Posted: 6/8/2007 5:33:44 AM EDT
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I was given an old Colt 1911 and it has this problem-- Scroll down to - SEAR ENGAGEMENT TEST: www.m1911.org/technic25.htm Is this something I may be able to fix with a simple adjustment and or new parts? Or is it best left to a 1911 smith? |
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Simple - That all depends on how much you know about the 1911. I can strip the 1911 completely in about 15 mintes. Down to the smallest pin and spring. You can learn to do the same thing in about an hour of studying the take down procedures. So I can replace the Sear spring in your Pistol, pretty quickly. That's where I would start if I were you. Ordering a Hammer and Sear could cost you well over a hundred dollars........ !!! So that wouldn't be my first try at the fix. If you enjoy working on 1911's ...........and since this is an old gun .....I would encourage you to do some research about dissassembly .........and learn to strip the old Horse down. The Sear spring [ buy a Wolf Sear spring ] is not hard to replace........ and might cure your problem. After the spring replacement........ if you need a hammer and Sear ......... you will also need a new thumb safety to be fitted, along with a grip safety - to the NEW Sear. Now you are getting into the Gunsmith area unless you know a lot about the 1911.......... Hope this helps a little. JF. |
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Detail strip the frame back down, smoke the primary sear and the hammer sear with a sharpie pen, then put the frame back together and do a few hammer cocks/trigger pulls to see what the current sear engagement is on the FCG now. The rubbed off mark lines on the hammer will give you this, and even tell you if the sear engagement are square or not to each other (look for areas on the trigger sear, and primary sear that the marks where not rubbed off that should have made contacts on each other, but didn’t). Now depending on the trigger weight type, the sear, and even the disco, you will may need to reset the leaf spring tensions weights on the sear and the trigger bar/disco to work with the current group if the sears are still clean with the needed engagement. Bottom line is if the sear engagements are clean (at least .018 or better and squarely tracking each other with both sears edges still sharp), the disco/trigger bar spring leaf set to 24oz, disco spring leaf set to 48oz, then this would produce a trigger pull of around 4.5lbs, and should work with even the heaviest of FCG parts (trigger not dancing back and tripping the sear on slide lock up). And a primer to get you started on setting the spring leaf tensions correctly, www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=349 |
| I'm gonna' say you take it to a competent gunsmith, show him what the problem is, and let him fix it. There are too many variables and way too much bad information on the internet for me to recommend you try fixing it yourself. Unless you already know proper geometry of a 1911 ignition system you likely may end up chasing your tail. |
LOL... I do enough of that already.  Thanks again. |