Posted: 6/10/2013 4:51:59 PM EDT
|
My 1911 is stovepiping the case, but doesn't jam up or alter the function at all. After I disassembled/reassembled it did it once outta 25 rds. Before when I had just field stripped it, it did it prolly around half the time. I didn't even notice it when I was qualifying CHL until the instructor noticed and picked one up to inspect it. Like I said, doesn't affect function, but I do reload, so it cuts down on my brass. BTW these were brand new rds fired.
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a569/Tapsallthat/IMG_20130610_193336_615_zps3ddc97bd.jpg http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a569/Tapsallthat/IMG_20130610_193232_351_zpscaa4f2d8.jpg |
|
FWIW, a "stovepipe" is a stoppage. The brass will be stuck between the breach face and the barrel and will be sticking part way out. That's a stovepipe. Because it looks like a pipe coming out of stove. Stovepipe.
Yours is just beating your brass senseless. It can happen. But that does look rather aggressive. I'm no expert so I have no clue why. |
|
As above a "stove pipe" stoppage is with the fired case caught by the slide and sticking up out of the ejector port like a stove pipe, with the slide not closed.
What's happening with your gun is the fired case is not being fully ejected and as the slide closes the case is getting "pinched" by the slide as it closes, denting up the case mouth. However, the case is being pushed out of the way and the slide does close. The most likely causes of failure to fully eject are: Ammuntion. Ammo may be under powered. If you're shooting reloads, try some factory full power ammo. A particular batch of hand loads may have a problem, or that particular gun may just not "like" that ammo. Trying factory loads will eliminate the ammo. Extractor. The extractor may be broken or chipped, or has lost tension. If the extractor looses tension a classic symptom is a failure to extract and eject properly. One cause of tension loss is dropping rounds into the chamber and closing the slide. This is hard on extractors and can break them or cause tension loss. First, inspect the extractor for a broken or chipped hook, and the tunnel in the slide for impacted fouling. The slide tunnel does need cleaning from time to time. To test for tension, remove the slide from the frame and remove the barrel from the slide. Turn the slide upside down and slide a LOADED round up under the extractor. Turn the slide right side up and gently shake the slide. The round should remain under the extractor and not just fall out. Ejector. Inspect the ejector for broken or chipped areas, or malformation. Many shorter models have extended ejectors. Make sure any extended ejector is not broken off, or altered by a previous owner. Check the ejector to insure it isn't loose on the frame or can rotate, which indicates a broken ejector pin. Incorrect recoil spring. Recoil spring may be too heavy, preventing proper slide movement. The stock Commander spring is 3/4" shorter then a Government Model, and is a 20 pound spring. For "hard ball" loads over 860 fps, a 22 pound spring is often better. Heavier springs with standard loads will cause ejection problems. Fouled, corroded, or ringed chamber. Inspect the chamber to insure it's really clean, and inspect for corrosion, rings or bulges, or otherwise rough chamber. Obstructed slide. With barrel out, check the slide for free and full slide movement on the frame. If the gun is fitted with a recoil buffer of any type, REMOVE IT. Buffers are well known to cause occasional problems, especially in shorter guns like the Commander. "Limp wristing" Not likely, but some people do have a problem with automatic pistols failing to function properly due to not holding the gun firmly and with a locked wrist. They may be fine with one gun and have problems with another. People often refuse to consider that they may be doing this until shown slow motion video. Have someone else shoot the gun. This will eliminate you as the problem. |