Posted: 3/25/2007 9:50:27 PM EDT
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My gun is an older model "Loaded" Is this typical of the older ones or is this just how they do things? 
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Kimbers, Springfield "Loaded" models, and Colt 'XSE' crud. Get a GI style and mod it professionally for a better fit/blend... 
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Here are some pics of a Wilson drop-in beavertail on my SN Colt Combat Commander. I did not do the install, I let my 'smith do that. At $37.00 a pop, I was not too comfortable doing it myself...I am a scaredy-cat!  Sorry if the pics are too big....the grip is much more comfortable than the factory version.  
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I would opt for a gunsmith to install the new one, but that's just my lack of confidence on doing such alterations on anything I'm going to carry. The article in the current (#59) Brownells has a straightforward how to on installing a beavertail with an URL which gives even further info on the process. |
| Not trying to hijack, and this does pertain to grip safetys, but why doesn't someone come up with a aftermarket one that fit exactly into the existing point but has a pinned in bushing that'll rotate as you depress it? Whats so darn hard about making something like that that'll fit with no gaps? As long as its within a few thou of the spur it would look great and do the job. |
I don't know what the big deal is. The grip safety is possibly the easiest part to fit PERFECTLY. I bought a Smith & Alexander grip safety with JIG. With the proper jig it's virtually impossible to mess up the install. This is the install I did my first try. The big problem is getting over the FEAR of cutting the frame.
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They sell the safety and jig together. With the jig it's almost impossible to screw up. Adjusting it for disengaging the trigger is pretty simple too. The hardest part is getting over the initial fear. I had a "gunsmith" in NYC DO a grip safety years ago. It was the worst butchering job I've ever seen. That's when I decided if I want anything done right I'll do it myself (or pay BIG bucks for a REAL PRO).  |
My loaded was the same. Really bugged me. Eventually, after learning a bit more about the hand and gripframe interface I was able to get a LOT of mileage from just softening a lot of the edges where the web of the hand meets the gun and doing some creative ( but attractive ) hammer re-profiling. Still, a well done beaver tail looks great.....but I have learned that it's best to let a good 1911 smith fit it for you. |
| I've never seen a beavertail fit that impressed me on a gun that cost less than a grand, and Springfield is among the worst offenders. I would like to reiterate the point that although a higher quality gun and a loaded model or Kimber may have the same things written on the spec sheet the difference in the metalwork is readily apparent. I suspect that in this forum I am preaching to the choir, but I had to say it anyway. |
At least on the Colt XSEs, they just pop in that stupid looking duckbill safety and don't mess with the tangs. |
nicely done |
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I prefer duracoat over Parkerizing... The only thing is that you're going to want to let it 'CURE' and 'Harden' by letting the gun sit unused for about 1 month!!! YES. Old Painless said he 'cured' his Sistema in the oven for a certain period of time, but that just helps DRY the duracoating. In order for one to PROPERLY CURE it needs to sit and harden over a period of 30 days or so... This will reduce the likelihood of the duracoat flaking off after its first use like his Sistema experienced. |