Posted: 1/31/2012 8:17:52 AM EDT
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What modifications would I need to "lighten" the slide of a 1911
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGhveUOnkvc Todd Jarret makes it look like a glock... at 47 seconds |
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The hammer gets cocked as the slide moves to the rear. The part on the slide that engages the lower face of the hammer is the firing pin retainer. The bottom edge of the retainer must be rolled and polished to minimize friction. The lower portion of the hammer face must also be smoothed and polished. Doing this will make a big difference in the effort necessary to get the slide moving.
As soon as the slide is moving, the disconnector contacts the cam on the bottom of the slide. This, also, can restrict movement of the slide. So, some polishing to the disconnector and bottom of the slide will help ease the force necessary for wracking the pistol. Do not remove material at these locations, rather polish the surfaces only. Then, use a good lubricant to help ease the slide across the disconnector. I like Posness-Warren grease, but there are many good products. Once you have these two camming surfaces cleaned up, changing the mainspring will help make the movement even easier. A lower powered action spring will also help. |
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Quoted: Quoted: 12.5# recoil spring, 17# main spring, and shoot over a million rounds in training. T.J. has been around a little while. What do you recommend for a 1911 with a load of 230grain FMJ? for competitive shooting wise. Key information: That spring combo is fine for lightly loaded ammo... but commonly available commercial loadings, like WWB 45 ball ammo from Walmart, would beat that pistol to shit. I run a Wolff 16.5 lb variable rate recoil spring, and a 23 lb mainspring, in my Colt Combat Elite, when I use the .22LR Colt conversion on it (in .45, I use a 19 lb conventional). Any less, and the slide starts battering the frame and the rear sight's pin starts walking out of its hole. From Wolff's website: http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/COLT/1911%20GOV'T%20PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1 COLT 1911 FACTORY RECOIL SPRING NOTES 1. Factory rating for super .38 & 9mm is 14 Lbs. 2. Factory rating in .40 S&W is 19 Lbs. 3. Factory rating for the Colt .38 Spl. Midrange is 14 Lbs. 4. Factory rating for the Colt Ace .22 conversion is 14 Lbs. |
| As mentioned, the firing pin retainer should be rolled and polished, if for no other reason it contributes to smoothing the cycle/recoil when the slide goes through battery. A good pistol tuner usually does this as a given. I would never lighten a recoil spring to get a slide to slide easier as also mentioned it would beat the s#it out of the gun. I always run stock weight in my guns; too light is abusive to the gun, too heavy and it recoils like a revolver plus it's return is harder. |
| if you are having problerms racking a slide you are doing it wrong- my 120 pound wife has no problem racking a slide with a hardball spring- don't hold it in your hand and just pull back on the slide- push forward with the hand holding the grip while pulling back with the hand holding the slide- it will make it easier!. when starting with an empty gun with no time pressure cock the hammer by hand first |
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Quoted:
if you are having problerms racking a slide you are doing it wrong- my 120 pound wife has no problem racking a slide with a hardball spring- don't hold it in your hand and just pull back on the slide- push forward with the hand holding the grip while pulling back with the hand holding the slide- it will make it easier!. when starting with an empty gun with no time pressure cock the hammer by hand first Something tells me that you didn't watch the video in question to see what OP is talking about. Here's a hint... watching him rack his slide made me go  .
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| Some people used a fine grit compound back in the day when people hard chromed their lowers. It exposed the round molecules of the hard chrome, or something like that, and made the slide feel like it was rolling on ball bearings which made it feel like it had a lighter spring. Not sure if using a compound on slide / rails is done anymore. |
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Quoted:
If you have a nice 1911 with a smooth slide to frame fit it is a lot different from trying to rack a 500 dollar RIA. My springer is pretty slick but will be even better when I get it back. I just bought an SA Champion Operator and I'll admit it has zero miles on it but it is much harder to operate the slide than my new Rock Island. The only pistol I own that is harder to operate is a FN 9mm. I'm a complete newbee to 1911s so I have some learning to do. Getting old and losing some strength doesn't help 
When you say "roll" what does that mean? I love the feel of the Operator but it has the most convoluted method of field stripping of any other pistol I own. The little gizmo SA includes to be used in field stripping flew away last night and I spent a half hour looking for it. I know it's a completely different pistol but I can field strip my Beretta 92 with one hand. |