Posted: 3/31/2012 8:22:16 AM EDT
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I posted this in refinishing but not getting many views, so I'll ask here. I'm thinking about getting one of my 1911s melonited. What I'm thinking about are the slide, frame, magwell/mainspring housing, safety lever, firing pin stop and slide stop. Maybe barrel and bushing. My concerns are the slide stop and firing pin stop getting too brittle then snapping. Is there concern or is it good to go? |
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i think meloniting is no longer practiced due to a cost and possible epa type issue. flock doesn't use it anymore. that's why glocks are shiny now!
if you're in IL are you close to SA? any's 'smith should be able to refinish your partsin flat black and it will look like melonite. |
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Quoted:
i think meloniting is no longer practiced due to a cost and possible epa type issue. flock doesn't use it anymore. that's why glocks are shiny now! if you're in IL are you close to SA? any's 'smith should be able to refinish your partsin flat black and it will look like melonite. Smith and Wesson would be interested to know meloniting is no longer being used. |
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Costs a little more than your usual Melonite, but worth every penny if you have a more expensive 1911 (DW, LB, EB, etc.):
https://severnscustom.com/Hard_Hat_Treatment.html |
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Quoted:
Melonite is done at too high a temp for many smaller parts as I understand it. IonBond is done at a lower temp. Rodger that. I guess I should have asked what are the smallest pieces that get treated using the Salt Bath Ferritic Nitrocarburizing (melonite, tennifer, whatever S&W calls it). Only reason I ask is I might have line to getting meloniting done on the cheap. Issue is you do all prep work and complete disassembly which I have completed. I know No Go on the firing pin, springs, extractor but that's about all I can confirm 100%. Buddy had Miller Custom do some work and had it finished in melonite and thats what prompted my urge to try it. Test puppy is a Springer that I checkered, trigger undercut and fitted Kart barrel with some trigger upgrade. My first 1911 but I don't think she is worthy of a $200-$300+ treatment |
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I wouldn't Melonite the slide stop, firing pin, firing pin stop, ejector, extractor, hammer strut, hammer, or barrel bushing...the thumb safety is iffy but not really a load bearing part so it should be ok...
I also wouldn't Melonite any of the pins... Actually let's make this real simple - detail strip the frame down to the grip bushings (leave them on), and detail strip the slide leaving the sights on. Those two major assemblies, along with the stripped barrel (no link or pin), are the only parts I'd melonite. 
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Quoted:
I wouldn't Melonite the slide stop, firing pin, firing pin stop, ejector, extractor, hammer strut, hammer, or barrel bushing...the thumb safety is iffy but not really a load bearing part so it should be ok... I also wouldn't Melonite any of the pins... Actually let's make this real simple - detail strip the frame down to the grip bushings (leave them on), and detail strip the slide leaving the sights on. Those two major assemblies, along with the stripped barrel (no link or pin), are the only parts I'd melonite. Yeah didn't even consider the ejector. 
Last time I mess with an ejector I broke a F'in pin and caused more headaches then it was worth. My Springer is old enough to have the ejector pinned instead of loctite. Wish I had it loctited now. Little heat and off she goes.
You guys are helping me walk off the ledge. I got the Cerakote already and parts have been blasted. Maybe just degrease, spray and bake. Oh hand checkering is for chumps. You ever get the urge to hand checker kick yourself in the head and then send it out to get CNC'd instead. Wound up nice but took forever. |