Posted: 9/28/2014 12:50:39 PM EDT
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Kimberly (my Kimber Classic1) doesn't like frog lube!
I've used frog lube on ALL my guns, and run it through its paces and I've had no issues and always had a good experience. Except my 1911. The lube gets thick and heavy, and turns brown. It becomes so bad, the slide takes about 5 seconds to move forward! I gave it a second chance and tried it again. Same issue. No more dog lube for Kimberly. Anybody else with this problem? |
| I've only been using it on my carry guns-1911s and CZs-mainly cause I got tired of smelling gun lube and staining pants and shirts. Each one has been tested with FL in summer and winter temps and ran fine, but there is only a tiny bit of visible lube left on them. I have seen no adverse wear either, and some of the guns are Alum framed. |
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I've only been using it on my carry guns-1911s and CZs-mainly cause I got tired of smelling gun lube and staining pants and shirts. Each one has been tested with FL in summer and winter temps and ran fine, but there is only a tiny bit of visible lube left on them. I have seen no adverse wear either, and some of the guns are Alum framed. Does FLORIDA have winter temps? I cleaned my kimber with clp after shooting it tbe first time, I have yet to see frog lube at any of the shops near me. |
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Does FLORIDA have winter temps? I cleaned my kimber with clp after shooting it tbe first time, I have yet to see frog lube at any of the shops near me. Quoted:
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I've only been using it on my carry guns-1911s and CZs-mainly cause I got tired of smelling gun lube and staining pants and shirts. Each one has been tested with FL in summer and winter temps and ran fine, but there is only a tiny bit of visible lube left on them. I have seen no adverse wear either, and some of the guns are Alum framed. Does FLORIDA have winter temps? I cleaned my kimber with clp after shooting it tbe first time, I have yet to see frog lube at any of the shops near me. Dvcer shows Colorado as his location they definitely winter weather. Arizona has winter weather too and again I have no issues with frog lube. I dip the tip of a q tip in the bottle and rub it on the spots that need lube. 1 or 2 qtip is all I need for the whole pistol to get lubed. Very little. |
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I have the Kimber Ultra Raptor Stainless 1911, and I do remember my LGS telling me to use a quality oil on the Kimber rails and slide, rather than grease. This is due to the tight tolerance levels of most Kimber 1911's. The grease is said to slow down the action of the firearm.
The operating manual also states that if the oil contains Teflon, be sure to shake well before applying, as Teflon settles when left overnight. So, basically, Kimbers run light (oil) and tight .... 
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Does FLORIDA have winter temps? I cleaned my kimber with clp after shooting it tbe first time, I have yet to see frog lube at any of the shops near me. Quoted:
Quoted:
I've only been using it on my carry guns-1911s and CZs-mainly cause I got tired of smelling gun lube and staining pants and shirts. Each one has been tested with FL in summer and winter temps and ran fine, but there is only a tiny bit of visible lube left on them. I have seen no adverse wear either, and some of the guns are Alum framed. Does FLORIDA have winter temps? I cleaned my kimber with clp after shooting it tbe first time, I have yet to see frog lube at any of the shops near me. FL=Frog lube But for the record, I spend a lot of time in Florida too, pistol is always with me on the water fishing. No corrosion at all, even while my stainless steel fittings on the boat are showing rust. I took the baer 45 and a cz p01 out last winter in 10 deg temps to get a feel for cold weather reliability. Guns rode in the back of a truck for 1 hr, sat out at the range while I got a fire going and were then shot. Both ran fine, as usual. |
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I have the Kimber Ultra Raptor Stainless 1911, and I do remember my LGS telling me to use a quality oil on the Kimber rails and slide, rather than grease. This is due to the tight tolerance levels of most Kimber 1911's. The grease is said to slow down the action of the firearm. The operating manual also states that if the oil contains Teflon, be sure to shake well before applying, as Teflon settles when left overnight. So, basically, Kimbers run light (oil) and tight .... I've used frog lube for about a year now on my guns. I put it on lightly with a small paintbrush. Never had any problems with it. Just cleaned my Nighthawk yesterday for the first time in 2 months with approximately 400 rounds through it, was dirty but no issues of what was mentioned above.Im pretty sure my Nighthawk has "tighter tolerances" maybe its just a Kimberly issue 
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i use mobil one on my kimber and never have any issues. Same here. A 1 quart bottle of Mobil 1 5w30 for $8.50 and a couple of cheap travel sized bottles from WalMart for $1. Enough oil to last a long time. Will likely stand up to abuse better than 90% of the boutique "gun oils" out there. I do keep a couple of cans of Ballistol on the shelf for general cleaning and lube as well. I keep a small bottle of Rem-Oil ($3) in my gear bag for at the range type use, normally for other people that forgot to lube their guns. Your lube doesnt have to be $20+ a bottle for it to be effective. |
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Anybody else with this problem? Yes, same problem here. Followed the instructions to the letter, even made sure to wipe off the excess. While at the range (and the gun was warm), the slide got so slow it was amazing. Caused all sorts of feeding issues. Happened on two different 1911's. I cleaned it all off, went back to everything else I've used and never looked back. Everything else works fine on these guns (Tetra Gun Grease, Aeroshell 33MS grease, Lubriplate, CLP, any other oil) |
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I have the Kimber Ultra Raptor Stainless 1911, and I do remember my LGS telling me to use a quality oil on the Kimber rails and slide, rather than grease. This is due to the tight tolerance levels of most Kimber 1911's. The grease is said to slow down the action of the firearm. The operating manual also states that if the oil contains Teflon, be sure to shake well before applying, as Teflon settles when left overnight. So, basically, Kimbers run light (oil) and tight .... They told you that about a Kimber? 
http://www.brianenos.com/store/slide-glide.html Lite Viscosity. |
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They told you that about a Kimber?
Yes, and my Kimber, the Ultra no less, has been flawless. http://www.brianenos.com/store/slide-glide.html Lite Viscosity. Quoted:
Quoted:
I have the Kimber Ultra Raptor Stainless 1911, and I do remember my LGS telling me to use a quality oil on the Kimber rails and slide, rather than grease. This is due to the tight tolerance levels of most Kimber 1911's. The grease is said to slow down the action of the firearm. The operating manual also states that if the oil contains Teflon, be sure to shake well before applying, as Teflon settles when left overnight. So, basically, Kimbers run light (oil) and tight .... They told you that about a Kimber?
Yes, and my Kimber, the Ultra no less, has been flawless. http://www.brianenos.com/store/slide-glide.html Lite Viscosity. |
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I use frog lube mostly to clean, but like others here I use Mobile1 in a pinch with stainless guns, and TW25B for all my steel semis from sig to 1911 and on my M16's.
Never a problem with any of them, but I use frog lube more to clean. A buddy at State Department used to repair their Uzi's and he swore by the Sentry Solutions moly lube and dry film powder. He put a shit ton a 9mm ammo through a new Mini Uzi they inherited from somewhere, and he said after 10,000 rounds fired and numerous cleaning and reapplication of Sentry when needed, there was hardly any bolt track wear on the inside of the receiver - which is hard to believe. He did say the chambers were coated with bullet lube so bad they had to soak in solvent and use a kleenbore device in the bore to remove the jacket fouling. I have the back half of that Mini Uzi on my desk at work when they cut it up and it looked like a new gun, but 10,000 rounds is not a lot of 9mm ammo in my eyes in a subgun. The system is expensive and the marine cloth, tuffcloth needs to be redone with mineral spirits every once in a while Out |
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Then Don't use it.........
Just use a grease like shooters choice for the slide and barrel, and light oil like clp, mobil 1, etc for the rotating parts and rust protection . What lube were you "smelling". Please don't tell me you were using Hoppes #9 as "lube". I've seen this more than a few times so I have to ask. |
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My S&W 1911TA gets cleaned with CLP(Break-Free or Slip 2000, depending on which I got for free the last time), and greased with whatever cheap moly bearing grease that Pep Boys sells. They are cheap and not boutique, but they work and can be found almost anywhere.
It's not rocket-surgery, people... |