Dug relic 1911 restoration (Pics and Video) (Page 4 of 8)
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Originally Posted By 03rangerxlt:
what are your plans for finishing it (so it doesn't surface rust when its all put back together and running)? I'm going to keep it well greased and not worry about refinishing. if it gets rusty, i'll break out the brass wool and scrub her down again. |
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Originally Posted By AJAX22:
Originally Posted By 03rangerxlt:
what are your plans for finishing it (so it doesn't surface rust when its all put back together and running)? I'm going to keep it well greased and not worry about refinishing. if it gets rusty, i'll break out the brass wool and scrub her down again. I dare you to send it back to Colt and to ask for their Royal Bluing. Tell them you sent it to your local guy and he screwed it up, and it came back looking like that, and could they sharpen up the roll marks please 
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed:
Originally Posted By AJAX22:
Originally Posted By 03rangerxlt:
what are your plans for finishing it (so it doesn't surface rust when its all put back together and running)? I'm going to keep it well greased and not worry about refinishing. if it gets rusty, i'll break out the brass wool and scrub her down again. I dare you to send it back to Colt and to ask for their Royal Bluing. Tell them you sent it to your local guy and he screwed it up, and it came back looking like that, and could they sharpen up the roll marks please
You live up to your user name. 
Fantastic work, OP. |
"Whatever is begun in anger, ends in shame." Benjamin Franklin
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I just ordered some springs, and a set of .45 pistol brushes to use on that barrel.
I also dug a firing pin and plunger out of my random parts bin, I took a pattern file out and knocked the burr out of the plunger channel, so as of right now I can assemble this top end on another frame. I also managed to get the last bushing out of the frame but it did get rather munched in the process.... definitely going to have to replace the grip bushings. I "May" have gotten carried away tapping on the firing pin with the wrong type of punch... and mushroomed it out.... and then took a pattern file to it to grind it flush and am waiting on a set of punches to show up so I can bang on it properly.... I'm going to ignore the firing pin for now (while I wait for the punch set... and instead focus on salvaging the mainspring housing I'm also looking for a ugly 1911 magazine that is somewhat period correct.. I would prefer to get a period correct plunger as well.... but I'm not 100% certain what a period correct plunger looks like... As well as a set of 1911 grips (I have 1911a1 grips, but i kind of like the idea of using old period correct grips) |
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That plunger tube should have the inner workings slide out from front to rear. The safety plunger side is larger than the slide stop plunger side. Get the safety side free first and it should all come out that way. Is the plunger tube staked on firmly? It seems like it should be loose if the crimped legs had been rusted away too much.
The slide stop issue of falling out is disconcerning. The slide stop plunger is threre to force the slide stop into the down position. The magazine follower pushes it up and then the plunger acts as the spring to make it drop again. The slide stop itself is held into the gun by the slide, not that plunger. The rear tab on the slide stop should be taller than the edge of the slide in all areas except the takedown notch. Can the slide stop be pulled out by hand by any means other than lining up the takedown notch? |
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Originally Posted By cbsaf:
That plunger tube should have the inner workings slide out from front to rear. The safety plunger side is larger than the slide stop plunger side. Get the safety side free first and it should all come out that way. Is the plunger tube staked on firmly? It seems like it should be loose if the crimped legs had been rusted away too much. The slide stop issue of falling out is disconcerning. The slide stop plunger is threre to force the slide stop into the down position. The magazine follower pushes it up and then the plunger acts as the spring to make it drop again. The slide stop itself is held into the gun by the slide, not that plunger. The rear tab on the slide stop should be taller than the edge of the slide in all areas except the takedown notch. Can the slide stop be pulled out by hand by any means other than lining up the takedown notch? Yes, the slide stop can be pulled out at any point, I think it may need some metal added to it to make it function properly.. Thankfully the bit that would need to be altered is hidden when the gun is assembled. |
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Originally Posted By AJAX22:
Originally Posted By cbsaf:
That plunger tube should have the inner workings slide out from front to rear. The safety plunger side is larger than the slide stop plunger side. Get the safety side free first and it should all come out that way. Is the plunger tube staked on firmly? It seems like it should be loose if the crimped legs had been rusted away too much. The slide stop issue of falling out is disconcerning. The slide stop plunger is threre to force the slide stop into the down position. The magazine follower pushes it up and then the plunger acts as the spring to make it drop again. The slide stop itself is held into the gun by the slide, not that plunger. The rear tab on the slide stop should be taller than the edge of the slide in all areas except the takedown notch. Can the slide stop be pulled out by hand by any means other than lining up the takedown notch? Yes, the slide stop can be pulled out at any point, I think it may need some metal added to it to make it function properly.. Thankfully the bit that would need to be altered is hidden when the gun is assembled. Does it look like the slide stop or the bottom edge of the slide is the culprit? Does the slide stop from the other blood gun stay in the rusted gun when cycled? It is a non collectable at this point. Just go to Brownells or Midway and buy a new Colt slide stop, plunger tube guts, firing pin, grip bushings, and I would personally get a new barrel link and pin if you have any inclination to fire it. If you want the parts to not stand out, just use some rust remover to thin the blueing. |
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Originally Posted By cbsaf:
Does it look like the slide stop or the bottom edge of the slide is the culprit? Does the slide stop from the other blood gun stay in the rusted gun when cycled? It is a non collectable at this point. Just go to Brownells or Midway and buy a new Colt slide stop, plunger tube guts, firing pin, grip bushings, and I would personally get a new barrel link and pin if you have any inclination to fire it. If you want the parts to not stand out, just use some rust remover to thin the blueing. i'm trying to re-use as many of the original parts as posible... I have a whole sack of USGI spare parts I keep around in my 'random stuff' bin. My initial impression was that the culpret was the slide stop... and I will do a bit of diagnostic work when I get back home to see if I can fix it by swaping the slide stop. I have spare barrel links and pins as well, I just like the challange of trying to use as many of the originals as possible. |
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Just saw your videos about the "new" revolver. Mother of God.  I'd try a new method here: White Vinegar Blueing. It wil turn anything rust into a solid rust blue, instead of revealing all the pitting under that same rust as electolisys does. Look for it on the Web, or just remember to boil the gun ( yeah, exactly ) into a solution 40% White Vinegar, 60% demineralized water. You'll be seeing red rust turn into black Iron Oxide. scrub lightly with a ScotchBrite pad and there's your new finish.
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Originally Posted By AJAX22:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45FgWShlrd4Wooooooooo Got the firing pin retaining plate off and I think It's salvageable... that's great progress. The revolver barrel is coming along well too. Keep it up!
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| Can you see enough of the firing pin to drill & tap a small hole in it? Might be able to thread a small bolt into it and extract it thusly. |
... it's clear we live in an oppressive authoritarian state which does not give the slightest consideration to existing laws or the constitution.
| Worst case scenario you could drill out the remnants of the firing pin and install a hardened insert in the breach face. |
... it's clear we live in an oppressive authoritarian state which does not give the slightest consideration to existing laws or the constitution.
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Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Have you considered soaking it in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with some sort of penetrating oil to get the FP loose? This would probably work really well...fill an ultrasonic tank with ATF/Acetone mixture or something similar and let it run for a while...you can buy them pretty inexpensively these days, even from reloading stores; I know Hornady makes one for cleaning brass or pistols...which is what I use mine for. (And AR BCGs) It's not great for getting ALL the crud off/out but it definitely takes care of the larger chunks and softens everything else up so it'll come off muuuch easier. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
| Is there some reason you are pushing on the extractor? Have you tried putting a leather or metal shim against the back of the slide (opposite from extractor) and trying to pry the extractor out with a screwdriver in the slide stop slot, prying outwards from the rear of the slide leveraging agains the other side of the rear of the slide? |
... it's clear we live in an oppressive authoritarian state which does not give the slightest consideration to existing laws or the constitution.
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Originally Posted By AJAX22:
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpERVZJvYQ0
Extractor is out!!!!!! BAM! kick it up a notch with a blast from your spiceweasle Nice! Yeah, you're gonna need a new extractor
Pick one up from Cylinder & Slide; they're made to original spec, out of spring steel. Should be a direct drop-in replacement for the original one. (Well, minor fitting involved probably, but you get the idea...it's about as original as you'll find short of sourcing one from WWII or earlier) |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
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I don't know why you are having so much trouble getting the slide stop and thumb safeties out of the plunger tube. Grab the safety plunger with a pair of pliers and pull straight back. It should come right out. Then the slide stop plunger needs to go through the tube and come out the same end as the safety plunger.
As far as the mainspring goes, lay the housing on a solid surface upright and place a punch or a phillips screwdriver onto the plunger. It should compress and break free with a little body weight. Then just take a proper punch and drive the mainspring retaining pin out from the external side towards the side that faces inward against the frame. Just know that when you pull the punch out you also need to depress the mainspring or point it at a solid block of wood to keep the mainspring from shooting out of the housing. It should take all of 10 minutes after getting the slide done. The slide was the hard part. |
When things go bump in the night...... I bump back
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EE: 97% (38)
IL, USA
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Finally caught up with this thread. Excellent work! Shouldn't be long before she is shooting
Does anybody make a gun equivalent of bondo? lol.... What would be the best way to refinsh the frame and slide if it is serviceable piece that actually shoots? |
We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.....
George Orwell
George Orwell
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Originally Posted By JPD158:
Finally caught up with this thread. Excellent work! Shouldn't be long before she is shooting
Does anybody make a gun equivalent of bondo? lol.... What would be the best way to refinsh the frame and slide if it is serviceable piece that actually shoots? Just oil it and keep it out of the mud! Hell, if the thing is in good enough condition to shoot, replace what has to be replaced (for function and/or for safety), and leave the rest alone. My opinion only, of course, but I wouldn't do anything to try and make it pretty. That honest "ugliness" is a function of the pistol's history and is what makes it interesting. I've got maybe six or eight 1911s right now (mostly older ones) and if I set them all out on the bench next to this one, which one do you think would generate the most discussion? OP, I salute you. Based on the early pics, I would have written that off and mounted it on a plaque as a conversation piece. I am really pleased to see you bringing it back to life! 
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I think any old AR15 accessory marked with the "Armalite" brand is cool...or AR10 stuff marked "AI"!
You're only making it worse for yourself!
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TN, USA
What a great thread.!! Now...if you were a daring man..you'd get a 9x25 Dillon barrel and bushing, bury it in the dirt for a bit to get it real authentic, then let that blaster loose at 1550fps....what could possibly go wrong???
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Learn the french language by using these two words "we surrender".
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Originally Posted By AJAX22:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpERVZJvYQ0
Extractor is out!!!!!! BAM! kick it up a notch with a blast from your spiceweasle i like the futurama reference 
this is an awesome thread! |
Gotta get me my Boats 'n Hoes.
