Posted: 6/9/2007 9:17:08 AM EDT
|
I have handled about 5, maybe 7 total series 80 Colt Government models and tried dry firing each one. All of them had horrible trigger pulls. Is there a production year or "high water mark" for the Series 80" guns where the trigger pulls from the factroy were good? Are they easy to do a trigger job on? |
All the whining about Series 80 triggers is mostly unfounded. They can be cleaned up nicely if the gunsmith knows what he's doing. This is my opinion. Your opinion may vary. ZM |
|
my answer to the Series 80 f/p block is usually to remove it and install a spacer. however, it's not hard to polish it up and get it almost as slick as the proper, JMB un-lawyered trigger. (or you could just get the Cyl & Slide ser 80 slick set for about $50 from Brownell's) The little plunger that blocks the f/p is on a pretty light spring--only adds a few ounces to the trigger pull. The down side is that there's going to be a bit of take up to actuate the levers enough to fully depress the plunger. It only requires about 1/16"....we're not talking about adding a lot of travel. If your trigger is too heavy/crunchy, try 'boosting' it a few times. Make sure the gun is unloaded. Cock the hammer. Pinch hammer between thumb and fore finger and apply forward pressure....push hard. While you're pushing the hammer, grip the pistol and pull the trigger. (careful--you don't want to get pinched) This eases the sharp edges from the hammer hooks and sear engagement surfaces. Don't do this a lot or it can cause premature failure of the hammer/sear. 3 or 4 times should do it. This won't replace a good trigger job, but I've seen this trick cut a full 2 lbs from a factory trigger without even taking the pistol apart. ***note: don't do this with MIM parts unless you're looking for an excuse to buy a nice hammer/sear set. eta: to answer your question--I've rarely seen a good factory trigger on any new Series 80. Most were between 5 and 7 lbs. Expect to spend a few bucks for a trigger job regardless of the vintage....but use a 'smith who knows 1911s. I've bought more 1911s that were 'broken' by poor 'smithing than I can remember.....cuz I get 'em CHEAP 
|