Posted: 7/8/2007 6:38:22 AM EDT
|
1. How does the parkerizing hold up to Kydex? If I get one, it will spend most of it's time in a black leather USGI flap holster, but I am looking at a Comp-Tac Kydex C-T.A.C. IWB holster for occasional concealed carry. 2. If the parkerizing doesn't hold up to Kydex well would it be a crime to have it refinished in Gray Moly Resin (A match to older gray military parkerizing)? It is a replica in any case--I'm just looking for something that looks like the 1911A1s I used in the Army in the early '80s. IIRC Wilson Combat and others use Moly Resin on 1911s, and I've used it on ARs with excellent results. 3. How do the slide stops, extractors and ejectors hold up on the GIs? I read a review that said "the small parts appear to be a mix of investment cast and MIM (metal injection molded) steel." The review also said "I could not tell if [the extractor] is made of MIM, cast or barstock steel" and "I was displeased to see [the slide stop] is clearly made of MIM steel . . ." If no one has had problems with these parts, I'll probably leave them alone ("If it ain't broke . . ."). If they are a problem, I'll replace them with |
|
1. Parkerizing holds up pretty well to kydex, better than most spray on finishes, just make sure to keep the holster clean. Most finish wear realted to kydex is caused by grit getting in the holster. Or holsters that only use a few points for weapons retetion (i.e. the trigger guard). 2. Any finish you use will be subject to holster wear. If the gun is brand new then degrease it and spray it now if you are going to. Most aftermarket finnishes recomend a fresh park job before spraying. If it is used leave it alone untill you start to see problems. Without proper preperation any finish you aply will be less durable than what you currently have. 3. MIM parts are OK. Some have reported premature failures on MIM parts. However I have seen brand new barstock Wilson parts fail in the first few rounds. You have less of a chance of failure with a barstock part than a cast one. But there is still a chance of failure. Kimbers small parts are almost all MIM so replacing them with Kimber parts would be pointless. The parts advertised as bullet proof are made by Wilson Combat and have a lifetime warranty. You may also want to look at Ed Brown. If this is a carry peice then you may want to swap the parts out. Personally other than the extractor I wouldn't worry about it. Provided you run about 500 rounds through the gun before you trust it (regardless of what parts are in the gun this is a must to test function and reliability). |
|
1) My GI had some slightly smoothed areas of the finish where the holster repeatedly rubbed, but I haven't had it all that long. Like most matte-type finishes, it will smooth out, making shiny areas, and it will wear eventually. 2) I don't know about that particular G.M.R. finish you sleak of , but if it the Park did wear enought to warrant a refin, I'd do it in a quality blued finish, Ala WWI ;) 3) Any small part can break, cast, Mim, or forged. It's just easier to break a Mim, or a poorly cast item. Some take more of a direct beating than others, so all I replaced was the slide stop. I got a Wilson. When you "eventually" replace the other bitparts by all means, get barstock. |
|
Thank you both for the replies. I meant the Wilson "bullet proof" small parts, but accidentally typed Kimber. See my correction above. I don't have the GI yet. I'll buy it new. I've refinished several parkerized steel and anodized aluminum items with Moly Resin, and understand the importance of proper preparation. IF I refinish the GI, I'll do it right away, and thoroughly clean/degrease everything before spraying. The point about keeping the gun and Kydex clean to minimize wear is a good one. Since I don't plan to carry the GI concealed very often, the best approach may be to clean the inside of the holster and outside of the gun before concealed carry. |