Posted: 11/18/2005 3:31:04 PM EDT
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I have springfield loaded (9mm) that I want to put a new beavertail on. It's not a bad gun, but I can see a small casting defect on the beavertail, and since I'm anal, I want a new one. (It's not big enough to justify a trip to springfield) Anyway, I like the idea of the ed brown memory groove, but I understand it requires welding a bit to the tabs on the back of the frame. So, if I want to avoid welding, what beavertail should I go with? I don't mind taking away, just don't want to have to add. While were at it, I wouldn't mind having a higher pad on my Kimber Gold Match. What's a good beavertail for the Kimber? Thanks, Wolffie |
| Thanks, much appreciated. I guess if that's my only option I may just as well start polishing on the defect and see if it's only superficial before going through the trouble of a new one. If that doesn't work, then I'll look into the S&A. I don't want it to look half assed. The frame already extends past the beavertail enough to annoy me and I figured that if I were to re-do that, I might as well put a new grip safety in. |
| I've used the S&A grip safeties with the memory bump on 3 different guns and have been very happy with them. I fitted them to milspec frames though, and I have never tried one on a loaded gun. Listen to hobbs first and foremost, he has much more experience with all matters 1911 than me. |
You don't know me at all! I've just seen a lot of your posts and they have been very informative. Most of what you have said about the 1911 I agree with and I've learned somethings from your posts too. I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I can tell when somebody knows more than I do. As for the Wilson safety, will it work with a little blending on an SA loaded model? Do you need to add any material to the frame or not? It seems like SA cuts the tangs a little short and radiuses them too much. Asking because I've not tried it. |
I would try a light sedative... much cheaper than getting your 1911 fixed/worked on :-) |
You might be surprised. Gun work isn't that expensive, especially if you're doing much of it yourself. Retail on a beavertail is only about 35 bucks, and those Kuhnhausen books can make a guy feel like a hero. There's a lot of satisfaction in finishing an upgrade on something and getting it "just how you want it." Benzodiazepines aren't that expensive, but I've still got a year and a half before I can write for them. 
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Thanks for the info. I've layed in bed for hours trying to figure out the right configuration for a current build, or how I'm going to accomplish the end result. AR configurations are even wrose. |
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I wish I would have read this before placing my last Brownells order. I ordered an S&A grip safety to replace the one that came on my Loaded model. I read this thread about an hour after submitting the order. D'oh. The S&A got here yesterday and I promptly attempted to throw it on. It's not a perfect fit, but it'll do. It needs to be narrowed just a bit, and the frame tangs are undercut just enough to be kinda ugly looking. But since I don't have any metal-putting-on tools (especially for stainless) I'm just SOL for now. It's a lot better than the blued metal grip safety that I mistakenly stripped thinking it was stainless. That sucker was rusting PDQ. Bottom line: it went on a hell of a lot better than the Ed Brown beavertail I got for my Kimber TLE/RL. I need to find a gunsmith, dammit. |
Sub, where in VA are you? If you're nearby, maybe I can try to help you out with the Brown on the Kimber. I'm no 'smith, but I can get by. Shoot me an email or pm. |