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AR15.COM
3/15/2014 6:30:15 PM EDT
New to 1911's and Traded off a complete AR lower and added $500 and got a Springfield 1911a1 loaded + 100rds.

How did i do and what does this thing require besides ammo? I already had it field stripped and want to get rid of that stupid allen screw. any suggestions on guide rods?

3/15/2014 6:36:51 PM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:


New to 1911's and Traded off a complete AR lower and added $500 and got a Springfield 1911a1 loaded + 100rds.



How did i do and what does this thing require besides ammo? I already had it field stripped and want to get rid of that stupid allen screw. any suggestions on guide rods?



http://i351.photobucket.com/albums/q480/mackdog_22/IMG_0987.jpg
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A standard spring guide is the way to go. SA Loaded are excellent pistols. A good quality holster rig is always a good investment.



 
3/16/2014 6:58:42 AM EDT
[#2]
Very nice
3/16/2014 8:18:55 AM EDT
[#3]
If you favor a full length guide rod, I suggest Wilson Combat one piece. I love my Springfield TRP, but that two piece had to go.
3/16/2014 2:02:48 PM EDT
[#4]
I wouldn't mind a full length but i hate that screw! is there any reason to go full length over the standard?

I am completely new to 1911's. I am a glock guy but no collection is complete without at least one 1911.
3/17/2014 7:15:07 AM EDT
[#5]
Its a personal preference more then anything. Many 1911s have a G.I. standard (short) guide rod and even the USMC newer models requested it stay that way. I converted to full length after getting my Springfield TRP which came with one standard. It just shot so damn well.... I am sure that had alot more to do with the sum of all parts not just the guide rod.... but whats the harm.

The wilson one piece has no allen screw. Its just like any other full length guide rod system for a Beretta 92F or other non-captured recoil springs.
3/17/2014 9:09:08 AM EDT
[#6]
I would replace the grip screws with standard slotted ones when time and cash permits.

At some point allen head or torx head always gave me problems, may of taken years ,but always at least one had to have the heads machined off.

recoil system your choice, but a flgr gives no benfit over the GI standard, unless your using your frame for more than one cailber.
3/17/2014 11:48:30 AM EDT
[#7]
I am sticking to .45 for now. I see no purpose to switch when switching the barrel will change the sighting slightly correct?
3/17/2014 12:10:28 PM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:
I am sticking to .45 for now. I see no purpose to switch when switching the barrel will change the sighting slightly correct?
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You would also have to get a new slide for each cailber unless your sticking with a 45 acp rim size.

So I would just go with the GI plug and guide.
3/17/2014 12:39:39 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Quoted:


You would also have to get a new slide for each cailber unless your sticking with a 45 acp rim size.

So I would just go with the GI plug and guide.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I am sticking to .45 for now. I see no purpose to switch when switching the barrel will change the sighting slightly correct?


You would also have to get a new slide for each cailber unless your sticking with a 45 acp rim size.

So I would just go with the GI plug and guide.


is there any reason not to go with the Wilson Combat

also Plug

ETA: I'd like to keep the parts stainless.
3/17/2014 1:49:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Good looking gun.

You might look at a wilsons guide rod. I have the officers size in a sa compact.

That being said. if the gun shoots well with the existing full length guide rod then no testing is needed other wise I would test the gun with the new guide rod.

You might also check if the feed ramp is polished for reliability.
3/17/2014 3:50:51 PM EDT
[#12]


Quote History
Quoted:
is there any reason not to go with the Wilson Combat





also Plug





ETA: I'd like to keep the parts stainless.
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Quoted:





Quoted:




Quoted:


I am sticking to .45 for now. I see no purpose to switch when switching the barrel will change the sighting slightly correct?






You would also have to get a new slide for each cailber unless your sticking with a 45 acp rim size.





So I would just go with the GI plug and guide.






is there any reason not to go with the Wilson Combat





also Plug





ETA: I'd like to keep the parts stainless.
Those are fine parts.  The parts that p226guy listed are also excellent.  You won't be able to see the blue guide rod and I believe it to be better quality than a similar stainless part.


 
3/17/2014 4:30:30 PM EDT
[#13]
You don't have to do this, but I replaced the ILS mainspring housing and the internals on my Loaded. I also switched out those queer torx head screws for flat head screws.
3/17/2014 5:53:47 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted:
You don't have to do this, but I replaced the ILS mainspring housing and the internals on my Loaded. I also switched out those queer torx head screws for flat head screws.
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Maybe down the road i will. This is my first 1911 so those things aren't super important yet. If i don't like how it shoot or feels i may change them out.
3/17/2014 6:21:16 PM EDT
[#15]

Quote History
Quoted:


You don't have to do this, but I replaced the ILS mainspring housing and the internals on my Loaded. I also switched out those queer torx head screws for flat head screws.
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The truth is spoken.  No need for that ILS shit to complicate things and any proper 1911 has standard slotted grip screws.  
3/19/2014 6:46:50 AM EDT
[#16]
I purchased the wilson combat guide rod and flat plug. Also a set of grip screws for $2.
3/19/2014 6:51:41 AM EDT
[#17]
Good looking.



Is that front strap checkered, or is that one of those Wilson stick on things?
3/19/2014 6:57:44 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote History
Quoted:
Good looking.

Is that front strap checkered, or is that one of those Wilson stick on things?
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It is checkered! I tried to get info from springfield about what modifications may have been done, but they wouldn't tell me anything. I know it was made 7/29/2005 but that is all they would tell.