Posted: 8/8/2009 8:29:12 AM EDT
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About three months I purchased a CZ 75B Omega in 9mm. At the time, I didn't have this in mind, but over the course of me shooting it, after each range trip I decided that I would just not clean it. I almost cleaned it about a week ago, just since it is pretty freaking dirty, but I've decided from here on out that Im not going to clean it until I get a malfunction out of it. The main reason I've decided to do this is because while I trust my life to that gun, I've had people both at the range and on other discussion boars question its reliability in relation to a Glock or 1911. Other than lubing it once after my first range trip, I haven't done any maintenance to it. Just field stripped it a few times to see exactly how dirty it's gotten.
Current Round Count (Numbers before round count separate the outings when I shot): 1) 250 rounds PMC Bronze 17 rounds Blazer 2) 100 rounds WWB 3) 150 rounds reloads from a friend 4) 17 rounds WWB 5) 83 rounds WWB 100 rounds Wolf 6) 150 rounds Cast-Lead reloads from a friend (That shit is dirty) 17 rounds Wolf (to try and blow out some lead )
So it hasn't been a stress test with a thousand rounds in a day, but the gun is pretty damned dirty, and I was surprised I never got a FTF or FTE using lead stuff. I'm done shooting for about a month, since I just had to pay off a $250 speeding ticket which came directly out of my ammo fund, but I'm going to keep purchasing those lead reloads for $7 a box, and hopefully put about 250 through the tube when I visit the farm in about a month. Have yall had any problem with your CZs? If so, I'd like to hear. |
I can't speak for the CZ, but I highly endorse (like that matters ) your method of "torture testing"I did the same thing with my AR-15. I ran almost nothing but shitty wolf for about 1300 rounds over about 10 trips to the range over 8 months without doing a bit of cleaning or oiling to it. It finally started to choke on the wolf JHP ammo at 1300, and then the FMJ about 50 rounds later. Let me tell you, there was carbon buildup that was coming out in chunks. The build-up on the lower part of the feedramps (part on the receiver not the barrel) was the culprit. Honestly, I was impressed because I know that the Wolf shit is roughly 2.5 times as dirty as something like federal, prvi, S&B, winchester etc, that I keep for my zombie stash.
Back to the OP, the true test right now is to shoot something that may have a "light" load, and see if it still cycles the slide and gets a round into battery. Blazer Brass and UMC are famous for not having enough "ooomphf" I'd give those a shot, and if you can get through a box of either, you are GTG. Those lead reloads might be dirty as all hell, but they also tend to push a little harder because the round "seals" to the rifling a little bit better and the reloaders sometimes pack them a little hot. Does your gun's rifling allow the use of lead rounds? I know that glocks and HK that have octagon barrels do not take to lead very well to the point that it is a safety consideration.
Outside of that, CZs tend to be very reliable, but every gun should be tested harshly if you are to trust your life to it. |
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I commend you on doing your own testing to see how reliable/forgiving your CZ is. So many people take OPW for it and from what ive learned from guns, is that they can be individuals.
well i too havent had thousands of rounds thur my guns and CZs, there are particular guns i do shoot more then others. I shoot mostly FMJs thu my autoloaders since i have many of them and dont care to figure out what works and what doesnt. Its just alot easier to grab a ammo can of FMJ and go at it. my CZ85 (first cz) has been flawless except for the broke ambi SL a year or so ago.. i got the gun in the mid 90s and it has probably been shot the most in my 9s, probably this one in the thousands. . i did buy and shoot some HPs (2~300 rounds) thru all of my CZs (the ones i had at the time) and thru my OA K9 (AR in 9mm). i did find that there wasnt any issues with the ammo i had purchased and all of my CZs and the AR ate them all. I will also state that running a mag or 2 thru a gun doesnt really mean alot tho, to me. it just means that , the ammo selected, the guns worked at that time. If they were dirtier or whatnot, it could have affected funtion. I will also note that i do make a habbit of "breaking in" my new toys with Blazer ALuminum. I did have 2 CZs that had hicups with them. A NIB P01 and a LNIB SP01. It was only a couple of FTF/E issues on each gun. after i cleaned/lubed it appears to have gone away, at least for now. but i have also read here and there that CZs can be picky with Blazer Aluminum. Considering my other CZs didnt have a problem, it doesnt really affect how i shoot/use them. just a fyi. i have had issues/breakages with other non CZ guns too. The more your buy the more the law of averages will take affect. |
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Thanks for the approval and commendments yall. Glad to know I live up to ARFcom standards, haha. After hearing the name Blazer twice in two posts, I had this nagging that Ive purchasd something by that name, so I went and checked the safe. I have 33 rounds of Blazer, which means somewhere along the way, I shot 17 rounds of it. Hmm. I would think it would be the 17 rounds of WWB on number 4, but I know that that was WWB. I was out at a friends ranch and let him shoot a mag through it, and I remember him saying that he typically buys the same stuff from Wally World. It would have had to be a range trip, because I always leave myself with 33 rounds (2 mags with 1 chamber), and I guess I forgot about it till now. Anyway, I remember being a little concerned about the plastic spring guide it came with at first, but after this many rounds with a variety of ammo, Im not worried about it anymore. It works, so Im fine with it. And after double checking, CZs are fine to shoot lead out of. I wasn't even aware that octoganal rifling posed a problem for it, but luckily, I don't have to worry about it. EDIT: Got it. I feel dumb. When I bought the gun from the shop they gave me a free box of Blazer ammo. I remember I didn't shoot it till last because I had heard it was underpowered. THATS why I don't remember buying it, and THATS why its been sitting in the back of my safe! |
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Thanks for the approval and commendments yall. Glad to know I live up to ARFcom standards, haha. After hearing the name Blazer twice in two posts, I had this nagging that Ive purchasd something by that name, so I went and checked the safe. I have 33 rounds of Blazer, which means somewhere along the way, I shot 17 rounds of it. Hmm. I would think it would be the 17 rounds of WWB on number 4, but I know that that was WWB. I was out at a friends ranch and let him shoot a mag through it, and I remember him saying that he typically buys the same stuff from Wally World. It would have had to be a range trip, because I always leave myself with 33 rounds (2 mags with 1 chamber), and I guess I forgot about it till now. Anyway, I remember being a little concerned about the plastic spring guide it came with at first, but after this many rounds with a variety of ammo, Im not worried about it anymore. It works, so Im fine with it. And after double checking, CZs are fine to shoot lead out of. I wasn't even aware that octoganal rifling posed a problem for it, but luckily, I don't have to worry about it. EDIT: Got it. I feel dumb. When I bought the gun from the shop they gave me a free box of Blazer ammo. I remember I didn't shoot it till last because I had heard it was underpowered. THATS why I don't remember buying it, and THATS why its been sitting in the back of my safe! CZs have standard groove/lands type rifleing and shooting lead shouldnt be an issue. You should be aware tho that CZs have short lead ins. If youre going to reload or even try new bullets, do a "plunk" test. remove the barrel and drop the cartridge into the chamber. It should make a "plunk" sound. I reloaded some Seirra 125 JHPs and found the book LOA was too long for my CZs. My other 9s, no problem, but i reload for all not one unless for a specific load. IAC, you should always check even factory. Using Blazer is up to you. I will try anything and some of my guns are picky with regards to blazer and some arent. Its something you will have to try/test/decide for yourself. I find that if i can find cheaper ammo, i will shoot more. also, i like to try factory on my NIB guns just to make sure my reloads arent an issue. with regards to the plastic guide rod, i think its cheesy imo. However, i belive there is a place for plastic and if works in the funtion/role, then so be it and i will keep it there until it breaks. I know some people have issues with plastic and MIM and so forth, but there is a place for the mateirals/parts. If mine breaks, i may or may not replace it with a metal version. So far, they have been working just fine. |
I just hope you don't have any trigger bar spring issues...
I really think CZ dropped the ball with the Omega system. I have seen more problem reports from Omega-equipped pistols (both the Omega-B and P07) in the past few months than all of the problems I have ever heard of with standard 75 variants all combined. The standard tigger system is much more robust and reliable, and it can be easily cleaned up - especially if you go to a short-hook Shadow hammer like the Omega-B's come with (or the Custom Shop Competition hammer for even better results). The Omega system is a great deal simpler, but the innards are no longer built like a tank. |
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I just hope you don't have any trigger bar spring issues...
I really think CZ dropped the ball with the Omega system. I have seen more problem reports from Omega-equipped pistols (both the Omega-B and P07) in the past few months than all of the problems I have ever heard of with standard 75 variants all combined. The standard tigger system is much more robust and reliable, and it can be easily cleaned up - especially if you go to a short-hook Shadow hammer like the Omega-B's come with (or the Custom Shop Competition hammer for even better results). The Omega system is a great deal simpler, but the innards are no longer built like a tank. Haven't had any yet, but I have only used the two factory mags it came with so far. If I understand right, CZ fixed that problem with newer versions though. Is there a serial # chart showing the cutofffrom the ones with problems and the newer ones without? |
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Haven't had any yet, but I have only used the two factory mags it came with so far. If I understand right, CZ fixed that problem with newer versions though. Is there a serial # chart showing the cutofffrom the ones with problems and the newer ones without? I'm on the CZ boards regularly, and have not heard of any engineering changes to the Omega system as of yet. This is also not a magazine-related issue, but is specific to the configuration of the trigger system. IMO, the type and placement of the trigger bar spring in the Omega system are fatally flawed. |
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Haven't had any yet, but I have only used the two factory mags it came with so far. If I understand right, CZ fixed that problem with newer versions though. Is there a serial # chart showing the cutofffrom the ones with problems and the newer ones without? I'm on the CZ boards regularly, and have not heard of any engineering changes to the Omega system as of yet. This is also not a magazine-related issue, but is specific to the configuration of the trigger system. IMO, the type and placement of the trigger bar spring in the Omega system are fatally flawed. Ah. I was under the impression that some after market mags with feed lips that extended to high would fuck stuff up, and that CZ fixed that. I dunno, maybe there was just alot of lemons, or I'm lucky? I haven't had and problems yet, so here's to hoping that there's none in my future. |
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Ah. I was under the impression that some after market mags with feed lips that extended to high would fuck stuff up, and that CZ fixed that. I dunno, maybe there was just alot of lemons, or I'm lucky? I haven't had and problems yet, so here's to hoping that there's none in my future. I first thought that my problems were due to using the Mec-Gar mags, which have a different taper profile, but was found to be mistaken, as problems were also observed with use of factory magazines. The Omega system is relatively fragile in comparison to the standard trigger group. Hence, small variations in manufacturing which would not result in problems in a standard 75B variant may cause issues with the Omega. The trigger bar spring is probably the weakest link - it is only held captive by a very short hole in the frame and can contact the magazine on insertion (primarily with the aforementioned Mec-Gars, but it could also potentially happen with factory mags if the spring is the slightest little bit "off" in any way, shape, or form). Compare this to the "traditional" trigger bar spring, which goes all the way around the front of the frame AND is held in place by a screw (the same one used in retaining the magazine catch). BTW, if the spring does get dislodged in any way, the trigger bar will fall out of engagement with the FPB lifter and sear, resulting in a non-functional pistol. |
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Ah. I was under the impression that some after market mags with feed lips that extended to high would fuck stuff up, and that CZ fixed that. I dunno, maybe there was just alot of lemons, or I'm lucky? I haven't had and problems yet, so here's to hoping that there's none in my future. I first thought that my problems were due to using the Mec-Gar mags, which have a different taper profile, but was found to be mistaken, as problems were also observed with use of factory magazines. The Omega system is relatively fragile in comparison to the standard trigger group. Hence, small variations in manufacturing which would not result in problems in a standard 75B variant may cause issues with the Omega. The trigger bar spring is probably the weakest link - it is only held captive by a very short hole in the frame and can contact the magazine on insertion (primarily with the aforementioned Mec-Gars, but it could also potentially happen with factory mags if the spring is the slightest little bit "off" in any way, shape, or form). Compare this to the "traditional" trigger bar spring, which goes all the way around the front of the frame AND is held in place by a screw (the same one used in retaining the magazine catch). BTW, if the spring does get dislodged in any way, the trigger bar will fall out of engagement with the FPB lifter and sear, resulting in a non-functional pistol. How easy or difficult is that problem to fix? |
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How easy or difficult is that problem to fix? As far as I am concerned, it is a flawed system. With mine, nothing would fix the problem at all. - which got so bad that the spring would only remain in place for one or two rounds before becoming dislodged. Sent it back to CZ - they said that they had apparently fixed it, but during subsequent testing the spring broke completely and became irretrievably jammed in the frame, necessitating a complete replacement (this, though - IMO - seems to point to my pistol actually being one of the occassional defective ones). At my request, I recevied a standard 75B in replacement, which has given me zero issues. |
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I'd give those a shot, and if you can get through a box of either, you are GTG. Those lead reloads might be dirty as all hell, but they also tend to push a little harder because the round "seals" to the rifling a little bit better and the reloaders sometimes pack them a little hot. Does your gun's rifling allow the use of lead rounds? I know that glocks and HK that have octagon barrels do not take to lead very well to the point that it is a safety consideration.