Posted: 1/24/2014 1:12:59 PM EDT
| I want the ILS removed and replaced with a non ILS flat checkered mainspring housing. I also want a standard 23# mainspring. Anything else i need to mention for ILS removal? |
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Do I need to include this on my SACS order form? Quoted:
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You will need a mainspring cap and mainspring cap pin (the tiny one that retains the mainspring assembly). Do I need to include this on my SACS order form? If you're ordering the parts from Springfield, then yeah, you'll need to specify everything. Their new checkered non-ILS MSHs are pretty nice, but solid MIM if that sort of thing bothers you... |
| I am trying to communicate with SACS reference this same thing, and others. I have found speaking with someone on the phone is impossible and it takes about 7-9 days to get an email answered. And when it is answered, not all questions get answered. Good luck OP and let us know how it turns out. |
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I want them to get rid of the ILS while its there for other things(Armory kote). Should I specify all 4 parts(MSH, mainspring, MS cap, MS cap pin) and write non ILS before all of them? Put in the worksheet: Fit non-ILS flat checkered mainspring housing w/ 23lb mainspring. Don't need to spec components. They know what it takes to do a proper replacement/ |
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I decided to get rid of the ILS crap myself. I ordered these items:
23# mainspring Mainspring cap Mainspring cap pin Mainspring pin retainer I will keep the stock housing. Anything I need to know or watch out for while replacing the parts? I watched a YouTube video(  )so I think I know what to do.
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I decided to get rid of the ILS crap myself. I ordered these items: 23# mainspring Mainspring cap Mainspring cap pin Mainspring pin retainer I will keep the stock housing. Anything I need to know or watch out for while replacing the parts? I watched a YouTube video( )so I think I know what to do.You can use the mainspring pin retainer that is already in your ILS equipped MSH. It's the same. Otherwise, the other three parts are what you need. Why are you replacing it? I ask for several reasons. First, most people that don't like the ILS system claim they don't want an inadvertent ILS lockout. Though I haven't seen one personally, I spoken to several people over the years that claim it's happened to them while shooting. Second, there are those like me that simply don't like the weaker mainspring. Also, it complicates detail stripping. One thing I don't see mentioned much is the sear spring. Springfield severely bends the grip safety leg of the sear spring outward. Most of their guns that I've worked on have the beginnings of stress cracks in the sear spring between the grip safety and trigger legs. I always replace this part because it's cheap insurance. As far as things to look for, there is really no issue if you're not replacing the sear spring or the mainspring housing. If you are going to replace the mainspring housing, make sure your grip safety still swings out and stops at roughly the same point. If your new MSH has a shelf that is further forward, the grip safety may be slightly more depressed in the resting position. You'll want to make sure you still have a functional grip safety. If you put in a new sear spring, make sure it's properly tensioned and that you still have proper sear and disconnector function. |
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I want a standard 23# mainspring and I'm not a fan of locks on guns. Am I okay not replacing the sear spring? I've never had a problem with a Springfield sear spring, but I have noticed they tweak the shit out of the grip safety leg. I completely understand getting rid of the ILS, I did it to my MC Operator and I've deleted it from plenty of Springfields. Since most of the guns I've deleted it from were used for carry/duty, reliability is the top priority. To ensure best ignition reliability I highly recommend an EGW steel firing pin, along with a Wolff standard extra power firing pin spring in conjunction with the 23lb mainspring. Get a .075" pin, chuck it in a hand drill and sand it down with emory cloth until it moves freely in the slide. |
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I've never seen a mainspring retaining pin in an ILS.
You have to replace the mainspring body as well because the lockout interferes with a standard spring and plunger. It's easier to replace the whole thing with new internals...I went 19lb and couldn't be happier. |
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To ensure best ignition reliability I highly recommend an EGW steel firing pin, along with a Wolff standard extra power firing pin spring in conjunction with the 23lb mainspring. Get a .075" pin, chuck it in a hand drill and sand it down with emory cloth until it moves freely in the slide. Quoted:
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I want a standard 23# mainspring and I'm not a fan of locks on guns. Am I okay not replacing the sear spring? To ensure best ignition reliability I highly recommend an EGW steel firing pin, along with a Wolff standard extra power firing pin spring in conjunction with the 23lb mainspring. Get a .075" pin, chuck it in a hand drill and sand it down with emory cloth until it moves freely in the slide. I thought a .075 pin would move freely without sanding? |