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AR15.COM
2/12/2012 11:13:10 AM EDT
Just looking for anyones thoughts on this:





While firing my 1911, the slide was not moving completely back to the forward position.  I could barely touch it with my thumb, and it would go the extra couple millimeters and the fire.  Put just a small little touch of CLP to help it out but there was no sign off a resistance issue.  Possibly the magazines I was using.  The rounds were feeding fine, but just the slide was rocking forward completely.



Thanks in advance!
2/12/2012 11:17:36 AM EDT
[#1]
How old is the gun and when is the last time you changed the recoil spring?

If I am shooting full power loads I change the recoil spring every 1500 rds on my 4.25" 1911 and every 2K on the 5" 1911.
2/12/2012 11:27:31 AM EDT
[#2]
All the parts are new.  It was build for me by the step dad/his dad duo.  I will look into the specs of the spring!
2/12/2012 11:34:23 AM EDT
[#3]



Quoted:


Just looking for anyones thoughts on this:





While firing my 1911, the slide was not moving completely back to the forward position.  I could barely touch it with my thumb, and it would go the extra couple millimeters and the fire.  Put just a small little touch of CLP to help it out but there was no sign off a resistance issue.  Possibly the magazines I was using.  The rounds were feeding fine, but just the slide was rocking forward completely.



Thanks in advance!


It reads like a weak recoil spring.



 
2/12/2012 11:42:32 AM EDT
[#4]
Factory ammo or reloads?

If reloads try removeing the barrel from the gun and dropping the rounds into the chamber (useing it as a gauge).

I use oil on most of my guns but have always used grease on my 1911 rails.

Brand new build might be a bit tight don't get too excited untill you get a couple hundred rounds through it
2/12/2012 5:46:17 PM EDT
[#5]
Do you have the recoil spring on backwards? I put the recoil spring backwards on my Kimber after I first bough it, and the slide was having issues like that due to the closed end of the recoil spring dragging on the guide rod.
2/12/2012 6:05:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Sounds to me slide stop pin isn't clearing lower lug.

How was lug cut ?


To test theory, remove barrel. Take slide stop, insert pin into barrel link. Now travel the full up, down distance of lug. If it hangs up, there is your problem.
2/12/2012 6:16:27 PM EDT
[#7]
A few things come to mind.

1 -  excessive extractor tension or improper beveling.   Cartridge rims are not fully camming under the extractor hook due to sharp edges or excessive tension.  Sometimes the rounds will even get ahead of the extractor, which means the extractor will then snap over the rim as the slide goes into battery.

2  - barrel bump.  Occurs when lower barrel lugs are not properly relieved for clearance, and the high spots can hang on the barrel lugs.  This will manifest as a hesitation or "ka-chunk" as the slide returns to battery, and will show up as peening on the convex curve below the lug flats.

3- rounds fighting past the slide stop.   Energy of slide return is wasted as the nose of the cartridge has to squeeze up past the slide stop lug.  This shows up as a brass smear on the inside of the slide stop lug.

2/13/2012 7:09:04 AM EDT
[#8]
The one and only time I had this issue, the chamber was a tiny bit tight (on this one 1911 out of 4) for my reloads. If you are shooting reloads, buy a box of Winchester and try again.
2/13/2012 6:28:43 PM EDT
[#9]
A 1911 frankengun my dad and I built did this at first. The slide to frame fit was very tight. After 100-200 rounds it started to loosen up enough to go into battery by itself. Until that I had to "help" it by slightly pushing the slide.

Jim