Posted: 8/7/2015 10:25:06 PM EDT
| Had a trigger job done by local gunsmith. It cut the weight to about 3.5#, but I was hoping for it to be more crisp. Still seems like there is quite a bit of spongey take up. What do you suggest? |
| The GC has the problem of the wide steel trigger limiting how low you can go for sear engagement and pull weight before you get doubling from trigger bounce. EGW (or dawson, SOME ONE) makes a wide aluminum trigger that can allow you go much lower and still have a safe tigger. |
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Quoted:
The GC has the problem of the wide steel trigger limiting how low you can go for sear engagement and pull weight before you get doubling from trigger bounce. EGW (or dawson, SOME ONE) makes a wide aluminum trigger that can allow you go much lower and still have a safe tigger. I have an old Videki trigger in mine. Aftermarket is usually the way to go but like everything else will need some fitting |
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Quoted:
The GC has the problem of the wide steel trigger limiting how low you can go for sear engagement and pull weight before you get doubling from trigger bounce. EGW (or dawson, SOME ONE) makes a wide aluminum trigger that can allow you go much lower and still have a safe tigger. The sear depressor lever is supposed to help get around this problem. However, it's a good idea to ditch the steel GC trigger (WTF, Colt? Really?) anyway. If the gun is a Series 80, the owner may be feeling the firing pin safety disengaging during the pretravel. Pulling out the Series 80 parts and installing a frame shim is a quick way to take care of that. If you want to keep the S80 safety, polishing the levers and plunger will help minimize the feeling, if indeed it's a S80 gun. |
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Every time I've squared up the hooks and put a proper edge on the sear, I've ended up with a pistol that gave a crisp release. The design of the pistol lends itself to consistent results if the 'smith has the proper equipment and knowledge.
"Sponginess" in the JMB pistol is usually the result of failing to back-bevel the sear after getting the leading edge done and the hammer hooks squared. I'm guessing a little bit of back beveling will clean up the break. The weight of the trigger pull has little to do with the sear and a lot to do with the weight of the mainspring (hammer spring) and sear spring. I really think of the weight of the pull and the crispness of the pull as two, exclusive issues on the JMB pistol. Surprised to hear he returned the gun to you in that condition. |
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OK, thus is a Gold Cup and I want to do this right. Who do you recommend I send this to? I'm in Tucson, AZ, so the smith will need to be an FFL for me to ship to. I'm willing to wait a bit for the trigger done right.
Not sure I like the wider target trigger and might like a standard width trigger. I also had the local smithy install a wider longer safety...turns out I prefer the factory safety and want it re-installed. Thanks for your input. |
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Quoted:
OK, thus is a Gold Cup and I want to do this right. Who do you recommend I send this to? I'm in Tucson, AZ, so the smith will need to be an FFL for me to ship to. I'm willing to wait a bit for the trigger done right. Not sure I like the wider target trigger and might like a standard width trigger. I also had the local smithy install a wider longer safety...turns out I prefer the factory safety and want it re-installed. Thanks for your input. There isn't much that can be done about the wide Gold Cup trigger as far as I know. One of the reasons I don't care for them personally. As for smiths, I don't have any firsthand recommendations, but there are a buttload of good smiths in AZ, like Yost & Burton in Tempe, Don Williams and Dave Lauck in Chino Valley, Chuck Rogers in Prescott Valley. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if any of them will do piecemeal jobs like this any longer, and I wouldn't be surprised if many of them are no longer taking any work at all. |