically got a 1954 colt 1911a1 for less than 100 dollars. It has bad pitting on a lot of the slide and a couple of places on the frame. I don't plan on restoring it, and wanted to put on a few newer parts, and was wondering how bad it would be. Or rather, many ask about building one, and everyone says buy one instead, so is it hard to do the following. New barrel. Not sure here, maybe just a direct replacement for 50 bucks from one of the major sellers. I also thought about a NM barrel and bushing, but how much is depenent on the slide here? Why do they sell NM bushings by themselves? Don't you need the right barrel to go with it? Also I keep seeing 3 different types of barrel mods(?) for each barrel type. What do they mean, and is any better than the other? Like Nowlin-Wilson Ramped, Para-Clark Ramped etc.. Extended beavertail grip saftey. I keep seeing this as a stand alone, and with other parts as a kit. Is there something I need to make sure it works correctly? Also a commander type hammer. Same as above, as a stand alone, but also with a kit and other parts. Is there something that has to be changed at the same time? |
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Shoot it just as it is for a while...use FMJ ammo. See how it performs for you now before you change anything. NM barrel and bushing must be fitted to the gun...a good barrel and bushing will run around $200 with proper fitting close to the same price...$350+ total. You can have a NM type barrel bushing fitted to the factory barrel for much less and it will usually help accuracy a bit, but will not give you 'target grade' results. If this was mine, I would never consider major mods. You definitely will spend serious bucks on a ramped barrel, since the frame must be machined to accept it. That is, material must be removed and you will never again be able to use a standard barrel. Exactly what...if anything...is wrong with the barrel you have now? Many slightly pitted GI barrels will shoot superbly, believe it or not. The beavertail safety will also need to be fitted. You can get a 'drop in' unit or a model that requires milling off part of the frame to fit properly. Naturally, the ones that require frame mods are the best for most of us. The hammer is personal preference and the 'kits' you see are probably 'all inclusive' with sear and all included...they may or may not 'drop in'...if not you need a GOOD gunsmith to do the work...more money! The military slides are softer than commercial guns, and while that may not be an issue with only ocassional shooting, it most certainly IS an issue with a gun that is shot a lot...a 'lot' being 20,000 or more rounds a year...usually more. In your shoes, I would do the least I had to to get this old warhorse up and running correctly, buy some good Wilson magazines, and leave it alone if it worked. I think you would end up spending more to get it to a high level of performance than it is worth, and it is likely a very good combat gun just as it is right now. JMO |
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The barrel currently in there worries me. Can't put it any other way. If it was supposed to be blue, it is all gone. No pitting in the barrel itself as far as I can tell, but the legs(don't know what else to call them,) where the link is pinned on, is chewed up for lack of a better word. Several people have expressed concern over shooting out of a 40+ year old barrel with modern ammo as well. I see the logic in leaving it as it is, at the very least, I think I will look up the gi replacment barrels I have seen floating for 50 bucks. New ones as I understand it. |
lol how old do you think your average M1 garand barrelis? 40 years isnt shit, BTW got any pics? best bet would get a Smith to do an Eval on it. what part of TX are you in? |
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I don't have a pic of that barrel. Lol, guess you are right about the age. Didn't think about it that way. www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=683676 This was when I was trying to figure out how much to pay. I am in allen, was thinking of taking it to gun masters, or a buddy of mine has a friend that used to build high end 1911's for competition, and I might have him look at it and save the 40 bucks. Trying to keep this cheap, but don't want to skimp anywhere important. Oh I got rid of that comp. |
Just looked at that thread. The commercial models are made from better stuff than the military guns (which I thought you had), although original military guns do now bring high prices. Take it to a good 'smith' and tell em to get it running and safe to shoot...cheap...that is all you need right now. There are tons of finish options and the gun is never gonna be any sort of valuable collectors item, so go slow. Worst comes to worst, black krylon will keep rust away and can be easily stripped later. Age matters not on the barrel,,,condition is all. Used to be you could find new GI chrome lined barrels cheap...not so today...and you can't have my last one either.  Good luck. Don't let a salesman talk you into too much too fast with the pistol...it is still a nice shooyer if that barrel is OK, just as it is. |
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To be honest, use USGI parts to replace any worn items and leave it alone. You will be better off to use it to get the 1911 fever and then purchase a second one with all the whistles and bells. If you really have to, shop Brownells. You can throw $100 worth of parts on it and buy a new barrel and bushing if you really feel the need to tinker with it. Adding a ramped barrel requires professional fitting and is not necessary for a shooter. The drop in beavertails are fugly. 
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Thanks for the ideas. here are some pics of the barrel, and why I was concerned.  That doesn't look right.  and it looks like it should have been blued, but every where is gone except between the lugs. Here is what I thought it should look like, since this looked in new shape.  That was a wwII barrel I sold, since it would help someone finish there wWII colt. Its feet(again for lack of a better term) look good 
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Looks like it definitely needs a new barrel. Other than that, it's a good candidate for anything from a moderate to a full house custom. It all depends on what you want and your ability to afford what you want. Colts make good base guns for most custom 'smiths to work on so let your conscience be your guide.
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